Co  ok  * 


LLUNCHEONS 

A  COOK'S   PICTURE   BOOK 


A  SUPPLEMENT  TO  THE 
CENTURY  COOK   BOOK 


BY 


ILLUSTRATED    WITH     OVER 
TWO  HUNDRED  PHOTOGRAPHS 


NEW  YORK 
THE  CENTURY  CO. 

1902 


Copyright,  1902,  by 
THE  CENTURY  Co. 


Published  October,  1002 


THE  DEVINNE  PRESS 


THE  BOOK 

This  book  is  intended  as  a  supplement  to  the  "Century 
Cook  Book,"  hence  no  general  rules  for  cooking  are  given. 

It  is  a  book  of  illustrated  receipts,  a  cook's  picture-book, 
intended  to  be  very  useful  in  the  way  of  suggestion.  It  is 
arranged  so  that  housekeepers  may  more  readily  make  up  a 
menu,  often  a  difficult  task,  or  may  easily  find  new  dishes 
to  vary  the  routine  of  the  daily  fare. 

Instead  of  various  menus,  which  are  impracticable  b'e- 
cause  they  seldom  suit  the  convenience  of  the  moment,  lists 
of  dishes  are  given  which  can  be  quickly  read  over  and  those 
suitable  for  the  occasion  selected.  These  lists  are  placed  at 
the  heads  of  the  sections,  each  section  representing  a  single 
course,  and  each  list  comprising  a  number  of  dishes,  any  one 
of  which  is  suitable  for  that  course. 

The  receipts  will  meet  the  requirements  of  luncheons,  but 
the  majority  of  them  are  equally  appropriate  for  dinner. 

Attention  has  been  given  to  the  garnishing  and  manner  of 
dishing,  in  order  to  make  the  dishes  pleasing  to  the  sight ;  for 
pretty  dishes  are  attractive  and  recommend  themselves,  while 
carelessly  served  ones  are  sometimes  refused  on  account  of 
their  appearance. 

The  illustrated  dishes,  though  apparently  elaborate,  are 
in  fact  quite  simple,  the  pastry-bag  and  tube,  the  use  of 
which  is  easily  acquired,  being  the  means  employed  to  decor- 
ate many  of  them. 

The  illustrations  will  serve  as  suggestions,  and  the  taste  of 
the  cook  will  lead  her  to  use  such  other  combinations  as  are 
suited  to  her  convenience. 


CONTENTS 
CHAPTER  I 

(Pages  1-34) 

LUNCHEONS  FONTAGE  CUPS 

GARNISHING  ANDDISHING      DIFFERENT  WAYS  OFPREPARINGBUTTER 
THE  PASTRY-BAG  MEASURES  AND  TERMS 

ORDER  OF  COURSES 


First  Course 


CHAPTER  II 

(Pages  35-42) 

FRUITS 

OYSTER  AND  CLAM  COCKTAILS 

OYSTERS  AND  CLAMS  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL 

CANAPES 


Second  Course 


CHAPTER  III 

(Pages  43-48) 

SOUPS 


Third  Course 


CHAPTER  IV 

(Pages  49-58) 


EGOS 


Fourth  Course 


CHAPTER  V 

(Pages  59-68) 

SHELL-FISH  LOBSTERS 


FISH 


CHAPTER  VI 

(Pages  69-82) 

Fifth  or  Seventh  Course  ENTREES 


Sixth  Course 


Seventh  Course 


Eighth  Course 


Ninth  Course 


Tenth  Course 


CONTENTS 
CHAPTER  VII 

(Pages  83-106) 

MEATS 

VEGETABLES  AND  CEREALS  USED  AS  VEGETABLES 

CHICKEN 

SAUCES  FOR  MEATS     SWEET  SAUCES 


CHAPTER  VIII 

(Pages  107-111) 

FROZEN  PUNCHES       FRUITS 


CHEESE  DISHES 


CHAPTER  IX 

(Pages  113-131) 

GAME        SALADS       COLD  SERVICE 
SALAD  DRESSINGS 


CHAPTER   X 

(Pages  133-163) 

HOT  DESSERTS  COLD  DESSERTS  PIES  AND  TARTS 


ICES 


CHAPTER   XI 

(Pages  165-171) 


CHAPTER   XII 

(Pages  173-17G) 


Eleventh  Course        FRUITS 


LOAF  CAKES 


CHAPTER  XIII 

(Pages  177-195) 

SMALL  FANCY  CAKES 
CHAPTER  XIV 

(Pages  197-211) 

BREADS 
INDEX 

(Pages  213-223) 


ICINGS 


LUNCHEONS 


ERRATA 

Page  20,  line  16,  for  "gelatines"  read  "galantines." 
Illustration  No.  10,  2,  read  "Pur6e  Sieve";  3,  read  "Fontage  or  Swe- 
dish timbale  irons." 
Page  31,  line  8,  for  "will  rise  and  cover" read  "will  rise  when  put  in  the 

hot  fat  and  cover." 

Page  47,  last  title,  for  "Creamed  Soups"  read  "Cream  Soups." 
Page  71,  4th  line  from  bottom,  for  "  usual"  read  "  original." 
Page  71,  7th  line  from  bottom,  for  "dilute  it"  read  "diluted." 
Page  73,  2d  line  from  bottom,  for  "flour"  read  "water." 
Page  91,  8th  line  from  bottom,  for  "browned" read  "brown." 
Page  119,  for  "  Salads  Nos.  6-7-8-9"  read  "Illustrations  Nos.  94,  95,  96, 

97." 

Page  135,  line  3,  for  "and  moisten"  read  "moistened." 
Page  143,  2d  line  from  bottom,  for  "thick"  read  "whipped." 
Legend  of  illustration  No.  134  read  "  Strawberry  Charlotte  No.  2." 
Legend  of  illustration  No.  137  read  "  Chestnut  Pur6e." 
Page  155,  line  6,  for  "cupful"  read  "pound." 
Page  162,  line  10,  for  "by  placing"  read  "and." 
Page  168,  7th  line  from  bottom,  for  "lemon"  read  "melon." 
Page  169,  to  receipt  for  Lemon  Ice  add,  "  1  quart  of  water." 
Page  170,  line  4,  for  "  cupful"  read  "quart." 
Page  175,  after  title,  "Pineapple,"  add  "Illustration  No.  158." 
Page  184,  5th  line  from  bottom,  for  "icing"  read  "tracing." 
Page  189,  5th  line  from  bottom ,  for  "  box  with  "  read  "  box  and  serve  with ." 
Page  192,  9th  line  from  bottom,  for  "  coloring"  read  "  covering." 
Page  199,  llth line  from  bottom, for  "double  its  bulk "  read  " doubled  in 

bulk." 

Page  201,  8th  line  from  bottom,  for  "one  quarter  of  an  inch"  read  "one 
and  a  quarter  inches." 


CHAPTER  I 
LUNCHEONS 

The  midday  meal,  called  luncheon,  varies  in  char- 
acter from  a  very  informal  service,  where  the  dishes 
are  placed  on  the  table  and  the  servants  leave  the 
room,  to  one  of  equal  elaboration  and  formality  with 
that  of  a  dinner.  As  this  meal  is  made  to  conform 
to  convenience,  it  is  difficult  to  give  general  rules, 
as  rules  are  conventions  of  ceremony,  and  ceremony 
is  sometimes  disregarded,  as  in  the  case  where  a 
larger  number  of  guests  are  received  than  the  service 
of  the  house  admits  of  entertaining  in  other  than 
an  informal  manner. 

Luncheon  proper  corresponds  to  what  in  foreign 
countries  is  called  the  second  breakfast,  or  dejeuner 
a  la  fourcliette,  where  people  are  seated  at  the  table 
and  served  as  at  dinner.  The  French  breakfast  hour, 
however,  is  usually  twelve  o'clock,  while  luncheon 
is  an  hour  or  more  later. 

Entertaining  at  luncheon  is  as  customary  as  din-       The 
ner  giving,  but  ordinarily  the  company  is  composed   comPan 
of  women  alone,  men  as  a  rule  not  being  entertained 
at  this  hour,  except  on  holidays  or  special  occasions. 

A  card  with  the  name  of  the  guest  distinctly  writ-  Seating 
ten  on  it  designates  the  place  at  the  table  to  be  occu-    guests 
pied  by  that  guest,  and  each  one  finds  her  place  with- 
out being  otherwise  directed,  as  the  hostess  is  the 


4  LUNCHEONS 

last  one  to  enter  the  dining-room.  If,  for  any  rea- 
son, one  lady  has  precedence  over  the  others,  she  is 
placed  at  the  right  of  the  hostess ;  otherwise  the  host- 
ess selects  for  that  seat  the  one  whom  she  wishes  par- 
ticularly to  compliment.  If  a  stranger  is  being  es- 
pecially entertained,  the  other  guests  having  been 
invited  to  meet  her,  she  is  given  this  seat  of  honor. 
The  hostess  in  this  case  presents  her  as  a  new  ac- 
quaintance to  her  friends,  who  afterward  may  call 
upon  and  extend  to  her  other  courtesies. 
Inyita-  The  invitations  for  luncheon  are  the  same  in  form 

tions  as  for  dinner;  if  the  luncheon  is  a  formal  enter- 
tainment they  are  usually  written  in  the  third  per- 
son, or  conventionally  expressed  in  the  first  person. 
An  informal  note  is  written  for  informal  occasions. 
Under  no  circumstances  should  a  verbal  invitation 
be  given. 

It  is  polite  to  answer  an  invitation  wdthin  twelve 
hours.  People  who  are  in  the  habit  of  entertaining 
are  seldom  remiss  in  the  courtesy  of  a  prompt  reply, 
for  they  have  probably  experienced  the  inconve- 
nience of  uncertainty,  and  the  embarrassment  of 
having  to  fill  places  at  the  last  minute,  and  so  are 
better  able  to  understand  the  significance  of  this 
social  convention. 

Dress  Women  wear  street  costumes  or  afternoon  gowns ; 
they  lay  off  their  wraps,  but  do  not  remove  their  hats. 
Men  should  wear  afternoon  dress. 

The  table  At  luncheon  a  table-cloth  is  not  used  if  the  table 
is  handsome  enough  to  permit  its  omission,  but  often 
leaves  are  put  in  which  have  not  the  same  polish 
as  the  main  table  and  must  be  covered  with  a  cloth. 
The  use  of  a  cloth  is,  however,  a  matter  of  taste,  not 
of  rule. 


LUNCHEONS  5 

The  polished  table  requites  care  to  keep  it  clean 
and  free  from  stains  and  scratches.  It  should  be 
very  frequently  rubbed  hard  with  a  soft  cloth,  and 
occasionally  a  little  kerosene  or  furniture  polish 
should  be  used;  but  what  is  particularly  needed  is 
plenty  of  hard  rubbing.  A  varnish  polish  is  easily 
defaced,  especially  by  hot  dishes,  which  leave  white 
marks  that  are  difficult  to  eradicate.  The  table  top 
should  have  what  is  called  hand  polish.  This  can  be 
washed  without  injury,  does  not  easily  stain,  heat 
does  not  affect  it,  and  with  daily  care  it  constantly 
grows  handsomer.  It  is  better  for  young  house- 
keepers to  start  with  a  dull  mahogany,  or  oak,  than 
with  a  shellacked  table,  which  needs  frequent 
redressing. 

To  protect  the  table  when  no  table-cloth  is  used,  Hats 
mats  are  placed  under  the  dishes.  The  plate  mats, 
either  square  or  round,  are  seven  to  nine  inches 
across.  Mats  are  sometimes  lined  with  asbestos,  felt, 
or  other  thick  material  to  protect  the  table  better 
from  the  heat  of  the  plates.  The  mats,  as  a  rule, 
match  the  centerpiece,  but  this  is  not  obligatory. 
There  is  no  limit  to  the  variety  of  centerpieces  and 
mats.  They  range  from  crochet  work  and  embroi- 
dered linen  to  beautiful  laces. 

Except  the  mats,  the  decorations  used  are  the  same   Decora- 
as  for  the  dinner-table,  flowers  being  the  chief  and       ons 
always  the  most  beautiful   resource.     The   decora- 
tions should  be  kept  low  in  order  not  to  obstruct  the 
view  across  the  table  and  so  make  general  conver- 
sation impossible. 

A  large  table  is  more  imposing  with  high  center- 
pieces, and  at  buffet  luncheons  high  decorations  can 
be  indulged  in.  The  cold  dishes  used  on  such  occa- 


6  LUNCHEONS 

sions  are  susceptible  of  much  garnishing,  and  are 
made  to  form  a  part  of  the  decoration. 

Where  a  large  number  of  guests  are  being  enter- 
tained, as  at  wedding  breakfasts,  or  where  the  lunch- 
eon is  accessory  to  some  other  entertainment,  the 
guests  are  frequently  seated  at  small  tables  placed 
throughout  the  room.  In  this  case,  no  ornamenta- 
tion is  attempted  other  than  a  few  flowers  on  each 
table,  as  anything  more  would  be  an  inconvenience. 

Lighting  The  lighting  of  the  table  requires  careful  con- 
sideration. Artificial  light  is  not  used  unless  neces- 
sary; but  a  dark,  gloomy  table  should  always  be 
avoided,  and  if  the  room  is  dark  candles  should  be 
lighted.  Sometimes  half  the  guests  face  bright  win- 
dows, while  the  faces  of  those  sitting  with  their 
backs  to  the  windows  are  in  shadow.  Shaded  lights 
in  the  chandelier  will  often  remove  this  shadow ;  and, 
if  carefully  managed,  the  gas-lights  will  not  be  dis- 
agreeably noticeable.  This,  together  with  a  careful 
adjustment  of  the  curtains,  will  often  equalize  the 
light;  but  if  a  blinding  glare  cannot  thus  be  over- 
come, it  is  better  to  draw  the  shades  and  curtains 
and  light  the  candles.  In  city  houses  this  is  fre- 
quently done. 
Laying  The  table  is  laid  as  for  dinner,  except  that  bread- 

the  table  anci-butter  plates  are  placed  at  the  left  of  the  dinner 
plates,  each  bread-and-butter  plate  having  a  small 
knife  laid  across  it.  These  plates  are  small,  and  are 
used  for  the  breads  and  hors  d'oeuvres. 

The  food       At  luncheon  the  soup  is  served  in  cups,  and,  where 

courses    the  guests  are  seated  at  the  table,  roasts  are  seldom 

presented,   the  meats  being  served   in  the  form  of 

chops,  or  individual  portions;  otherwise,  the  service 

is  the  same  as  at  dinner. 


LUNCHEONS  7 

At  buffet  luncheons  large  cold  roasts  are  used,  and 
ordinarily  not  more  than  one  or  two  hot  dishes  are 
served,  such  as  bouillon,  creamed  oysters,  or'  cro- 
quettes. Cold  fish,  cold  joints,  gelatines,  and  salads 
make  the  substantial  part  of  the  luncheon.  All  the 
dishes,  including  the  ices,  are  placed  on  the  buffet 
table  at  once,  and  no  order  is  observed  in  respect  to 
courses,  each  person  making  his  own  selection.  On 
these  occasions  the  gentlemen  serve  the  ladies,  and 
but  little  extra  household  service  is  needed. 

Where  the  guests  are  seated  at  small  tables  the 
service  is  the  same  as  if  all  were  seated  at  one  table, 
and  a  number  of  servants  are  required.  There 
should  always  be  enough  waiters  to  serve  the  meal 
quickly.  An  hour  and  a  half  is  the  extreme  limit 
of  time  that  guests  should  be  kept  at  the  table. 
Seven  or  eight  courses  are  all  that  should  be  pre- 
sented, and  these  should  be  served  quickly,  but  with- 
out apparent  haste.  The  days  of  long  feasting  are 
passed.  People  of  to-day  value  their  health  and 
time  too  much  to  sit  for  hours  at  a  time  at  the  table. 
The  meal  should  be  over  before  there  is  any  fatigue 
or  dullness ;  but  on  the  word  of  Brillat-Savarin,  an 
accepted  authority  on  gastronomic  subjects,  it  is  safe 
to  detain  guests  at  the  table  for  one  hour.  He  says : 

"La  table  est  le  seul  endroit  ou  1'on  ne  s'ennuie 
jamais  pendant  la  premiere  heure. " 


GARNISHING  AND  DISHING 

MEATS 

One  celebrated  French  chef  says :  "  II  f aut  viser  a 
charmer  les  yeux  des  gourmet  avant  d'en  satisfaire 


8  LUNCHEONS 

le  gout";  and  another,  in  giving  advice  to  begin- 
ners, says:  "A  cook  should  have  that  artistic  feeling 
which  imparts  to  everything,  great  and  small,  that 
harmony  of  style  which  captivates  the  eye. ' ' 

This  necessity  is  well  recognized  by  every  good 
cook,  and  such  a  one  tries  to  give  dishes  the  inviting 
appearance  justly  demanded  by  epicures.  It  is  not 
necessary  that  the  dish  belong  to  the  category  which 
in  cooking  parlance  is  termed  "high  class,"  for  the 
simplest  one  comes  under  the  same  rule  and  is  capa- 
ble of  being  raised  to  a  higher  rank  by  careful  dish- 
ing and  tasteful  garnishing.  The  greatest  cooks  are 
renowned  for  such  specialties. 

It  is  said  of  Soyer,  ' '  for  dishing  up  he  was  entitled 
to  celebrity ' ' ;  and  of  Careme,  ' '  he  excelled  in  every- 
thing requiring  perfect  taste,  and  dealt  in  a  new 
and  very  effective  manner  with  the  ornamentation 
of  large  cold  dishes." 

There  is  nothing  which  so  quickly  indicates  the 
grade  of  the  cook  as  the  manner  in  which  she  serves 
her  dishes.  One  who  has  no  pride  in  her  work  seldom 
takes  time  for  ornamentation,  though  garnishing  is 
the  simplest  part  of  her  duty.  When,  however,  at- 
tention is  given  to  this  branch,  even  though  the  result 
may  not  be  perfect,  it  gives  promise  of  better  things, 
and  one  may  confidently  predict  for  the  cook  who 
thus  shows  desire  to  do  well  that  she  will  attain  a 
higher  degree  of  excellence  in  her  profession.  There 
is  no  class  of  dishes,  from  breads  to  desserts,  which 
are  not  more  appetizing  when  made  attractive  in  ap- 
pearance. It  has  been  said  that  "eyes  do  half  the 
eating,"  and  as  no  expense  need  be  incurred  in  the 
indulgence  of  tasteful  arrangement  of  the  dishes, 
there  seems  to  be  no  reason  why  the  simplest  table 


LUNCHEONS  9 

should  not  share  with  the  most  expensive  one  this 
element  of  success.  Care,  taste,  and  ingenuity  will 
do  much  to  remedy  the  lack  of  money,  and  may 
change  the  standard  of  the  table  from  coarseness  to 
refinement.  Many  suggestions  for  decorations  may 
be  found  in  the  show-windows  of  bakers,  pastry- 
cooks, fishmongers,  and  of  delicatessen  shops.  Many 
of  the  pieces  displayed  there  may  seem  elaborate  and 
difficult  to  the  novice,  but  they  are,  in  reality,  simple 
enough  when  the  use  of  materials  is  understood. 

The  word  garnishing  is  used  here  in  a  broad  inter- 
pretation of  the  term,  meaning  the  general  ornamen- 
tation of  dishes,  whether  it  be  obtained  by  form, 
color,  dishing,  or  by  dressing  them  with  those  articles 
called  garnishes. 

For  example,  beginning  with  breads,  embellish- 
ment is  accomplished  by  means  of  form  and  color. 
The  form  is  gained  by  molding  and  cutting;  the 
color,  by  glazing  -with  egg  or  sugar.  A  universal 
expedient,  when  short  of  bread,  is  the  soda  biscuit. 
These  biscuits,  when  cut  in  very  small  rounds  of 
uniform  size,  will  tempt  the  scoffer  of  hot  breads; 
while  large  or  small  crusty  rolls,  all  of  exactly  the 
same  size,  and  baked  a  golden  color,  will  also  make 
him  forget  his  prejudices  and  find  excuse  in  the 
delicious  crust  for  eating  them.  But  these  same 
biscuits  carelessly  cut  or  molded  or  baked  would 
offer  him  no  excuse  for  inviting  dyspepsia.  Toast 
looks  more  inviting  when  cut  into  strips  or  triangles, 
or  with  the  corners  neatly  cut  off  if  served  in  whole 
slices.  Any  little  thing  which  indicates  care  on  the 
part  of  the  cook  recommends  the  dish  to  favor  and 
almost  guarantees  its  excellence— on  the  principle 
that  straws  show  which  way  the  wind  blows. 


10  LUNCHEONS 

For  soups,  there  is  to  be  found,  in  any  cook  book, 
a  long  list  of  garnishes  which  may  be  used.  Cer- 
tainly a  clear  soup  is  more  beautiful  when  a  few 
green  peas  or  a  few  bits  of  celery  increase  its  bril- 
liancy; a  cream  soup  is  greatly  improved  by  a  few 
small  croutons ;  and  so  on  through  the  various  classes 
of  dishes. 

The  garnishes  for  meat  dishes  are  so  various,  it 
may  be  said  that  their  only  limit  is  the  ingenuity 
and  resources  of  the  cook. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  dishes  which  are 
served  hot  do  not  permit  of  as  much  garnishing  as 
cold  ones.  The  first  requisite  in  the  former  is  heat, 
and  this  must  not  be  lost  by  time  given  to  elaborate 
garnishing.  It  does  not,  however,  exclude  them  from 
the  privilege  of  being  embellished;  for  if  the  gar- 
nishes are  prepared  and  ready  at  hand,  it  takes  but 
a  minute  to  put  them  in  place.  Hot  meat  dishes  can 
also  rely  on  other  things  to  improve  their  appear- 
ance, such  as  shapeliness  and  uniformity;  therefore, 
strict  attention  should  be  given  to  the  cutting  and 
trimming  of  meats,  to  the  molding  of  croquettes, 
of  meat-balls,  or  of  anything  served  in  pieces,  and 
also  to  the  dishing  of  the  same. 

After  meat  is  well  cut,  if  a  joint,  it  should  be  di- 
vested of  all  points  and  irregularities,  and  of  car- 
tilage which  will  interfere  with  the  carving,  and 
then  should  be  trimmed  into  a  well-balanced  and 
symmetrical  form,  attention  being  given  to  the  mat- 
ter of  its  standing  squarely  and  solidly  upon  the 
platter. 

Chops  and  cutlets  should  be  trimmed  into  uni- 
form size  and  shape.  This  can  be  done  without 
waste,  as  the  trimmings  have  their  uses.  Careful 


LUNCHEONS  11 

dressing  and  trussing  is  essential  for  poultry,  as  the 
appearance  of  an  untrussed  fowl  is  enough  to  de- 
stroy the  appetite  and  condemn  the  dinner.  A  fowl 
should  be  pressed  into  a  rounded  and  smooth  surface 
in  order  to  dissociate  the  article  served  from  the 
thing  of  life. 

Meat  should  be  placed  exactly  in  the  center  of  the 
platter,  except  in  certain  instances  where  studied 
irregularity  is  given  for  special  garnishing.  To  place 
chops  or  cutlets  neatly  overlapping  one  another, 
either  in  rows  or  in  a  circle,  requires  some  dexterity, 
perhaps,  but  this  is  acquired  by  a  very  little  prac- 
tice, and  such  an  arrangement  not  only  helps  to  keep 
the  meats  hot,  but  is  in  itself  ornamental.  The 
platter  should  be  in  right  proportion  to  the  article 
served  upon  it.  A  large  joint  on  too  small  a  platter 
gives  the  same  sense  of  unsuitableness  that  an  out- 
grown garment  gives  to  a  boy  or  a  girl,  and  the  carv- 
ing of  this  seemingly  overgrown  joint  usually  results 
in  accidents  to  the  table-cloth.  Again,  too  small  a 
platter  affords  no  room  for  garnishing. 

The  color  given  meat  in  cooking  may  be  called 
its  secondary  garnish,  space  being  the  first.  Care 
should  be  taken,  if  it  is  roasted,  that  it  be  well 
browned ;  if  it  is  boiled,  that  it  be  white  and  clean- 
looking;  if  it  is  fried,  that  it  be  not  blackened,  but 
a  clear  lemon  color.  Poultry  should  have  a  golden 
color  that  suggests  crispness.  It  is  difficult  to  make 
the  mediocre  cook  understand  these  points. 

Larding  also  serves  an  ornamental  purpose.  Dry 
meats,  like  veal,  and  oftentimes  fowls,  are  im- 
proved in  flavor  by  being  larded ;  and  it  should  be  so 
done  as  to  make  it  an  ornamental  feature.  There  is 
no  part  in  the  preparation  of  dishes  easier  to  per- 


12  LUNCHEONS 

form  than  larding,  and  no  novice  need  hesitate  to 
undertake  it. 

Hashes  and  minces  can,  with  very  little  trouble, 
be  made  attractive  in  appearance  as  well  as  in  taste. 
Hash  pressed  into  a  mold,  giving  it  a  ring  or  a  dome 
shape,  then  masked  or  not  with  a  sauce,  or  simply 
turned  upon  a  platter,  can  be  prettily  garnished 
with  eggs  and  greens.  Plain  meat-balls  and  potato- 
or  hominy-balls  can  be  placed  together  on  a  platter 
with  such  regard  to  effect  that  the  dish  assumes  the 
character  of  an  entree,  instead  of  appearing  like  a 
makeshift  from  left-over  pieces. 

The  next  means  after  larding  in  what  may  be 
called  natural  garnishing  is  in  the  employment  of 
gravies  and  sauces.  No  article  should  ever  swim 
in  sauce,  but  a  little  can  be  used  with  good  effect  on 
many  dishes.  A  venison  steak  wet  with  a  currant 
jelly  sauce,  and  just  enough  of  the  sauce  poured 
on  the  bottom  of  the  platter  to  color  it,  gives  a  glaze 
and  juicy  look  to  the  steak  which  improves  its  ap- 
pearance. A  very  little  tomato  sauce  under  breaded 
veal  chops  or  croquettes  gives  color  and  emphasis 
to  the  dish.  White  sauce  poured  over  boiled  dishes 
gives  greater  whiteness  and  often  covers  defects.  In 
French  cooking,  much  use  is  made  of  masking, 
which  is  often  done  by  glazing  and  by  the  use  of 
sauces.  As  white  sauces  will  make  white  foods 
whiter,  so  brown  ones  will  make  brown  ones  browner. 
Fitness  must  of  course  be  observed.  If  crispness  is 
a  part  of  the  excellence  of  a  dish,  it  would  not  do  to 
destroy  that  quality  by  using  a  moistening  garnish. 

Vegetables  as  garnishes  come  next  in  order  of 
suitableness  and  convenience.  When  vegetables  are 
placed  on  the  same  platter  with  meats,  they  not  only 


LUNCHEONS  13 

ornament  the  dish,  but  contribute  to  the  ease  of 
serving  a  dinner.  When  they  are  used  the  dish  is 
called  a  la  jardiniere  or  a  la  printaniere.  Probably 
every  cook  knows  how  to  serve  mashed  or  fried  pota- 
toes or  green  peas  in  the  center  of  a  circle  of  chops. 
Similar  combinations  can  be  made  in  various  ways 
and  of  many  things.  Spinach,  beans,  carrots,  purees, 
macaroni,  spaghetti,  or  rice  may  be  placed  so  as  to 
form  a  base,  raising  the  chops  like  a  crown,  or 
grouped  with  them  in  rows,  or  alternating  with  the 
individual  pieces.  Macedoine  is  a  mixture  of  any 
number  of  vegetables,  such  as  peas,  beans  of  various 
kinds,  carrot  and  turnip  balls,  flowers  of  cauliflower 
and  any  other  vegetable  obtainable.  They  may  be 
mixed  together,  or  each  vegetable  may  be  kept  dis- 
tinct and  placed  in  small  piles  around  the  platter. 
Small  portions  of  vegetables  left  over  may  be  used  to 
advantage  in  this  way.  Very  little  need  be  used  of 
any  one,  and  any  number  may  be  combined  on  the 
same  dish.  Potatoes  boiled  or  fried  can  be  prepared 
in  many  fancy  ways  to  make  them  suitable  for  gar- 
nishing. Well-seasoned  spinach  is  excellent  with 
chops,  steaks,  or  roasts.  Browned  onions  are  often 
used.  Meats  with  onion  garnishes  make  dishes  called 
a  la  soubise.  Brussels  sprouts,  hot,  are  a  suitable  gar- 
nish for  corned  beef ;  or  cold,  with  a  French  dressing, 
are  an  excellent  salad  to  serve  with  cold  beef.  They 
should  not  be  over-cooked  or  they  will  lose  their 
shape.  Stuffed  tomatoes  may  be  used  with  almost 
any  meat  dish. 

Vegetable  puree,  in  fancy  form,  is  useful  for  em- 
bellishment, and  may  take  the  place  of  a  fresh  vege- 
table. Puree  is  made  of  any  vegetable  mashed  and 
seasoned  in  the  same  manner  as  potato.  Navy  beans, 


14  LUNCHEONS 

lima  beans,  flageolets,  and  peas,  either  fresh  or  dried, 
are  so  used.  The  puree  can  be  pressed  through  a 
pastry-bag  into  forms  simulating  roses,  or  placed  in 
piles  on  rounds  of  toast.  Vegetables  intended  to  be 
eaten  with  the  meats  they  garnish  should  be  well 
seasoned  before  being  placed  on  the  platter;  but 
where  they  are  to  serve  only  an  ornamental  pur- 
pose, they  may  sometimes,  as  in  the  case  of  carrots 
and  turnips,  be  used  uncooked,  as  they  have  a  better 
color  and  more  firmness  when  raw.  These  two  vege- 
tables are  very  useful,  as  they  are  obtainable  all 
the  year  round.  Carrots  are  particularly  pretty 
when  small.  Large  ones  sliced  and  then  stamped  into 
fancy  shapes,  combined  with  turnips  treated  in  the 
same  way,  are  frequently  used  for  making  designs. 
Sometimes  they  are  cut  into  balls,  sometimes  are 
carved  into  forms  simulating  roses.  It  is  easy  to 
make  them  into  cups,  using  a  fluted  knife  to  shape 
the  outside,  and  hollowing  the  center  with  a  potato- 
scoop.  These  cups  are  good  for  holding  any  vege- 
table or  for  vegetable  salads. 

Rice  is  generally  used  for  borders  which  are  in- 
tended to  keep  creamed  dishes  and  fricassees  in 
shape.  Sausages  cut  in  halves  or  quarters,  or  fried 
bacon,  make  a  good  relish  as  well  as  a  garnish  for 
many  meats;  they  are  particularly  good  with  egg 
dishes.  Paper  frills  on  protruding  bones  serve  the 
excellent  purpose  of  concealing  these  unsightly  ends. 
They  are  easily  made  by  folding  a  strip  of  paper 
lengthwise,  then  cutting  it  down  about  one  and 
a  half  inches  at  intervals  of  one-eighth  inch  on  the 
folded  side,  thus  making  a  double  fringe;  next  slip 
one  side  up  a  little,  making  the  fringe  round  out; 
and,  finally,  roll  this  around  a  stick,  leaving  the 


LUNCHEONS  15 

openwork  in  a  close  spiral.  These  frills  are  used  on 
the  bones  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  on  ham,  on  chops,  and 
on  drumsticks. 

The  green  garnishes  are  parsley,  watercress,  small 
crisp  lettuce  leaves,  green  lettuce  cut  into  ribbons, 
chicory,  and  celery  tops.  These  are  all  edible,  and 
all  have  places  where  they  are  especially  appropriate. 
Parsley,  which  is  most  commonly  used,  is  preem- 
inent for  convenience,  beauty  of  leaf,  and  freshness. 
In  many  cases,  however,  greens  which  can  be  eaten 
with  the  dish  are  preferable,  such  as  watercress  with 
broiled  or  fried  meats  or  fish.  Parsley  may  be  used 
with  almost  everything  in  its  purely  ornamental 
function,  but  it  can  be  chopped  and  sprinkled  over 
foods  for  both  its  flavoring  and  decorative  qualities. 
A  woman  who  has  mastered  the  art  of  making  an 
omelet  will  usually  give  it  this  finishing  touch. 
Parsley  should  be  very  green  and  crisp,  well  washed, 
and  dried  with  a  cloth  before  being  used;  it  may 
then  be  broken  into  sprigs  and  placed  at  intervals, 
or  formed  into  a  wreath.  Sometimes  a  large  bunch, 
like  a  bouquet,  may  be  used  with  good  effect. 

Lemons,  like  parsley,  have  convenience  to  recom- 
mend them,  and,  like  watercress,  are  acceptable  with 
fried  meats.  The  acid  of  lemon  is  the  best  condiment 
for  veal.  When  they  serve  the  double  purpose  of 
garnish  and  condiment,  they  should  be  cut  so  the 
pieces  can  be  taken  in  the  hand  and  pressed  with- 
out soiling  the  fingers.  This  is  effected  by  cutting 
them  in  quarters  lengthwise,  or  in  halves  and  then 
in  quarters.  In  some  instances  a  half  lemon  is  not 
too  much  to  serve  with  one  portion,  but  ordinarily 
quarters  are  sufficient.  Slices  are  useless  with  meats, 
except  as  ornaments.  Illustration  No.  1  shows  a 


16  LUNCHEONS 

lemon  ready  to  be  sliced.  It  has  been  channeled  so 
as  to  give  the  notched  edges  which  make  the  slices 
more  ornamental.  The  illustration  also  shows  a 
lemon  made  to  simulate  a  pig.  This  form  can  be 
used  with  propriety  on  a  ham  or  pork  dish.  The 
ears  are  formed  by  cutting  and  raising  a  triangular 
slice  on  each  side  of  the  pointed  end,  the  eyes  are 
made  of  cloves,  the  legs  and  tail  of  wooden  tooth- 
picks. 

Hard-boiled  eggs  ornament  in  a  variety  of  ways. 
They  should  be  boiled  very  hard,  then  cut  with  a 
thin,  sharp  knife  so  the  slices  will  be  smooth  and  the 
edges  clean.  Illustration  No.  2  shows  plain  slices, 
rings  made  by  slipping  the  yolk  out  of  slices,  an 
egg  cut  into  quarters  and  eighths,  a  whole  yolk  set 
into  a  ring,  and  a  stuffed  egg.  Yolks  pressed  through 
a  colander  and  sprinkled  over  creamed  meat  and  fish 
dishes,  cream  toast,  and  some  other  dishes  make  a 
beautiful  golden  covering.  Chopped  whites  in  con- 
junction with  crumbed  yolks  are  used  for  tracing 
designs  over  salads,  minces,  and  cold  pieces. 

Pickled  beets  are  a  useful  and  effective  garnish. 
The  color  gives  decided  contrast,  and  the  flavor  is 
a  good  relish.  Sliced  beets  can  be  stamped  with 
vegetable-cutters  into  fancy  shapes,  or  cut  with  a 
knife  into  diamonds,  cubes,  or  strips.  One  can  easily 
have  them  always  at  hand.  Two  or  three  boiled  beets 
sliced  thin  and  put  into  vinegar  will  last  until  all  are 
used,  and  should  be  among  the  stores  in  the  dresser 
awaiting  the  convenience  of  the  cook.  Cucumber 
pickles  and  gherkins  are  equally  useful  in  point  of 
color  effects,  and  in  giving  piquancy  to  many  foods. 
They  are  used  in  slices  stamped  into  fancy  shapes,  or 
chopped  and  arranged  in  lines  or  in  little  heaps. 
Gherkins  are  usually  left  whole,  but  may  be  sliced, 


NO.   1.      LEMONS  COT  FOR  GARNISHES. 


NO.  2.     EGGS  CUT  FOB  GARNISHES. 


No.   3.      GARNISHES. 

1.  A  carrot  cut  into  cup  shape  with  a  fluted  knife  and  filled  with  tomato. 

2.  A  lemon  cut    into  basket  shape,  the  center   covered  with  chopped 

parsley. 

3.  A  turnip  cut  into  cup  shape  with  fluted  knife  and  filled  with  green 

peas. 

4.  A  carrot  cup  holding  parsley. 

5.  Graduated  slices  of  carrot  holding  a  sprig  of  parsley, 
(i.  Olives. 

7.  Strips  of  the  white  of  a  hard  boiled  egg  arranged  in  a  circle,  the  whole 

yolk  placed  in  the  center.  The  white  is  cut  lengthwise  of  the  egg,  the 
strips  pointed  at  the  ends  and  sliced  so  they  will  lie  flat.  A  small 
slice  is  taken  off  the  yolk  to  make  it  stand  firm. 

8.  Cranberries. 

',».  Slices  of  celery  that  are  crescent  shaped. 

10.  .Sliced  pickled  beet  stamped  into  various  shapes. 

11.  A  gherkin  sliced  nearly  to  the  end,  the  slices  then  spread  out  to  re- 

semble a  leaf. 

12.  Chopped  pickled  beet. 

13.  A  bottle  of  capers. 

14.  Aspic  jelly  cut  iiito  triangular,   square,  and  diamond   shaped  pieces 

and  into  small  dice. 

On  the  front  edge  of  the  board  are  three  pieces  of  chicken  aspic  which  is 
so  transparent  that  the  pattern  of  The  paper  shows  through  it. 


LUNCHEONS  17 

giving  buttons  of  color.  Capers  and  olives  complete 
the  list  of  condiment  garnishes,  though  any  pickle 
may  be  used  with  propriety  on  cold  meat  dishes. 
Illustration  No.  3  shows  various  garnishes  as  ex- 
plained in  legend. 

Croutons  are  an  indispensable  part  of  hot  minced 
meat  dishes,  creamed  mixtures,  and  eggs  cooked  in 
various  ways.  They  serve  also  to  ornament  these 
dishes,  which  especially  require  garnishing  to  make 
them  presentable.  Croutons  are  pieces  of  bread 
browned  in  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  or  moistened  with 
butter  and  browned  in  the  oven.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  cut  them  exactly,  the  shape  depending  on 
the  dish  with  which  they  are  to  be  used.  For  soups 
they  should  be  quarter-inch  cubes ;  for  minced  meats, 
triangles  more  or  less  acute.  Circles,  squares,  and 
strips  also  have  their  places.  The  color  should  be 
light  golden,  not  dark  brown ;  the  latter  color  betrays 
inexperience  or  carelessness. 

Fontage  cups  holding  vegetables  are  useful  for 
garnishing. 

The  articles  in  the  following  list  are  used  for  gar- 
nishing meats: 

Parsley  Fancy  skewers 

Lettuce  Paper  frills 

Watercress  Vegetables 

Chicory  Mushrooms 

Hard-boiled  eggs  Macaroni 

Lemons  Spaghetti 

•  Pickles  Eice 

Capers  Potato  or  puree  forms 

Olives  Sauces 

Beets  Sausages 

Croutons  Bacon 


18  LUNCHEONS 

A  cook  who  has  a  desire  to  ornament  her  dishes  can 
make  an  infinite  variety  of  garnishings  by  combin- 
ing various  things,  or  by  changing  the  form  and  ar- 
rangement of  any  one  of  them.  Most  of  the  articles 
used  are  within  the  reach  of  all.  It  is  even  not 
necessary  to  buy  articles  especially  for  this  purpose, 
for  odds  and  ends  left  over,  or  those  standard  stores 
always  in  the  larder,  will  afford  enough  material 
tastefully  to  ornament  the  dishes. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  decorations  should 
not  be  such  as  will  embarrass  the  carver. 


VEGETABLES 

With  very  few  exceptions,  vegetables  should  be 
served  au  naturel.  Meats  require  all  the  aids  of  skil- 
ful handling  and  tasteful  adornment.  Vegetables, 
on  the  contrary,  have  great  beauty  in  themselves, 
and  the  art  of  the  cook  cannot  rival  that  of  nature. 
Therefore  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  so  arranged  as  to 
give  a  finish  to  the  dish  are  ordinarily  sufficient  gar- 
nishing. In  those  cases,  however,  where  the  vege- 
(tables  lose  form  and  color  in  cooking,  the  skill  of  the 
cook  may  be  employed  to  restore  these  qualities  as 
far  as  possible.  The  more  a  cabbage  can  be  made  to 
look  like  itself,  the  more  attractive  it  will  be.  This,  at 
first  thought,  may  seem  a  difficult  thing  to  do,  but  the 
boiled  vegetable  can  easily  be  placed  in  a  cup  made 
of  the  outside  green  leaves  of  the  cabbage,  and  so, 
in  a  measure,  present  its  own  beautiful  form  and 
color.  Illustration  No.  4  shows  a  plain  boiled  cab- 
bage mixed  with  a  white  sauce  and  so  arranged. 

The  color  of  this  vegetable  in  its  natural  state  ap- 
peals to  the  esthetic  sense  of  every  artist,  and  many 


NO.  4.     SAVOY  CABBAGE    LEAVES  HOLDING  CKEAMED  BOILED  CABBAGE. 


XO.  5.      SPIXACH   GAUXISHED   WITH    WHITE  OF   HARD  15OILED   K(iG    AND  CHOUTONS. 


XI).   fi.      ASl'IC   OF   GREEX   PEAS. 


LUNCHEONS  19 

a  beautiful  picture  has  been  made  of  a  field  of  cab- 
bages ;  yet  the  farmer  who  sees  a  man  sit  down  with 
canvas  and  brush  before  his  cabbage  patch  usually 
regards  him  as  a  crank,  for  to  his  untutored  mind 
cabbages  are  associated  only  with  their  utility. 
Many  housekeepers  are  equally  mistaken  in  their 
views  about  this  vegetable,  and  consider  it  coarse 
food  fit  to  serve  only  garnished  with  apologies.  Such 
opinions  are  based  on  error,  however,  for  the  cab- 
bage is  both  beautiful  to  look  at  and  delicious  to  eat. 
There  are  many  receipts  for  cooking  cabbage  which 
make  it  as  delicate  a  dish  as  cauliflower. 

In  the  case  of  spinach,  since  the  form  cannot  be 
preserved,  recourse  is  had  to  molding ;  the  color  also 
ma}'  be  heightened  by  contrast  with  other  colors. 
Illustration  No.  5  shows  spinach  molded  by  being 
pressed  into  a  basin  decorated  with  the  whites  of 
hard-boiled  eggs,  and  with  croutons  placed  around 
the  form  after  it  is  unmolded.  Both  the  eggs  and  the 
croutons  improve  the  taste  of  the  spinach.  The 
basin  was  first  buttered  to  hold  the  egg  in  place  while 
the  design  was  being  arranged.  Crumbed  yolk  of 
hard-boiled  egg  sprinkled  over  spinach  is  another 
garnishing  for  this  vegetable  which  enhances  its 
green  color  and  gives  the  dish  a  better  appearance. 

There  are  many  ways  of  cooking  any  vegetable. 
These  various  ways  may  serve  for  change,  but  few 
of  them  are  better  than  the  simple  one  of  boiling 
and  serving  with  a  suitable  sauce.  Attention  should 
be  given  to  dishing  vegetables  so  that  there  is  no  ap- 
pearance of  their  having  been  turned  carelessly  on 
to  the  platter.  A  neatly  folded  napkin  can  be  used 
under  dry,  unseasoned  vegetables,  like  asparagus, 
artichokes,  or  corn.  The  napkin  gives  daintiness  to 


20  LUNCHEONS 

the  dish,  and  in  the  case  of  corn,  when  folded  over 
it,  helps  to  keep  it  hot. 

COLD  DISHES 

It  has  been  said  above  that  discrimination  should 
be  made  in  garnishing  dishes ;  those  to  be  served  hot, 
for  instance,  should  go  directly  from  the  fire  to  the 
table,  and  not  be  allowed  to  become  cool  while  being 
elaborately  garnished ;  on  the  other  hand,  cold  dishes 
demand  no  haste  and  permit  of  so  much  elaboration 
that  at  suppers  and  buffet  luncheons  they  are /de- 
pended upon  largely  for  table  decoration. 

The  accomplished  cook  considers  the  work  on  cold 
pieces  an  opportunity  for  giving  examples  of  his 
skill,  and  the  ornamentation  of  molds  and  chaud- 
froids  a  kind  of  fancy  work  which  requires  nicety 
and  taste.  Under  the  head  of  cold  dishes  come  all 
the  salads,  the  pates,  gelatines,  cold  fish  dishes,  ices, 
and  sweets.  In  each  of  these  there  is  range  in  which 
to  display  culinary  accomplishments.  The  skill  re- 
quisite for  moderate  adornment  of  these  dishes  is 
not  so  great  that  one  need  hesitate  to  undertake 
them.  Cold  dishes  are  often  more  gratefully  re- 
ceived in  summer  than  hot  ones,  therefore  it  is  de- 
sirable that  every  cook  should  be  able  to  serve  them 
in  attractive  forms.  Again,  from  an  economic  point 
of  view  they  are  desirable,  as  meats  can  be  served 
a  second  time  in  cold  forms  quite  as  acceptably  as 
before. 

Many  moats,  when  served  cold,  require  to  be  boned 
and  pressed  into  good  shape.  Ordinary  kitchen 
boards  weighted  down  serve  very  well  for  a  press. 
The  meat,  while  hot,  is  put  into  molds,  or  is  rolled 


LUNCHEONS  21 

in  cloth,  the  ends  tied,  and  then  placed  in  the  press. 
Small  muffin-rings  can  be  used  for  sweetbreads, 
bread-tins  or  oval  molds  for  other  meats.  Chaud- 
froid  sauce  is  often  spread  over  galantines,  and  jel- 
lied mayonnaise  over  cold  fish.  On  this  smooth  sur- 
face the  decoration  is  laid  in  some  design  traced  in 
fancy  cuts  of  truffle,  or  in  a  combination  of  white  of 
egg  with  truffles,  cold  tongue,  olives,  and  other  suit- 
able things  which  give  color.  See  illustration 
No.  114. 

Aspic  jelly  is  a  principal  reliance  for  covering  cold 
pieces.  It  is  not  masking  in  this  case,  for  the  jelly 
should  be  perfectly  transparent,  while  masking  con- 
ceals the  material  of  which  the  dish  is  composed. 
Aspic  is  also  cut  into  small  triangles  or  in  squares 
to  make  borders,  and  is  sometimes  chopped  and  used 
for  decoration.  See  illustration  No.  3.  Aspic  is  no 
longer  one  of  the  difficult  preparations  reserved  for 
the  hand  of  the  very  experienced  cook.  Any  of  the 
beef  or  chicken  extracts  stiffened  with  gelatine,  and 
seasoned  and  cleared  if  necessary,  make  good  aspic. 
The  preparation  is  as  simple  as  that  of  any  jelly. 
A  little  care,  however,  in  molding  and  handling  is 
requisite  for  good  results.  Jellied  vegetables  are  ap- 
propriate to  use  with  jellied  or  other  cold  meats. 
Small  cups  are  used  for  molding  them,  and  the  pieces 
can  be  made  very  ornamental.  See  illustration  No.  6. 
The  small  forms  placed  around  meat  and  served  with 
a  green  salad  make  an  attractive  cold  course. 

Fancy  skewers  are  much  employed  on  cold  meats. 
Their  office  is  purely  ornamental,  so  when  they  are 
used  trouble  is  not  to  be  considered.  A  fancy-headed 
skewer  is  run  through,  perhaps,  a  fine  red  cockscomb, 
then  a  truffle,  then  a  fancy  cut  of  lemon,  or  a  nmsh- 


22  LUNCHEONS 

room,  or  a  carved  vegetable.  Truffles  in  combination 
with  vegetables  molded  in  aspic  and  quenelles  also  are 
often  used.  If  all  these  things  are  impracticable, 
one  can  devise  combinations  more  easily  obtained. 
A  trussing  needle  can  be  utilized,  concealing  the 
head  in  a  section  of  lemon  and  building  down  with 
carrot  and  turnip  in  alternating  colors  and  shapes, 
and  perhaps  using  a  crawfish,  an  egg,  or  an  olive 
in  the  combination.  See  illustration  No.  7.  French 
authors  recommend  that  these  skewers  be  employed 
only  occasionally,  so  that  they  may  not  lose  the  at- 
traction which  novelty  gives  them. 

Cracked,  crushed,  or  ground  ice  can  often  be  used 
with  good  effect.  It  gives  crispness  to  olives,  celery, 
radishes,  and  cucumbers,  and  enhances  the  beauty 
of  the  dish  as  well.  With  raw  oysters  it  is  indispen- 
sable, and  with  melons  very  desirable.  A  free  use  of 
ice  on  the  summer  breakfast  table  will  go  far  toward 
inviting  an  appetite  for  that  meal. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  although  great  elabora- 
tion is  possible  in  cold  dishes,  it  is  not  necessary,  and 
dishes  can  be  made  very  attractive  without  chaud- 
froid,  aspic,  or  traced  designs.  If  the  pieces  are 
shapely,  they  will  look  well  if  simply  sprinkled  with 
chopped  parsley,  chopped  white  of  egg,  or  the 
crumbed  yolks,  and  dressed  with  any  of  the  green 
salads.  Flowers  also  can  be  used  to  aid  in  adorn- 
ment. 

FISH 

As  fish  dishes  rank  with  any  other  kind  in  point 
of  attractiveness,  and  are  open  to  almost  as  great  a 
variety  of  garnishing  as  are  meats,  the  same  general 


NO.  7.     FANC1"   SKEWERS  FOR  GARNISHING  COLD  MEAT  OR  FISH  DISHES. 

1.  Mushroom,  Cranberry,  or  Olive,  whole  Hard  Boiled  Egg,  Cranberry, 

Mushroom. 

2.  Cranberry  or  Olive.    Prawn,  Quarter  of  Lemon.    Prawn,  Cranberry,  or 

Olive. 

3.  Mushroom  with  Stem.     Notched  Slice  of  Lemon.    Cranberry  or  Olive. 

Lemon,  Cranberry,  or  Olive. 


NO.   8.      BOILED  FISH   IN  SWIMMING  POSITION. 


NO.   0.      ROILED   SECTION  OF  FISH  COVERED   WITH   WHITE  SAUCE   AND 
GARNISHED  WITH   CHOITED  PARSLEY  AND  POTATO  HALLS. 


LUNCHEONS  23 

remarks  apply  to  them.  The  matter  of  shape  and 
color  here,  too,  has  to  be  considered.  A  boiled  fish 
dropping  to  pieces  from  over-cooking,  or  bereft  of  its 
head  or  tail,  is  an  unsightly  dish.  It  is  permitted 
to  serve  fish  au  naturel,  even  going  so  far  as  to  sim- 
ulate swimming.  This  is  done  by  propping  it  with 
a  whole  carrot  laid  inside,  which  gives  the  fish 
enough  rigidity  to  stand  upright.  Illustration  No. 
8  shows  a  fish  served  in  this  way.  The  garnishing 
is  white  rings  of  hard-boiled  egg,  holding  sprigs  of 
parsley,  laid  along  the  back.  A  slice  of  lemon 
sprinkled  with  and  surrounded  by  parsley,  giving 
the  effect  of  a  medallion,  is  placed  against  the  side  of 
the  fish.  A  fish  to  be  baked  may  be  twisted  like  the 
letter  S  to  make  it  stand  upright.  A  boiled  fish, 
whether  served  whole  or  in  part,  should  appear  clean. 
No  scum  from  the  kettle  should  be  suffered  to  remain 
on  it,  and  no  water  should  drip  from  it  into  the 
platter.  A  folded  napkin  is  usually  placed  under 
boiled  fish  to  insure  dryness. 

Boiled  potatoes  are  ordinarily  served  with  boiled 
fish,  and  may  be  used  for  garnishing,  if  cut  into  balls 
and  cooked  so  that  they  are  very  white  and  mealy. 
Parsley  gives  color  and  also  a  sense  of  freshness.  It 
may  be  used  in  large  bunches,  especially  when  the 
fish  is  cut,  or  on  creamed  fish  dishes. 

Illustration  No.  9  shows  a  middle  cut  of  fish  with 
potato  and  parsley  decoration.  The  fish  being  cod, 
the  flesh  is  not  sufficiently  white  to  be  attractive,  and 
so  it  is  masked  with  white  sauce,  then  sprinkled  with 
chopped  parsley.  Had  the  fish  been  halibut,  the 
sauce  would  have  been  omitted.  Hard-boiled  eggs 
are  an  excellent  accompaniment  for  boiled  fish,  and 
when  not  used  in  the  sauce  may  be  supplied  in  the 


24  LUNCHEONS 

garnishing.  Creamed  fish  is  pretty  with  the  top 
made  golden  with  crumbed  yolks. 

Fried  fish  should  have  a  lemon  color  and  look 
clean,  dry,  and  bright,  not  black  or  greasy.  The 
color  is  secured  by  dipping  them  in  milk,  then  rolling 
in  flour  and  frying  in  smoking-hot  fat;  or,  if  eggs 
and  crumbs  are  used,  having  white,  fresh  crumbs 
grated  from  the  stale  loaf.  Fish  to  be  fried  is  often 
cut  into  slices,  or  into  fillets,  but  small  fish  need  not 
be  cut  and  so  lose  their  character.  Smelts  are  some- 
times turned  into  rings,  or  are  laid  open  and  the  head 
drawn  through  a  slit  cut  in  the  back.  Different  ways 
of  dressing  them  give  variety,  and  make  dishes  orna- 
mental from  form  alone.  If  potatoes  are  served  with 
fried  fish,  they  should  be  cut  into  balls  and  fried. 
Lemons  are  indispensable  with  fried  or  broiled  fish. 
They  are  frequently  sliced,  but  are  better  cut  in 
quarters  so  as  to  give  more  of  the  juice,  which  is 
needed  for  condiment.  Lemon  sprinkled  with  chop- 
ped parsley  is  very  pretty. 

Broiled  fish  is  improved  by  being  spread  with 
maitre  d 'hotel  butter.  This  gives  it  a  moist  appear- 
ance, and  is  the  best  possible  sauce  for  it ;  at  the  same 
time  the  parsley  in  the  sauce  helps  to  garnish  the 
dish.  Watercress  placed  around  the  fish  completes 
the  garnishing  and  makes  the  dish  perfect.  Lemon 
and  watercress  are  the  best  condiments  for  any  fried 
or  broiled  dish.  Baked  fish  will  not  bear  more  than 
a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  as  garnishing. 

Lobster  coral  is  much  esteemed  on  account  of  its 
brilliant  color,  and  when  lobster  is  served  it  is  well 
to  use  it  as  a  garnish.  It  may  be  sprinkled  over  the 
whole  surface  of  a  lobster  dish,  or  be  arranged  in 
lines  or  dots  as  the  circumstances  suggest.  Shrimps, 


LUNCHEONS  25 

prawns,  and  crawfish  make  good  garnishes  for  any 
fish,  whether  it  is  served  hot  or  cold. 

When  dishes  are  to  be  passed,  the  dishing  and  gar- 
nishing should  be  such  that  the  portions  are  easily 
distinguishable. 

An  amusing  story  is  told  by  a  scientist  of  the  pre- 
dicament in  which  he  was  placed  when  the  guest 
of  honor  at  an  English  table.  He  was  a  man  of  sim- 
ple habits  in  his  home,  and  was  very  near-sighted. 
Elaborately  garnished  dishes  were  passed  to  him 
first,  as  he  sat  at  the  right  of  the  host,  and  he  had  to 
break  the  construction  of  what  he  was  pleased  to  call 
architectural  or  master-builder's  dishes,  and  this 
without  knowing  where  their  keystone  lay,  or  of 
what  they  were  composed.  He  was  thus  obliged  to 
make  public  exhibition  of  his  awkwardness,  as  well 
as  betray  ignorance  in  that  branch  of  his  own  busi- 
ness, which  left  him  unable  to  recognize  biological 
specimens  when  they  had  evolved  into  their  highest 
development  in  the  hands  of  the  cook.  This  story 
serves  as  an  important  hint  that  no  dish  should  be 
entirely  disguised.  A  lobster  should  still  be  a  lobster 
in  form  or  suggestion,  however  it  is  prepared.  For 
example,  should  it  be  served  in  chops,  a  claw  pressed 
into  one  end  would  not  only  carry  out  the  form  of  a 
chop,  but  would  also  designate  the  dish.  There  is 
generally  something  that  can  be  reserved  from  an 
article  which  loses  its  shape  in  cooking  that  may  be 
used  to  garnish  the  dish  and  act  as  a  kind  of  label. 

The  garnishes  are: 

FOR  VEGETABLES 

Parsley  Croutons 

Hard-boiled  eggs 


26  LUNCHEONS 

FOR  COLD  MEATS 

Parsley  Lemons 

Leaves  of  any  of  the  salads  Jellied  vegetables 

Cold  vegetables  in  fancy  cuts  Aspic  jelly 

Hard-boiled  eggs  Truffles 

Stuffed  eggs  Chaudfroid  sauce 

Pickles  of  any  kind  Fancy  skewers 

Capers  Flowers 

Olives  Ice 

FOR  FISH 

Parsley  Capers 

Lettuce  Potato  puree  and  balls 

Watercress  Lobster  coral  and  claws 

Croutons  Crawfish 

Hard-boiled  eggs  Prawns 

Lemons  Shrimps 

Pickles 

POTATOES 

Potatoes  are  a  universal  dish,  and  there  are  an 
infinite  variety  of  ways  of  cooking  them:  boiling, 
baking,  frying,  all  manner  of  ways  to  suit  all  man- 
ner of  people,  and  to  accompany  all  kinds  of  meats. 
Yet,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  it  is  the  food  usually 
the  worst  cooked  of  any  that  is  presented.  The  po- 
tatoes are  too  often  soggy,  greasy,  blackened,  burned. 
The  poor  cook  seems  determined  to  destroy  both  the 
favor  and  flavor  of  this  useful  vegetable.  The  po- 
tato is  mostly  starch,  and  it  is  not  as  well  known  as 
it  should  be  that  the  principle  of  cooking  starch  is 
to  cook  it  only  until  the  starch  grains  burst,  and  then 
remove  it  from  moisture,  for  the  starch  grains,  when 


LUNCHEONS  27 

open,  readily  absorb  moisture  and  become  soggy. 
Hence  we  see  this  vegetable  a  most  delicious  dish 
or  one  unfit  to  eat,  according  to  the  skill  of  the  cook. 
Mashed  potato  is  served  from  the  simplest  kitchen, 
but  betrays  the  poor  cook  as  quickly  as  a  greasy  soup. 
Sometimes  one  sees  an  attempt  made  to  improve 
the  appearance  of  this  dish  by  pressing  and  smooth- 
ing it  over  the  top.  This  makes  a  hard  and  compact 
mass  of  what  ought  to  be  a  light  and  flaky  substance. 
Often  it  is  served  in  a  deep  dish,  which  is  another 
mistake;  for  the  potato,  when  light  and  white,  is 
tempting  enough  to  serve  on  a  flat  dish  where  it  may 
be  seen.  Potatoes  that  are  to  be  served  in  this  way 
should  be  mashed  the  moment  they  are  cooked,  and 
not  set  aside  for  a  more  convenient  time.  They  may 
then  be  moistened  with  milk  or  cream  and  be  sea- 
soned with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  in  measure  to 
the  richness  desired,  and  whipped  until,  like  the 
whites  of  eggs,  they  become  white  and  spongy  from 
the  air  imprisoned  in  the  cells.  Mashed  potato  may 
be  served  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  It  can  be  run 
through  the  menu  from  soup  to  salad;  can  be  used 
for  entrees,  and  can  make  ornamental  fancy  dishes 
out  of  even  minces  and  stews.  It  is  invaluable  as  a 
mask  for  broken  dishes ;  for  instance,  a  leg  of  mutton 
can  be  made  a  presentable  dish  to  serve  a  second  time 
by  filling  the  cut  with  mashed  potato.  In  this  case 
it  must  be  molded  to  the  shape  of  the  roast  and  be 
painted  with  egg  over  the  top,  so  it  will  take  color 
and  not  betray  the  patch.  Such  expedients  are  at 
times  admissible  and  should  not  be  scorned.  It  has 
been  wisely  said  that  "if  there  is  not  economy  in  the 
kitchen  there  will  soon  be  no  kitchen." 
When  potato  is  made  into  cakes,  timbales,  or  cro- 


28  LUNCHEONS 

quettes,  it  must  have  egg  mixed  through  it,  else  -it 
will  lose  its  form  when  cooked  the  second  time.  When 
used  as  borders  for  minces  or  creamed  dishes,  it  can 
be  turned  into  shape  with  a  knife,  be  lightly  pressed 
into  a  mold  to  give  it  form,  or  be  pressed  through  a 
pastry-bag  and  tube  into  fancy  forms. 

Frying  is  perhaps  the  method  of  cooking  potatoes 
which  requires  the  most  skill.  Fried  balls,  slices,  or 
straws  are  always  excellent  with  broiled  meats,  and 
at  the  same  time  are  the  best  garnish  for  them.  The 
height  of  skill  is  reached  in  the  souffle.  These  small 
balloons  are  something  of  a  marvel,  and  are  seldom 
seen  except  from  the  hand  of  a  French  cook.  The 
amateur  seldom  succeeds  with  this  dish,  yet  it  is  one 
worthy  of  the  practice  which  makes  perfect.  To  pre- 
pare the  delectable  souffle,  the  potato  is  cut  length- 
wise, or  with  the  grain ;  the  slices  must  be  one  eighth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  taken  off  with  one  clean, 
sharp  cut,  then  trimmed  to  uniform  shapes,  either 
elliptical  or  round.  The  slices  are  soaked  in  cold 
water  and  dried  with  a  cloth  at  the  moment  of  cook- 
ing. They  are  immersed  in  fat  just  below  the  smok- 
ing-point,  and  cooked  for  five  minutes,  or  until  soft- 
ened ;  are  then  drained  and  allowed  to  cool  for  a  little 
time  in  an  open  oven,  and  then  immersed  a  second 
time  in  fat  which  is  very  hot,  when  the  slices  at  once 
puff  and  brown.  They  should  be  served  at  once. 

Potato  straws  are  very  attractive  and  seem  so  light 
and  harmless  that  those  who  ordinarily  reject  fried 
dishes  are  tempted  by  them.  They  are  cut  length- 
wise of  the  tuber,  first  in  slices  about  one  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  then  into  straws  the  length 
of  the  slices.  They  cook  very  quickly  in  smoking-hot 
fat,  and  must  not  be  left  in  so  long  as  to  become 


4 

NO.   10.      UTENSILS. 

1.  Baking  sheet. 

2.  Fontage  or  Swedish  timbale  irons. 

3.  Puree  sieve. 

4.  Pastry  brush. 

5.  Two  pastry  bags  made  of  rubber  cloth,  the  larger  one  holdin°-  a  star 

tube. 

6.  Tubes  for  pastry  bags  with  plain,  round,  and  star  openings  of  different 

sizes.    The  last  four  on  the  right  are  small  tubes  for  icing  cake  in 
ornamental  designs. 


NO.   11.      DIFFERENT  WAYS  OF  PREPARING  HUTTER. 


2  3                 45 

5        9  10         ii 

14  15 

NO.   12.  CUTTERS  AND  MOLDS. 


16 


1.  A  nest  of  long  vegetable  cutters  making  pencil-shaped  pieces  of  differ- 
ent sizes. 

1,  3,  4.  Bread  and  cake  cutters  in  the  forms  of  a  heart,  a  spade,  and  a 
clover  leaf. 

5.  Individual  timbale  molds. 

6.  Pastry  cutter  for  vol-au-vents. 

7.  Form  for  molding  lobster  or  fish,  chops. 

8.  9.  .Small  plain  round,  and  fluted  cutters  for  tiny  biscuits  or  for  garnishes. 

10.  A  group  of  fancy  cutters  for  sliced  vegetables  to  be  used  in  macedoine, 

in  soup,  or  as  garnishes. 

11.  A  smaller  cutter  used  for  truflles  and  hard  boiled  eggs. 

12.  Cake  cutter  in  form  of  crescent. 

13.  Three  vegetable  scoops. 

14.  Fluted  knife  for  cutting  fluted  slices  of  vegetables,  turnip  cups,  etc. 

15.  A  spatula,  or  dull  edged  flexible  knife. 

16.  Small  molds  for  aspics  or  other  jellies  used  for  garnishing. 


LUNCHEONS  29 

brown  and  dry.  They  should  be  crisp  and  of  a  lemon 
color.  The  straws  can  be  cut  of  a  larger  size  if  de- 
sired, and  are  especially  pretty  if  cut  with  a  fluted 
knife. 

It  seems  desirable  to  suggest  to  housekeepers  the 
feasibility  of  making  a  specialty  of  cooking  potatoes, 
and  with  them  to  give  variety,  which  is  so  accepta- 
ble to  those  who  sit  at  their  board.  Perhaps  no  other 
one  thing  is  susceptible  to  so  many  changes,  and  is 
so  simple  to  prepare,  is  so  satisfactory  when  properly 
served,  and  withal  so  nutritious.  It  answers  both 
the  substantial  and  the  esthetic  requirements  of  the 
perfect  meal;  it  can  be  suitably  served  for  break- 
fast, dinner,  supper,  and  luncheon;  it  is  within  the 
reach  of  all. 

CREAM 

Whipped  cream  often  makes  the  best  sauce  for  a 
dessert  dish,  and  can  be  used  as  a  garnish.  Its  use 
need  not  be  considered  an  extravagance.  A  half- 
pint  of  double  cream  is  all  that  is  usually  called  for, 
this  costs  but  ten  cents,  and  often  the  use  of  cream 
saves  the  use  of  butter,  in  the  same  way  that  water 
can  sometimes  be  substituted  for  milk  if  a  little 
butter  is  added  to  the  receipt  to  give  the  richness 
which  milk  imparts. 


CAKE 

Decorating  cakes  takes  a  little  time,  but  facility  is 
soon  acquired,  and  the  time  is  not  misspent,  as  the 
cakes,  before  being  served,  can  be  used  to  ornament 
the  table. 


30  LUNCHEONS 

THE  PASTRY-BAG 

The  pastry-bag  is  a  cornucopia-shaped  pocket 
made  of  rubber  cloth,  of  duck,  or  of  any  closely 
woven  fabric  like  ticking.  The  point  of  the  cornu- 
copia is  cut  off  and  a  tin  tube  pressed  into  the  small 
opening.  The  bags  made  of  rubber  cloth  are  the  best, 
as  they  do  not  allow  moisture  to  come  through,  and 
are  easily  cleaned.  They  cost  fifteen  cents  each,  and 
can  be  bought  at  house-furnishing  stores,  but  bags 
can  be  easily  made  at  home. 

The  tubes  cost  ten  cents  each,  are  of  graduated 
sizes,  and  have  various-shaped  openings. 

The  pastry-bag  is  easy  to  handle,  and  is  of  great 
utility  where  ornamental  dishes  are  desired.  It  is 
used  for  mashed  vegetables,  meringues,  whipped 
cream,  drop  cake  mixtures,  icing,  etc. 

A  tube,  with  opening  of  suitable  size,  is  fitted  into 
the  small  end  of  the  bag,  the  mixture  is  then  put  in, 
and  the  bag,  gathered  over  close  to  the  material,  is 
held  and  pressed  with  one  hand  while  the  tube  is 
guided  with  the  other,  leaving  the  material  squeezed 
through  it  in  the  forms  desired.  It  needs  but  very 
little  practice  to  make  ornamental  designs.  It  is 
well  to  have  at  least  two  bags,  one  of  them  large,  with 
a  large  tube,  to  hold  mixtures  used  in  quantity,  and 
one  small  for  decorating  with  icing. 


FONTAGE  CUPS 

1  cupful  of  flour, 
^  teaspoonful  salt, 
Yolks  of  2  eggs, 
Milk  or  water. 


LUNCHEONS  31 

Add  enough  milk  to  a  cup  of  flour  to  make  a  thin 
batter,  then  add  the  salt  and  the  beaten  yolks.  The 
batter  must  be  smooth  and  quite  thin.  Use  a  small 
bowl  deep  enough  to  immerse  the  fontage  iron. 

Have  deep  fat  smoking  hot.  Place  the  iron  in  the 
fat  to  heat  it.  Dip  the  hot  iron  into  the  batter, 
covering  it  to  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the 
top ;  the  batter  will  rise  and  cover  the  whole  iron. 
Hold  the  iron  in  the  batter  for  a  minute,  or  until 
a  little  of  the  batter  has  hardened  around  it,  then 
lift  it  carefully,  holding  the  iron  so  the  batter  will 
not  slip  off.  Immerse  it  in  the  hot  fat  and  cook  until 
light-colored. 

After  a  few  trials  one  will  be  able  to  make  the 
cups  even  and  thin.  They  are  also  called  Swedish 
timbales,  and  are  used  for  holding  any  kind  of 
creamed  mixtures,  or  for  holding  vegetables.  They 
can  be  used  as  an  entree,  or  for  garnishing  other 
dishes.  The  cups  will  keep  for  some  time,  but  in 
this  case  should  be  freshened  by  heating  before  be- 
ing used;  and,  as  they  soften  quickly,  the  mixture 
should  not  b'e  replaced  in  them  until  the  moment 
of  serving.  Illustration  No.  10  shows  fontage  irons. 

DIFFERENT  WAYS  OF  PREPARING  BUTTER 

Numbers  one,  two,  and  three  are  made  by  pressing 
butter  through  a  pastry-bag  with  star-tube.  In  No. 
1  it  is  cut  in  three-inch  lengths;  in  No.  2  it  is 
pressed  into  long  pencils  and  cut  when  cold  into  one- 
inch  lengths;  and  in  No.  3  it  is  made  into  rosettes 
by  holding  the  tube  still  until  the  butter  has  piled 
up  to  the  size  desired.  These  are  good  forms  for 
fresh  butter,  and  they  should  be  made  as  soon  as  the 


32  LUNCHEONS 

butter  is  churned  and  worked,  as  it  is  soft  enough 
then  to  pass  through  the  tube.  If  salted  butter  is 
used,  it  must  be  whipped  with  a  fork  until  it  is  soft 
and  light  before  being  pressed  through  the  bag.  The 
forms  must  be  dropped  at  once  into  ice-water  to 
harden  them.  Serve  the  pieces  in  a  dish  with  cracked 
ice  and  green  leaves.  Parsley  will  do  if  nothing 
better  is  at  hand.  Eose  leaves  are  especially  pretty, 
or  a  lettuce  leaf  may  be  used  as  a  kind  of  basket. 

No.  4  are  shell-shaped  pieces  made  with  a  bent, 
fluted  utensil  made  for  the  purpose  (see  illustration 
No.  5,  opposite  page  256,  "Century  Cook  Book"). 
The  utensil  is  dipped  in  hot  water,  wiped  dry,  and 
then  drawn  lightly  over  the  butter,  making  a  thin 
shaving  which  curls  over  as  the  utensil  is  drawn 
along.  The  crook  must  be  dipped  in  hot  water  and 
wiped  clean  each  time. 

Butter  molded  into  fancy  shapes  and  served  in 
this  way  is  very  attractive. 

MEASURES  AND  TERMS 

1  cupful  means  half  a  pint. 

1  teaspoonful  of  salt  or  spices  means  an  even 
teaspoonful. 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour,  butter,  etc.,  means  a 
rounding  spoonful. 

Saute  means  to  cook  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter 
or  drippings. 

Frying  means  cooking  by  immersion  in  hot  fat. 

Blanching  almonds  means  taking  off  the  skins. 

This  is  done  by  letting  them  lie  in  boiling  water 
until  the  skins  are  loosened. 

Blanching  sweetbreads  means  whitening  them  by 


NO.  14.      PAPER  FRILLS.      PAPER  BOXES.      CAKE  DECORATIONS. 

1.  Pleated  paper  frill  for  concealing  a  baking  dish. 

2.  Frill  for  leg-of-mutton  bone. 

3.  Frills  on  wooden  toothpicks  for  croquettes.        4.  Frills  for  chop  bones. 

5.  Board  holding  on  a  lace  paper  confectioners'  roses,  of  different  colors, 

and  other  flowers  for  decorating  cake. 

6.  Paper  box  holding  silvered  candy  pellets  for  decorating  cake. 

7.  Paper  boxes  for  ices,  or  mixtures  of  creamed  meats,  or  eggs. 

8.  Paper  boxes  for  holding  small  iced  cakes  or  candied  fruits. 


7  8  9 

NO.   15.      CASSEROLES  AND  BAKING  DISHES. 

1.  A  white  china  dish  for  holding  creamed  oysters,  etc.,  or  to  hold  a 

smaller  dish  which  has  been  in  the  oven. 

2,  3.  Oblong  and  round  baking  dishes  of  glazed  pottery,  brown  on  the  out- 

side, white  in  the  inside,  which  can  be  sent  to  the  table. 
4.  Pipkin,  to  use  the  same  as  a  casserole.  5.  Casserole. 

6,  7.  Brown-ware  dishes  for  shirred  eggs. 
8.  China  cups  for  individual  creamed  dishes.  9.  Small  casserole. 


NO.    16.      ICE  PLANE. 


No.  17.     IIOJJS  D'OEUVBEB. 
Ilors  d'oenvres  arc  relishes  which  are  passed  between  the  courses. 

1.  Olives. 

L>.  Small  heart  stalk-  of  celery  and  radishes  m  I  lie  same  dish. 

i).  Curled  celery.  The  celery  is  cut  in  two-inch  lenjrths,  which  arc  scored 
across  the  ribbed  side  and  then  cut  in  narrow  strips  down  to  a  quarter 
of  nil  inch  of  one  end.  The  pieces  are  then  placed  in  cold  water  to 
make  them  curl. 

4.  Radishes  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

5.  I'im-olas  (olives  stuffed  with  red  peppers). 


LUNCHEONS 


33 


pouring  cold  water  on  them  immediately  after  the 
hot  water  is  poured  off. 

A  scale  and  a  half-pint  tin  cup  are  indispensable 
cooking  utensils,  as  the  success  of  many  dishes  de- 
pends on  exact  weight  and  measurements. 

Except  in  a  few  cases,  receipts  given  in  ' '  Century 
Cook  Book"  are  not  repeated  here. 


ORDER  OF  COURSES 


First  Course 


First  or  Second  Course 
First,  Second,  or  Third 

Course 
Fourth  Course 


Fifth  or  Seventh  Course 
Sixth  Course 


Seventh  Course 


Eighth  Course 


Fruits 

Cocktails 

Canapes 

Oysters  on  the  half  shell 

Clams  on  the  half  shell 

Soup 

Eggs 

Shell-fish 

Lobsters 

Fish 

Entrees 

Meats 

Vegetables 

Cereals  used  as  vegetables 

Chicken 

Punches 

Fruit 

Cheese  dishes 

Entrees 

Game 

Salads 

Cold  service 

Cheese 


34  LUNCHEONS 

Ninth  Course  Hot  desserts 

Cold  desserts 
Pies 
Tarts 

Tenth  Course  Ices 

Cake 

Eleventh  Course  Fruits 

Candies 

Twelfth  Course  Black  coffee 

Tea 
Liqueurs 

BEVERAGES  SERVED  AT  LUNCHEON 

Table  waters 

Cups 

Wines 


CHAPTEE  II 
FIRST  COURSE 

FRUITS 


FRUITS 


Oranges 

Salpicon  of  fruits  on  glass  plate 

Salpicon  of  fruits  in  glasses 

Grape-fruit 

Strawberries   on  individual  plates 


Individual  pineapples 
Currants  on  individual  plates 
Frosted  currants 
Muskmelon 


COCKTAILS,  CANAPES,  OYSTERS,  CLAMS 


Clam  cocktails 

Oyster  cocktails 

Anchovy  eggs 

Salmon  canapes,  heart-shaped 

Anchovy  canapes 


Canapes  of  caviare 
Oysters  on  the  half  shell 
Clams  on  the  half  shell 
Bread  and  butter  sandwiches  with 
oysters  and  clams 


FRUITS 

No.  1.  Oranges.  Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  oranges.  Scrape  out 
the  pulp  and  draw  a  narrow  ribbon  through  each 
top,  passing  the  two  ends  through  with  a  bodkin  and 
tying  them  on  the  under  side.  Drawing  through  the 
ribbon  soils  it.  Tie  a  bow  on  top. 

Loosen  the  pulp  of  the  orange,  using  a  silver  knife, 
so  it  can  be  eaten  with  a  spoon.  Add  a  little  sugar 
if  necessary,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sherry,  if  desired. 

No.  2.  Salpicon  of  fruits.  Place  in  the  center  of  a  glass  plate 
some  pieces  of  the  pulp  of  an  orange  or  grape-fruit, 
or  both  mixed  together.  Arrange  around  them  a 
double  row  of  white  grapes  cut  in  halves  and  with 
the  seeds  removed. 

Salpicon  of  fruits  in  glasses.  This  is  a  mixture  of 
fruits  such  as  grape-fruit,  grapes,  oranges,  bananas, 
and  pineapple,  or  any  combination  convenient.  Di- 
vide the  oranges  and  grape-fruit  into  sections,  then 
carefully  take  off  the  skins  and  remove  the  seeds. 
Leave  the  pulp  in  large  pieces;  add  enough  sugar  to 
sweeten  and  a  little  sherry  if  desired.  Cut  the  grapes 
in  halves  and  remove  the  seeds.  Place  the  mixture 
in  individual  glasses  and  add  two  or  three  candied 
cherries  to  each  glass. 

Grape-fruit.      Prepare  grape-fruit  as  directed  above. 
Sweeten  it  and  make  it  very  cold.    Place  it  in  indi- 
37 


38  LUNCHEONS 

vidual  glasses  with  a  candied  cherry  in  the  center. 
At  the  last  moment  add  a  teaspoonful  of  cracked  ice 
to  each  glass. 

Strawberries,  Press  powdered  sugar  into  a  small  cup 
or  glass  to  mold  it.  Turn  the  sugar  into  the  center 
of  a  dish  and  arrange  around  it  carefully  selected 
strawberries.  Leave  the  hulls  on  the  berries  and 
serve  in  individual  portions. 

Individual  pineapples.  Cut  small  pineapples  in  two. 
Cut  the  ends  so  the  pieces  will  stand  straight.  Cut 
out  the  centers  and  tear  the  pulp  into  pieces,  then  re- 
turn it  to  the  cups  formed  by  the  skins.  Sweeten  with 
powdered  sugar;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  if 
desired,  to  each  portion.  Let  them  stand  a  little  while 
to  extract  the  juice.  At  the  moment  of  serving  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  cracked  ice  to  each  cup.  Serve  as  a 
first  course  at  luncheon,  or  before  the  game  at 
dinner. 

A  variety  called  strawberry  pines  are  best  suited 
for  this  dish.  They  are  sometimes  so  small  that  a 
whole  one  may  be  used  as  one  portion. 

Currants.  Make  a  mound  of  sugar  as  directed  for 
strawberries.  Place  around  the  sugar  bunches  of 
cherry  currants,  as  in  No.  1,  or  pile  them  on  grape 
leaves  as  in  No.  2.  White  and  red  currants  may  be 
placed  in  the  same  dish.  Serve  in  individual  portions 
as  first  course  at  luncheon  or  at  breakfast. 

Frosted  currants.  Stem  large  cherry  currants.  Put 
them  in  a  dish  with  a  quantity  of  granulated  sugar 


NO.   18.      1.   8ALPICON  OF  FRUIT  ON  GLASS  PLATE.  2.   ORANGE. 


NO.   19.      INDIVIDUAL  DISH  OF  STRAWBERRIES. 


NO.   20.      INDIVIDUAL  DISHES  OF  STRAWBERRY   PINEAPPLES. 


NO.  21.      INDIVIDUAL  DISHES  OF  CURRANTS. 


NO.   22.      FROSTKI)  CURRANTS. 


NO.  23.     MU8KMELON. 


LUNCHEONS  39 

and  shake  them  together.  The  moisture  of  the  cur- 
rants will  cause  enough  sugar  to  adhere  to  completely 
cover  them.  Turn  them  off  the  sugar  and  serve 
at  once  before  the  sugar  loses  its  dryness.  Serve 
them  on  leaves  in  individual  portions,  or  pass  them 
as  a  first  course  at  luncheon  or  breakfast.  This  is  a 
very  pretty  way  of  serving  currants. 

Muskmelon.  The  muskmelon  should  be  very  ripe 
and  very  cold.  Cut  the  melons  in  two  and  serve 
with  cracked  ice  in  each  half.  If  the  melon  is  not 
too  large  serve  a  half  as  one  portion.  Serve  on  indi- 
vidual plates,  or  pass  as  first  course  for  breakfast, 
luncheon,  or  dinner.  Pass  salt  and  sugar. 

For  other  arrangements  of  fruits  see  "  Century 
Cook  Book,  "page  529. 


CLAM  OR  OYSTER  COCKTAILS 

Use  small  Little  Neck  clams  or  small  Blue  Point  oysters. 

To  each  8  or  10  clams  or  oysters  use : 

One  tablespoonful  of  tomato  catsup, 

Two  tablespoonfuls  of  Chili  sauce, 

One  half  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 

A  dash  of  tabasco  or  of  paprika, 

One  tablespoonful  of  clam  or  oyster  liquor, 

The  juice  of  one  quarter  of  a  lemon. 
Mix  the  sauces  and  let  the  clams  or  oysters  stand  in  them 
for  an  hour  before  serving. 

Serve  in  small  glasses  as  a  first  course. 


40  LUNCHEONS 

ANCHOVY  EGGS 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two  lengthwise,  using  a  thin- 
bladed,  sharp  knife.  Have  the  eggs  boiled  twenty-five  min- 
utes so  the  yolks  will  be  crumby. 

Remove  the  yolks,  mash  them,  and  mix  them  with  mayon- 
naise and  the  trimmings  of  the  anchovies.  Just  before  serv- 
ing, fill  the  white  halves  with  the  yolk  mixture,  covering  the 
whole  top,  heaping  it  in  the  middle  and  leaving  a  rough 
surface.  Trim  anchovies  to  the  right  length  and  lay  two 
of  them  crossed  over  the  top  of  each  egg.  Set  each  piece 
on  a  round  of  bread  sauted  in  butter.  Slice  a  little  piece  off 
the  bottom  of  the  egg  to  make  it  stand  firm. 

Serve  on  individual  plates. 

Anchovies  preserved  in  oil  are  put  up  in  small  bottles  and 
can  be  purchased  from  a  grocer. 


HEART-SHAPED  SALMON  CANAPES 

Cut  very  light  bread  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Stamp  them  with  a  cutter  into  heart  shapes.  Spread 
them  thinly  on  both  sides  with  butter  and  put  them  in  the 
oven  to  brown ;  or  saute  them  in  butter.  Let  them  cool,  then 
lay  on  each  one  a  slice  of  Nova  Scotia  smoked  salmon,  cut  as 
thin  as  possible.  Place  around  the  edges  of  the  heart  a 
border  of  chopped  white  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  a  little 
crumbed  yolk  just  at  the  upper  point  of  the  heart,  making 
a  round  spot.  The  salmon  must  not  be  entirely  covered  with 
egg,  so  that  the  hearts  may  show  three  colors.  Serve  on  in- 
dividual plates,  with  a  small  piece  of  parsley  at  the  rounded 
end. 

Nova  Scotia  salmon  can  be  bought  at  delicatessen  stores. 


NO.  24.     ANCHOVY  EGGS. 


NO.  25.      HEART-SHAPED  SALMON  CANAPES. 


NO.   26.      OYSTERS  AND  CLAMS  ON  THE  HALF  SHELL. 


LUNCHEONS  41 

ANCHOVY  CANAPES 

Cut  fresh  bread  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then 
into  rounds  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  Spread  the 
rounds  of  bread  with  butter,  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  mustard. 

Split  and  trim  the  anchovies  to  uniform  length  and  ar- 
range them  on  the  bread  in  rosette  form.  Fill  the  spaces 
between  the  anchovy  fillets  with  the  chopped  white  and  the 
crumbed  yolk  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  make  a  border  around 
the  bread  with  the  white.  Use  a  little  chopped  parsley  in  the 
decoration. 

For  other  canapes,  see  ''Century  Cook  Book,"  page  368. 

CANAPES   OF  CAVIARE 

Cut  very  light  bread  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
then  into  rounds  or  squares  two  inches  across.  Saute  them 
in  butter  on  one  side.  When  they  are  cold  spread  them  with 
a  thin  covering  of  caviare  moistened  with  a  little  oil  and 
lemon  juice.  Place  on  the  top  of  each  one  a  very  thin  slice 
of  lemon. 

Caviare  is  the  fermented  roe  of  the  sturgeon.  It  is  a 
dish  much  esteemed  in  Russia,  but  the  taste  for  it  is  not  very 
general  in  other  countries,  so  discretion  should  be  used  in 
serving  it. 

It  comes  in  small  jars  and  can  be  obtained  at  grocers'. 

OYSTEES  OR   CLAMS  ON  THE  HALF   SHELL 

Raw  oysters  and  clams  are  served  on  the  "half  shell"  for 
a  first  course.  Blue  Point  oysters  and  Little  Neck  clams  are 
the  varieties  preferred.  The  smallest  ones,  and  those  uni- 
form in  size,  should  be  selected.  They  should  be  opened 


42  LUNCHEONS 

only  a  short  time  before  serving.  The  muscle  holding  the 
mollusk  to  the  shell  is  cut  and  the  oyster  or  clam  is  served 
on  the  deep  valve. 

Arrange  the  clams  or  oysters  symmetrically  in  a  circle, 
the  beaks  turned  to  the  center,  on  a  bed  of  cracked  ice.  Place 
in  the  middle  a  quarter  of  a  lemon  cut  lengthwise,  the  top 
edge  shaved  off  and  the  seeds  extracted.  Rest  the  piece  of 
lemon  on  a  sprig  of  parsley  or  any  green  leaf. 

Condiments,  thin  brown  bread  and  butter  sandwiches,  and 
biscuits  are  passed  with  this  course. 

The  condiments  (horseradish  and  tomato  catsup,  black 
and  red  pepper)  may  be  placed  on  a  dish,  and  the  bread  and 
biscuits  arranged  around  them  as  in  illustration. 


CHAPTER  III 
SECOND  COURSE 

SOUPS 


SOUPS 

Consomme  of  Beef  Cream  of  Clams 

Consomme  of  Chicken  Cream  of  Oysters 

Clam  Broth  Cream  of  Spinach 

Clam  Bisque  Cream  of  Celery 


SOUPS 

Soups  used  for  luncheon  are  served  in  cups.  Any  kind  of 
soup  can  be  used,  but  those  given  below  are  the  ones  generally 
employed.  For  other  soups,  see  "Century  Cook  Book," 
page  97. 

CONSOMME   OF  BEEF 

Cut  into  pieces  four  pounds  of  beef  taken  from  the  under 
part  of  the  round,  and  the  meat  cut  from  a  knuckle  of  veal. 
Put  them  into  a  soup  pot  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  let  them  brown  on  all  sides.  Then  add  a  cupful  of 
water  and  let  it  fall  to  a  glaze.  This  is  to  give  color  to  the 
soup.  Add  five  and  a  half  quarts  of  cold  water.  Let  it  boil 
slowly  for  five  to  six  hours.  An  hour  before  removing  it  add 
soup  vegetables,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  fifteen  peppercorns, 
three  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  a  little  thyme,  marjoram,  and 
summer  savory. 

Strain  the  soup  through  a  cloth  and  let  it  cool  without 
covering.  When  it  is  cold  take  off  the  grease.  As  no  bones 
were  boiled  with  the  soup,  it  will  be  clear ;  and  as  the  meat 
was  browned,  it  will  have  a  good  color. 

It  can  be  made  perfectly  clear  as  follows :  Pour  the  soup 
off  the  sediment  which  has  fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 
Stir  into  it  while  it  is  cold  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
enough  to  break  them.  Place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until 
it  comes  to  the  boiling-point ;  the  egg  will  then  be  cooked  and 
have  imprisoned  any  particles  which  clouded  the  soup. 
Let  it  boil  violently  for  a  few  minutes,  then  draw  it  to  the 

45 


46  LUNCHEONS 

side  of  the  range.    Strain  it  again  through  a  cloth.    Heat  it 
again  before  serving  it. 

In  summer  this  soup  is  sometimes  served  cold  in  the  form 
of  jelly.  In  this  case  the  bone  of  the  knuckle  of  veal  must 
be  cooked  with  it  in  order  to  make  it  jelly.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  during  the  cooking  the  water  only  simmers,  for 
if  it  boils  lime  will  be  extracted  from  the  bone  and  it  will 
be  impossible  to  have  a  clear  soup. 

CONSOMME   OF   CHICKEN 

Place  a  fowl  in  a  soup  pot  with  four  quarts  of  cold  water 
and  let  it  come  slowly  to  the  boiling-point,  then  draw  it  to 
the  side  of  the  range  and  let  it  simmer  for  five  or  six  hours. 
If  it  is  allowed  to  boil  the  soup  will  be  clouded  by  lime  ex- 
tracted from  the  bones. 

An  hour  before  removing  it  add  an  onion,  a  branch  of 
celery,  a  tablespoon  of  salt,  and  six  peppercorns.  Strain  it 
through  a  cloth,  and  when  cold  remove  the  grease.  Clear  it 
the  same  as  the  beef  consomme. 

A  knuckle  of  veal  may  also  be  used  with  this  soup  if  a 
jellied  stock  is  wanted  to  serve  cold. 

CLAM  BROTH 

Boil  clams  in  their  own  liquor  for  twenty  minutes.  Let 
the  liquid  settle  before  pouring  it  off.  Season  it  with  pepper 
and  serve  it  very  hot  in  cups,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  whipped 
cream  on  the  top  of  each  cupful.  About  two  dozen  clams 
will  give  a  quart  of  liquor. 

CLAM  BISQUE 

Boil  a  pint  of  clams  in  their  own  liquor.  Chop  the  clams 
very  fine  and  return  them  to  the  fire  with  the  clam  liquor, 


SOUPS  47 

a  quart  of  soup  stock  L(  chicken  or  veal  stock  preferred),  half 
a  cupful  of  uncooked  rice,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  a  bay-leaf. 
Boil  until  the  rice  is  tender,  then  strain  the  soup  through  a 
puree  sieve,  pressing  through  as  much  of  the  clams  and  rice 
as  possible.  Strain  a  second  time.  Just  before  serving, 
heat  it,  add  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  beat  the  whole  with  an 
egg-whip. 

CREAM  OF  CLAMS 

Steam  twenty-five  clams  and  as  soon  as  they  open  remove 
them  from  the  shells  and  strain  off  the  liquor.  Chop  the 
clams,  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  and  rub  as  much  of  them  as 
possible  through  a  puree  sieve.  Put  three  cupfuls  of  milk 
into  a  double  boiler,  cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  together,  but  do  not  let  them 
brown,  then  add  to  the  cooked  butter  and  flour  a  little  of  the 
milk  from  the  boiler  to  make  a  smooth  paste,  put  the  paste 
into  the  milk  in  the  double  boiler,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it 
is  a  little  thickened.  When  ready  to  serve  add  two  cupfuls  of 
clam  liquor  and  the  pulp  which  has  passed  through  the  sieve. 
Let  it  get  hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  or  it  will  curdle.  Season 
with  salt,  if  necessary,  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  At 
the  moment  of  serving  add  a  cupful  of  cream  and  beat  the 
whole  well  with  an  egg-whip.  This  receipt  makes  a  quart  and 
a  half  of  soup. 

CREAM  OF  OYSTERS 

Prepare  the  same  as  the  Cream  of  Clams. 

CREAMED  SOUPS 

Any  vegetable  pulp  can  be  used  for  creamed  soups  after 
the  rule  given  for  Cream  of  Spinach. 


48  LUNCHEONS 

CREAM   OF   SPINACH 

Boil  spinach  until  tender,  then  drain  it.  Chop  it  and  rub 
it  through  a  puree  sieve.  To  two  cupfuls  of  vegetable  pulp 
add  a  quart  of  soup  stock,  or  a  quart  of  milk,  or  half  stock 
and  half  milk.  Rub  together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Put  this  into  the  soup  on  the  fire 
and  stir  all  together  until  the  soup  is  a  little  thickened.  Sea- 
son it  with  pepper  and  salt  and  add  a  half  or  a  whole  cup- 
ful of  cream.  Beat  it  well  with  an  egg-whip  and  serve  at 
once.  If  the  soup  is  too  thick  dilute  it  with  a  little  stock  or 
milk.  It  should  have  the  consistency  of  cream. 

CREAM  OF  CELERY 

This  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Cream  of 
Spinach,  using  celery  pulp  instead  of  spinach.  The  roots 
of  the  celery  as  well  as  the  stalks  should  be  boiled  to  make 
the  pulp. 


CHAPTER  IV 

THIRD  COURSE 

EGGS 


EGGS 

Plain  French  Omelet  Creamed  Egg  Baskets 

Beaten  Omelet  Poached  Eggs  with  Greens 

Omelet  Chasseur  Eggs  in  Nests 

Eggs  a  la  Komaine  Eggs  Farci,  No.  1 

Eggs  baked  in  Tomatoes  Eggs  Farci,  No.  2 

Eggs  baked  in  Green  Peppers  Eggs  with  Giblet  Sauce 

Scrambled  Eggs  with  Tomato  Eggs  a  1'Aurore 

Creamed  Poached  Eggs  Scrambled  Eggs  with  Brains 


EGGS 

Egg  dishes  are  especially  useful  for  luncheon,  as  they 
are  easily  and  quickly  prepared,  are  always  liked,  and  can 
be  served  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  They  may  be  used  as 
a  first  course,  or  in  the  order  named  in  the  list. 

TO  POACH  EGGS 

Drop  the  eggs  into  water  just  off  the  boiling-point.  Let 
them  cook  slowly  until  the  whites  are  like  jelly,  but  not  un- 
til hard.  Muffin-rings  may  be  used  to  keep  them  in  good 
shape. 

TO  POACH  EGGS  IN  FRENCH  STYLE 

Use  a  large  saucepan  and  have  it  two  thirds  full  of  water. 
Add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  When  the  water  boils 
stir  it  with  the  handle  of  a  \vooden  spoon  until  it  whirls, 
then  drop  quickly  a  fresh  egg  into  the  depression  or  eddy 
of  the  whirling  water.  This  will  give  the  egg  a  rounded 
shape.  When  the  white  is  set  and  before  the  yolk  has  hard- 
ened, remove  the  egg  with  a  skimmer  and  place  it  on  a  dish 
to  drain.  Only  one  egg  at  a  time  can  be  cooked  in  this  way. 

Trim  the  eggs  carefully,  cutting  away  all  the  ragged  white. 

i 

TO  SCRAMBLE  EGGS 

Add  a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
dash  of  pepper  for  every  two  eggs.  Beat  them  just  enough 
to  break  them,  but  not  enough  to  make  them  smooth  or 

51 


52  LUNCHEONS 

frothy.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan,  and 
when  it  bubbles  turn  in  the  eggs.  With  a  fork  scrape  the 
cooked  eggs  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  giving  flakes  of 
cooked  egg.  If  the  butter  is  not  allowed  to  brown,  the  eggs 
will  have  a  clean,  bright  yellow  color. 


PLAIN  FRENCH  OMELET 

Add  a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  dash  of  pepper  to  three  or  four  eggs.  Beat  them  just 
enough  to  break  them.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  into 
a  clean,  smooth  saute-pan.  When  the  butter  bubbles  turn  in 
the  eggs.  When  the  eggs  are  a  little  set  on  the  bottom,  tip 
the  pan  a  little  towards  the  handle,  and  with  a  fork  stir 
the  mixture  on  the  handle  half  of  the  pan,  lifting  the  cooked 
portion  off  the  bottom  in  large  flakes.  When  the  mixture 
is  all  cooked,  but  still  soft,  pile  the  scrambled  part  on  to  the 
smooth  half,  making  it  high  in  the  center.  Turn  the  omelet 
on  to  a  hot  dish.  This  should  give  a  smooth  outside  surface 
of  egg,  covering  the  softer  inside  portion,  which  is  scrambled 
in  large  flakes.  It  is  not  well  to  make  an  omelet  of  more 
than  three  or  four  eggs.  If  more  is  needed,  make  a  second 
omelet. 

BEATEN   OMELET 

Beat  the  whites  of  three  or  four  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add 
to  the  yolks  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  milk.  Beat  them  well  together,  then  fold 
in  lightly  the  whipped  whites.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  butter 
in  a  saute-pan  and  let  it  run  all  over  the  bottom.  When  it 
bubbles  turn  in  the  egg  mixture  and  spread  it  evenly  over  the 
pan.  Let  it  cook  slowly  without  stirring  until  it  seems 
cooked  through,  then  place  it  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes 


NO.   27.      BOUILLON  CUP  WITH  SIPPETS  OF  TOAST  AND  ITALIAN  BREAD  STICKS. 


NO.   28.      OMELET  CHASSEUR. 


NO.  29.      1.   EGGS   A  LA  ROMAINE.      2.   EGGS  BAKED  IN  TOMATOES. 
3.  EGGS  BAKED  IN  GREEN  PEPPERS.     4.   SCRAMBLED  EGGS  WITH  TOMATOES. 


EGGS  53 

to  harden  the  top  surface.     Fold  one  half  over  the  other 
and  turn  the  omelet  on  to  a  hot  dish. 


OMELET  CHASSEUR 

Make  either  a  French  or  a  beaten  omelet.  Before  folding 
it,  place  in  the  center  some  well-seasoned  or  creamed  minced 
chicken,  or  other  meat.  Fold  the  omelet  and  turn  it  on  to  a 
dish.  Cover  the  top  with  well-seasoned  tomato.  The  tomato 
should  be  dry  enough  to  hold  its  place,  leaving  a  border  of 
yellow  egg  between  the  tomato  and  the  meat. 

No.  1.  Eggs  a  la  romaine.  Cut  sliced  bread  into  rounds  and 
saute  them  in  butter.  Place  on  each  one  an  arti- 
choke bottom  which  has  been  heated  in  hot  water. 
On  the  artichoke  place  an  egg  poached  in  the  French 
style  (see  page  51).  Arrange  the  eggs  around  a 
mound  of  green  peas,  and  pour  over  the  eggs  a  white 
sauce  made  partly  of  chicken  stock,  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  beaten  in  the  last  thing. 

No.  2.  Eggs  baked  in  tomatoes.  Select  round  tomatoes  of 
uniform  size.  Cut  off  the  stem  ends  and  take  out 
enough  of  the  pulp  to  leave  a  space  as  large  as  an 
egg.  Sprinkle  the  inside  with  salt  and  pepper.  Drop 
into  each  one  an  egg.  Place  the  filled  tomatoes  in  a 
baking-dish  with  a  little  hot  water,  and  bake  them 
about  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  eggs  are  set  and 
the  tomatoes  are  a  little  softened.  Serve  the  eggs  on 
rounds  of  bread  browned  in  butter.  No  sauce  is  re- 
quired with  this  dish. 

No.  3.  Eggs  baked  in  green  peppers,  Select  green  peppers  of 
uniform  size  and  shape.  Cut  off  the  stems  close  to  the 


54  LUNCHEONS 

peppers  so  they  will  stand  firmly.  Take  off  the  tops 
and  remove  the  seeds  and  ribs.  Parboil  them.  Re- 
move them  from  the  water  as  soon  as  they  are  a  little 
tender,  and  before  they  become  limp.  Break  an  egg 
into  each  one.  Set  them  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  little 
hot  water,  and  bake  them  slowly  about  fifteen  min- 
utes, or  until  the  eggs  are  set.  Arrange  them  on 
rounds  of  browned  bread  with  white  sauce  in  the 
dish. 

No.  4.  Scrambled  eggs  with  tomato.  Place  scrambled  eggs 
on  rounds  of  browned  bread,  and  on  the  top  of  each 
piece  place  a  slice  of  broiled  tomato  (see  page  97). 
Serve  with  or  without  a  white  sauce. 


CREAMED  POACHED  EGGS 

Poach  eggs,  the  French  style  preferred.  Lay  them  on 
rounds  of  bread  sauted  in  butter.  Arrange  them  symmetri- 
cally and  pour  over  them  a  plentiful  amount  of  white  sauce 
made  partly  of  stock,  and  having  the  yolk  of  one  or  two  eggs 
stirred  in  after  it  is  taken  from  the  fire.  Garnish  the  dish 
with  a  large  bunch  of  parsley,  or  a  bunch  of  nasturtiums. 

The  dish  may  be  varied  by  placing  a  very  thin  slice  of 
broiled  ham  under  each  egg ;  or  the  eggs  may  be  covered  with 
a  tomato  sauce. 

CREAMED  EGG  BASKETS 

Boil  the  eggs  hard.  Cut  them  in  two  lengthwise  and  re- 
move the  yolks.  Drop  the  whites  into  hot  water  so  they  will 
be  warm  when  needed  for  use.  Mash  the  yolks  and  mix  them 
with  a  little  white  sauce,  or  with  stock,  or  with  cream  and 
a  little  butter  and  salt.  Beat  the  mixture  until  it  is  smooth 


NO.  30.      CREAMED  POACHED  EGGS 


NO.   31.      CKKAMKD  EGG  BASKETS  ON   BEAN   PCKEE. 


NO.   32.      POACHED  EGGS  WITH  GREENS. 


No.  33.     SPANISH  E(;GS. 


EGGS  55 

and  light.  Press  the  paste  through  a  pastry-bag  and  star 
tube  into  the  hollows  of  the  white  halves,  and  insert  handles 
made  of  thin  slices  of  celery  cut  from  the  green  ends. 
Arrange  the  little  baskets  on  a  bed  of  any  kind  of  well- 
seasoned  vegetable. 

In  illustration  the  center  is  bean  puree  ^(see    page    98) 
pressed  through  a  pastry-bag. 


POACHED  EGGS  WITH  GREENS 

Boil  green  leaves  of  lettuce  until  tender,  drain  them,  chop 
them  fine,  and  season  with  a  little  white  sauce.  Cover  rounds 
of  bread,  which  have  been  browned  in  butter,  with  the  let- 
tuce; or,  if  more  convenient,  with  well-seasoned  creamed 
spinach.  Make  nests  of  the  green,  leaving  the  edges  of  the 
toast  clean,  with  a  border  one  half  inch  wide  around  the 
depression.  Place  in  each  one  an  egg  poached  in  the  French 
style ;  or  break  an  uncooked  egg  into  each  hollow,  and  place 
them  in  the  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set. 


EGGS  IN  NESTS 

"Whip  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  as  many  eggs  as  are 
needed.  Pile  it  irregularly  on  a  flat,  buttered  baking-dish, 
and  make  depressions  in  it  here  and  there.  Sprinkle  the  hol- 
lows with  salt  and  pepper  and  drop  into  each  one  the  yolk 
of  an  egg.  Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each  yolk.  Place 
the  dish  in  a  moderate  oven  for  five  to  eight  minutes.  Serve 
at  once. 

The  yolks  can  be  conveniently  kept  in  the  half  shells  until 
needed. 


56  LUNCHEONS 

SPANISH  EGGS 

Cover  the  bottom  of  an  earthen  baking-dish  with  well-sea- 
soned tomato  puree.  Arrange  on  it  poached  eggs,  leaving 
spaces  to  show  the  red  color.  Lay  between  the  eggs  whole 
small  sausages,  already  cooked,  or  sausages  cut  in  inch 
lengths.  Place  a  bit  of  butter  on  each  egg  and  set  the  dish 
in  the  oven  to  heat  it  only. 

EGGS  FAUCI 

No.  1.  Boil  until  hard  as  many  eggs  as  are  needed.  Cut 
them  in  two  lengthwise.  Remove  the  yolks  and 
mash  them.  To  six  yolks  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
crumb  of  bread,  softened  with  water,  one  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley.  Mix  well.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  add  the  egg  mixture 
with  enough  milk  or  stock  to  moisten  it,  but  not 
enough  to  make  it  lose  consistency.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  A  mushroom  or 
a  chicken  liver  chopped  fine  added  to  the  farce  im- 
proves its  flavor.  Fill  the  whites  of  the  eggs  with  the 
farce,  and  what  is  left  make  a  mound  on  the 

serving-dish.  Pour  a  white  sauce  over  it  and  arrange 
the  stuffed  eggs  on  it ;  or  cut  the  eggs  in  two  cross- 
wise and  fill  the  cups  with  farce,  molding  it  to  look 
like  whole  yolks.  Cut  a  small  slice  off  the  ends  so  they 
will  stand.  Arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  white 
sauce  around  them. 

No.  2.  Boil  until  hard  a  dozen  eggs,  cut  them  in  two  length- 
wise and  remove  the  yolks.  Place  the  whites  m  cold 
water  to  keep  them  white  until  ready  to  use  them. 
Put  in  a  chopping-bowl  the  breast  of  a  fowl  which 


NO.  34.  EGGS  FARCI,  NO.  1. 


NO.  35.  EGGS  FARCI,  NO.  2. 


NO.  36.      EGGS  WITH  GIBLET  SAUCE. 


NO.  37.      EGG*   A    I/AUROKi:   IX  CLT«. 


EGGS  57 

has  been  boiled  for  chicken  stock,  the  yolks  of  the 
boiled  eggs,  two  fresh  mushrooms  sauted,  one  half 
of  a  truffle,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  crumb  of  bread.  Chop 
all  together  to  a  fine  mince.  Place  in  a  sauce- 
pan two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  onion  juice.  When  the  butter  bubbles  add  the 
chopped  mixture  and  moisten  it  with  enough  chicken 
stock  to  make  it  of  the  right  consistency  for  filling 
the  egg  cups.  Season  it  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt, 
one  half  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  nut- 
meg, and  stir  until  it  is  hot.  Place  the  whites  in  hot 
water  to  heat  them,  then  fill  each  one  with  the  hot 
farce,  rounding  it  to  look  like  a  whole  yolk. 

Make  a  sauce  as  follows.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  enough  to  break  them,  stir  them  into  a  cupful 
of  cream,  and  add  this  to  the  farce  left  after  filling 
the  cups.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  long  enough  to  set  the 
eggs.  If  not  soft  enough,  add  stock  to  make  it  the 
consistency  of  thick  cream.  Pour  this  sauce  on  a 
platter  and  arrange  the  stuffed  eggs  on  it  in  lines  or 
in  circles. 

No.  3.  With  giblet  sauce.  Prepare  eggs  as  in  No.  1.  Add 
chopped  giblets  to  a  brown  sauce.  Spread  the  sauce 
on  a  dish  and  place  the  stuffed  eggs  upon  it. 


EGGS  A  L'ATJRORE 

Chop  the  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  into  fine  dice.  Mix 
them  with  enough  white  sauce  to  make  them  creamy.  Crumb 
the  yolks  by  pressing  them  through  a  coarse  sieve  or  a  col- 
ander, and  spread  them  over  the  creamed  whites. 


58  LUNCHEONS 

SCRAMBLED  EGOS  WITH  CALVES'   BRAINS 

To  a  pair  of  calves'  brains  use  three  or  four  eggs.  Scald 
the  brains  by  letting  them  lie  in  scalding  water  six  or  eight 
minutes.  Trim  them  and  cut  them  into  half -inch  dice.  Put 
them  in  a  saute-pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  cook 
them  until  they  look  white,  then  add  the  beaten  eggs  and 
stir  them  all  together,  using  a  fork,  until  the  eggs  are  cooked. 
Add  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  quarter  teaspoonful 
of  pepper. 

For  other  egg  dishes,  see  "Century  Cook  Book,"  page  261. 


CHAPTEE  V 
FOURTH  COURSE 

SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH 


SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH 

Sauted  Oysters  Shad  Eoe  Croquettes 

Fried  Oysters  with  Cold  Slaw  Fillets  of  Fish,  Fried 

Oysters  a  la  Newburg  Eolled  Fillets  of  Flounder 

Fried  Scallops  Baked  Fillets  of  Fish  with  Sauce 

Scallops  on  the  Shell  Fillets  of  Fish  with  Mushrooms 

Creamed  Lobster  Creamed  Fish  Garnished  with  Po- 

Broiled  Lobster  tatoes 

Broiled  Smelts  Fish  a  la  Japonnaise 

Broiled  Shad  Eoe 


SAUTED  OYSTEES 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan;  when 
it  is  hot  add  as  many  drained  oysters  as  will  make  two  cup- 
fuls.  Add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice.  Shake  them  in  the  pan  until  the  gills  are 
curled,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very  fine. 
Turn  them  upon  slices  of  toasted  bread  on  a  hot  platter. 

FRIED  OYSTERS  WITH  COLD  SLAW 

Use  box  oysters.  These  are  large  in  size  and  cost  two  cents 
each. 

Lay  the  oysters  on  a  cloth  to  dry  them.  Koll  them  in 
cracker  dust,  then  in  egg  diluted  with  a  little  milk  and 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  again  cover  them  with 
cracker  dust.  Lay  them  in  a  frying-basket  and  fry  them 
in  smoking-hot  fat  just  long  enough  to  give  them  a  light- 
brown  color.  Oysters  toughen  if  cooked  too  long.  Prepare 
only  four  at  a  time,  as  more  lower  the  temperature  of  the 
fat  too  much,  and  if  they  are  rolled  before  the  moment  of 
frying  they  moisten  the  cracker  dust.  Place  them  on  a  paper 
on  the  hot  shelf  until  all  are  done. 

Fold  a  small  napkin  and  place  it  in  the  center  of  a  cold 
platter.  Pile  the  oysters  on  the  napkin  and  make  a  wreath 
around  them  of  cold  slaw. 

COLD  SLAW 

Cut  cabbage  into  fine  shreds.  Put  in  a  saucepan  a  half 
cupful  of  weak  vinegar,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  a  half  tea- 

61 


62  LUNCHEONS 

spoonful  of  English  mustard,  a  dash  of  pepper,  a  teaspoon- 
f  ul  of  salt  and  of  sugar.  Beat  them  together,  then  place  them 
on  the  fire  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  thickened.  Pour 
it,  while  hot,  over  the  cabbage  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 

OYSTERS  A  LA  NEWBURG 

Place  twenty-five  large  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
and  one  half  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  white 
wine  or  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt.  Cook  until  the  oysters  are  plump,  then  add  half  a 
cupful  of  mushrooms  cut  into  quarters,  and  a  chopped  truffle, 
if  convenient.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  into  a  cupful  of 
cream,  turn  it  into  the  oyster  mixture,  and  let  it  get  hot  and 
a  little  thickened,  without  boiling.  Turn  it  into  a  hot  dish 
and  garnish  with  croutons. 

Oysters  toughen  if  cooked  too  long,  and  cream  curdles 
easily  when  added  to  a  mixture  which  has  acid  in  it,  so  it  is 
necessary  to  prepare  this  dish  quickly  and  to  serve  it  at  once. 

SCALLOPS 

Scallops  are  the  adductor  muscle  of  a  large  pecten,  a  mol- 
lusk  commonly  known  as  scallop. 

TRIED  SCALLOPS 

Marinate  the  scallops  in  a  mixture  of  oil,  lemon  juice,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Roll  them  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  egg,  and  again 
in  cracker  dust  or  white  bread  crumbs.  Fry  them  in  smok- 
ing-hot  fat  to  a  golden  color. 

Prepare  but  a  few  at  a  time  so  the  covering  will  not  be 
dampened,  serve  on  a  napkin  with  quarters  of  lemon,  and 
sprinkle  over  them  parsley  chopped  very  fine. 


NO.  38.      FRIED  OYSTERS   WITH  COLD  SLAW. 


XO    39.      CREAMED   LOBSTER. 


SHELL-FISH  —  LOBSTEES  —  FISH  63 

SCALLOPS  ON  THE   SHELL 

Discard  the  black  ring.  Cut  the  scallops  into  quarters. 
Place  them  in  the  scallop  shells.  Dredge  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  chopped  parsley,  then  cover  them  with  a  layer 
of  chopped  fresh,  or  canned,  mushrooms,  some  bits  of  but- 
ter, a  teaspoonful  of  white  wine  or  of  lemon  juice,  for  each 
shell,  and  lastly  with  bread  crumbs  moistened  with  butter. 
Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

CREAMED  LOBSTER 

Cut  the  meat  of  boiled  lobster  into  inch  dice.  Put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a  teaspoonful  of  grated 
onion,  let  them  cook  a  minute,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour.  Stir  for  a  few  minutes  to  cook  the  flour,  and  then  add 
slowly  a  cupful  of  stock  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
or  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  white  wine.  When  all  this 
thickens  add  the  lobster  meat,  turning  it  carefully  so  as  not 
to  break  it.  When  the  meat  is  heated  remove  it  from  the 
fire  and  mix  in  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  cream  which  has  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  in  it.  Replace  it  on  the  fire  for  just  a 
minute. 

Serve  in  fontage  cups  or  as  in  illustration  No.  39. 

For  Lobster  Newburg  and  other  lobster  dishes,  see  "Cen- 
tury Cook  Book,"  page  136. 

BROILED  LOBSTER 

Parboil  a  lobster.  As  soon  as  it  begins  to  turn  red  take  it 
out.  Split  it  in  two  down  the  back.  Remove  and  discard 
the  stomach  and  intestine.  Remove  the  green  and  the  coral. 

Broil  it  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  with  the  shell  side  to  the 
fire,  but  turn  the  flesh  side  to  the  coals  for  a  minute  before 
removing  it,  then  at  once  season  it  with  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt. 


64  LUNCHEONS 

Mix  the  green,  which  is  the  liver,  and  the  coral  with  melted 
butter  and  use  it  as  a  sauce. 

BROILED  SMELTS 

Select  large  smelts  of  equal  size.  Have  them  split  down 
the  back,  the  head  and  tail  left  on.  Dip  them  in  melted  but- 
ter and  broil  them  until  they  are  tender.  Lay  them  evenly 
on  a  hot  dish  and  spread  them  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter 
(see  page  103). 

If  convenient,  arrange  a  wreath  of  watercress  around  the 
dish. 

BROILED  SHAD  ROE 

Wash  and  dry  the  roes,  then  broil  them  very  slowly  and 
keep  them  moistened  with  butter  to  prevent  the  skin  from 
breaking.  They  may  also  be  cooked  by  sauteing  them  in  but- 
ter ;  or  they  may  be  baked  in  the  oven  with  a  little  stock  or 
water  in  the  pan  to  baste  them  with.  Cook  them  brown. 
Cover  the  top  with  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  lemon 
juice,  and  sprinkle  them  with  chopped  parsley.  Garnish 
with  lemon  and  watercress  and  serve  some  of  the  watercress 
with  each  portion.  Serve  them  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter. 

SHAD  ROE  CROQUETTES 

Boil  shad  roes  in  salted,  acidulated  water  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, letting  the  water  simmer  only,  so  that  the  skin  will  not 
break.  When  they  are  cold  cut  them,  using  a  sharp  knife, 
into  slices  one  and  one  half  inches  thick.  Sprinkle  them  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice.  Eoll  them  first  in  egg,  then 
in  bread  crumbs  or  cracker  dust,  and  fry  them  in  smoking- 
hot  fat  to  a  light  brown  color.  Garnish  with  watercress  and 
serve  them  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter. 


NO.   40.     BROILED  SMELTS. 


NO.   41.      BROILED   SHAD  ROE. 


NO.   42.      SHAD  ROE  CROQUETTES. 


SHELL-FISH—LOBSTERS—FISH  65 

FILLETS  OF  FISH 

Fillets  of  fish  are  the  flesh  of  the  fish  freed  from  the  skin 
and  bones.  (See  " Century  Cook  Book,"  page  112.)  The 
fillets  of  flounder  are  used  to  imitate  sole,  a  variety  of  fish 
much  esteemed  in  France  and  England.  Sheepshead  and 
other  smaller  fish  also  make  good  fillets. 

FRIED   FILLETS  OF  FISH 

Marinate  the  fillets  by  letting  them  lie  in  a  mixture  of  oil, 
salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley.  Take  the 
fillets  from  the  marinade,  roll  them  first  in  flour,  then  in 
egg,  and  then  in  white  bread  crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf. 
Fry  them  to  a  lemon  color  in  smoking-hot  fat.  They  must 
not  be  cooked  too  long  or  they  will  become  dry.  They  may 
also  be  cooked  by  sauteing,  using  half  butter  and  half  lard. 
Prepare  one  fillet  at  a  time,  for  the  covering  of  flour  and 
crumbs  will  become  damp  if  it  stands  long,  and  then  will 
not  crisp.  If  the  fillets  are  small,  serve  them  piled  in  crossed 
layers  on  a  napkin  and  garnish  with  quarters  of  lemon. 
If  they  are  large,  serve  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter  or  with 
tartare  sauce  and  garnish  with  watercress. 

ROLLED   FILLETS   OF   FLOUNDER 

Sprinkle  each  fillet  with  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  it  with 
a  mixture  made  of  butter,  lemon  juice,  and  parsley  cut  in 
pieces,  not  chopped  fine.  Fold  the  fillet  over,  roll  it,  and 
fasten  it  with  a  wooden  toothpick  or  small  skewer.  Stand 
the  rolled  fillets  on  end  in  a  baking-pan,  put  a  piece  of  butter 
on  the  top  of  each  one,  and  pour  over  the  whole  a  half  cupful 
of  white  cooking  wine  (California  sauterne).  Bake  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender,  and 
baste  them  frequently.  Arrange  the  fillets  symmetrically  on 
a  platter.  Put  a  piece  of  parsley  in  the  top  of  each  one,  and 


66  LUNCHEONS 

place  in  the  center  of  the  dish  a  lemon  cut  into  the  shape  of 
a  basket.  Sprinkle  the  exposed  pulp  of  the  lemon  with 
chopped  parsley. 

Make  a  sauce  to  serve  with  the  fish  as  follows :  Add  to  the 
drippings,  in  the  pan  in  which  the  fish  was  cooked,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  stir  constantly  until  the  flour  is  cooked, 
then  add  enough  stock  to  make  a  creamy  sauce.  Add  pepper 
and  salt  if  necessary. 

BAKED   FILLETS   OF   FISH  WITH   SAUCE 

Arrange  evenly  on  a  baking-platter  fillets  of  flounder  or 
of  sheepshead,  or  slices  of  halibut  or  codfish  cut  one  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Make  a  sauce  as  follows:  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  a  half  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
cook  until  the  butter  has  browned,  then  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour  and  stir  until  the  flour  has  browned.  Take  it  off 
the  fire  and  add  very  slowly  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  soup 
stock,  stirring  constantly  to  keep  the  mixture  smooth.  Add 
a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very  fine,  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  half  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and,  if  convenient,  a  teaspoonful  of  mushroom 
catsup,  or  a  half  cupful  of  liquor  from  a  can  of  mush- 
rooms, or  a  half  cupful  of  juice  strained  from  a  can  of 
tomatoes.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish,  lifting  the  fillets  a 
little  to  let  the  sauce  run  under  them.  Place  the  dish  in  the 
oven  and  cook  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  fish  is  tender. 
If  the  sauce  dries  away  too  much,  baste  the  fish  with  stock. 
The  cooked  sauce  should  have  the  consistency  of  cream. 

When  taken  from  the  oven  sprinkle  the  top  with  bread 
crumbs  browned  in  butter  and  ornament  with  mashed 
potato  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag  and  star  tube,  making 
a  design  that  will  cover  the  edges  of  the  platter  where  the 
sauce  has  stained  it.  Set  the  hot  platter  on  a  second  platter 
to  serve. 


NO.  43.      ROLLED  FILLETS  OF  FLOUNDER.      A  PIECE  OF  PARSLEY  PLACED 

IN  THE  TOP  OF  EACH  ONE  ;   A  LEMON  BASKET  IN  CENTER 

AND  QUARTERS  OF  LEMON  BETWEEN  THE  FILLETS. 


NO.   44.      BAKED  FILLETS  OF  FISH    WITH   MUSHROOMS. 


NO.   45.      CREAMED   FISH  GARNISHED   WITH   POTATO. 


NO.  46.     FISH  A  LA  JAPONNAISE,  PREPARED  FOR  BAKING  AND 
SHOWING  HOW  IT  MAY  BE  GARNISHED. 


No.  47.      SLICED  CUCUMBKR   AROUND  A  MOl'XD  OF   ICE.      TO   SERVE   WITH  FISH. 


'N 


NO.    4«.      MAITRE   D'HOTEL  BUTTER. 


SHELL-FISH— LOBSTERS— FISH  67 

Creamed  hashed  fish  can  be  served  in  the  same  manner. 
After  the  fish  has  been  mixed  with  the  sauce  spread  it 
smoothly  on  the  baking-platter,  cover  the  top  with  buttered 
bread  crumbs,  and  set  it  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

FILLETS   OF   FISH  WITH   MUSHROOMS 

Take  fillets  of  flounder,  season  them  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Take  half  a  can  or  more  of  mushrooms,  a  slice  of  onion, 
and  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  chop  them  all  fine ;  add  a  cupful 
of  stock  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry.  Spread  a  part  of  this 
mixture  on  the  bottom  of  a  platter  that  can  be  used  in  the 
oven.  Lay  the  fillets  of  fish  on  the  mixture.  Cover  them 
with  the  rest  of  the  mixture,  then  with  bread  crumbs  and 
with  small  pieces  of  butter.  Bake  forty  minutes  or  until  the 
fillets  are  tender.  Heat  the  rest  of  the  mushrooms  in  a  little 
stock.  Place  them  around  the  edges  of  the  dish  and  pour  the 
stock  over  the  whole  if  the  fillets  are  at  all  dry.  This  dish 
should  be  very  moist. 

CREAMED   FISH   GARNISHED  WITH  POTATOES 

Make  a  good  white  sauce,  or  any  other  sauce  preferred. 
Cut  cold  boiled  fish  in  pieces  one  or  two  inches  across  and 
heat  them  in  the  sauce  without  breaking  them.  Use  a  plenti- 
ful amount  of  the  sauce.  Turn  the  fish  mixture  on  to  a  platter 
and  sprinkle  over  the  top  a  little  parsley  chopped  very  fine. 

Season  some  mashed  potato  with  salt,  butter,  and  milk, 
and  beat  it  until  it  is  light  and  white.  Press  it  through  a 
pastry-bag  with  star  tube  into  rosettes,  forming  a  wreath 
around  the  creamed  fish. 

FISH  A  LA  JAPONNAISE 

Make  a  creamed  mince  of  any  kind  of  fish,  or  use  a  fish 
forcemeat.  Canned  salmon  is  very  good  for  the  purpose. 


68  LUNCHEONS 

Place  the  creamed  fish  on  a  piece  of  stiff  paper  and  mold 
it  into  the  form  of  a  fish.  Roll  some  pie  paste  very  thin. 
Lay  a  piece  of  the  paste  on  one  end  of  the  mince  and  shape 
it  into  the  form  of  a  fish's  tail.  Cut  the  paste  into  circles 
of  half  an  inch  diameter,  using  a  pastry-tube  if  a  small 
vegetable-cutter  is  not  at  hand.  Beginning  at  the  tail,  cover 
the  molded  fish  with  little  rounds  of  paste,  placing  them  in 
even  overlapping  layers  to  imitate  scales,  and  mold  a  piece 
of  pastry  to  imitate  a  head  and  fins.  Use  half  a  cranberry 
or  a  turned  vegetable  to  imitate  an  eye.  Brush  the  paste 
over  lightly  with  yolk  of  egg  and  place  it  in  the  oven  to 
brown.  Slip  it  carefully  off  the  baking-sheet  on  to  the  serv- 
ing platter.  Trim  off  the  paper  that  projects  and  garnish. 

Illustration  No.  46  shows  a  fish  ready  to  bake  and  the  man- 
ner in  which  it  may  be  garnished. 


CHAPTER  VI 
FIFTH  OR  SEVENTH  COURSE 

ENTRIES 


ENTKEES 


Kissoles 
Vol-au-vent 
Sweetbreads,  Baked 
Sweetbreads,  Glazed 
Sweetbreads,  Coquilles  of 
Calf's  Brains  a  la  Poulette 
Calf's  Brains  a  1'Aurore 
Calf's    Brains   with    Hollandaise 

Sauce 
Calf's  Brains  with  Black  Butter 


Croquettes 

Timbales  of  Chicken 

Timbales  of  Liver 

Mushrooms,  Baked 

Mushrooms,  Stuffed 

Tomatoes,  Stuffed 

Green  Peppers,  Stuffed 

Baked  Tomatoes  and  Fontage  Cups 

Jardiniere 

Vegetarian  Dish 


RISSOLES 

Roll  puff  paste  about  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Put 
a  teaspoonful  of  meat  of  any  kind  at  intervals  on  the  paste, 
about  three  inches  from  the  edge.  Moisten  the  paste  around 
the  meat-ball,  fold  over  the  paste,  and  press  it  lightly  around 
the  meat.  Stamp  it  with  a  fluted  biscuit-cutter  into  half  cir- 
cles, leaving  the  meat  on  the  straight  side  and  an  inch  of 
paste  around  the  meat  on  the  round  side.  Egg  the  top  and 
bake  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

VOL-AIT-VENT 

Roll  puff  paste  (see  page  154)  three  quarters  of  an  inch 
to  an  inch  in  thickness.  Stamp  it  with  a  cutter,  or  if  this 
is  not  convenient  use  a  tin,  of  the  size  desired,  for  a  gage ; 
lay  the  tin  lightly  on  the  paste,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
around  it  with  a  quick,  firm  stroke  so  as  to  press  the  paste 
as  little  as  possible;  then  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  cut  a 
ring  around  the  form,  leaving  a  border  about  an  inch  wide, 
and  do  not  let  the  knife  penetrate  the  paste  more  than  an 
eighth  of  an  inch.  Brush  the  top  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
dilute  it  with  a  little  water,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Bake 
it  in  a  hot  oven  as  directed  for  puff  paste  for  thirty  minutes, 
and  do  not  open  the  oven  door  during  the  first  fifteen  min- 
utes. It  should  rise  to  about  three  times  its  usual  thickness. 
When  it  is  well  dried  and  a  good  light-brown  color,  remove 
it  from  the  oven  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
carefully  lift  out  the  centerpiece  and  remove  all  the  un- 

71 


72  LUNCHEONS 

cooked  paste.  Set  it  in  the  oven  again  to  dry  the  inside. 
The  uncooked  pieces  can  also  be  returned  to  the  oven  for 
a  few  minutes,  and  when  dry  be  put  back  into  the  shell. 

Although  puff  paste  is  better  when  used  at  once,  it  will 
keep  very  well  for  several  days,  and  will  be  perfectly  crisp 
and  tender  if  well  heated  in  the  oven  just  before  being 
used. 

When  ready  to  serve  fill  the  center  with  any  salpicon, 
place  the  little  cover  on  top,  and  set  the  vol-au-vent  on  a 
lace-paper.  The  filling  must  not  be  put  in  until  just  before 
sending  it  to  the  table,  as  it  will  soften  the  pastry  if  it  stands 
in  it  for  any  length  of  time. 

SALPICON 

For  filling  vol-au-vent  or  patty  shells. 

Salpicon  is  made  of  cooked  chicken,  sweetbreads,  veal,  or 
calf's  brains  cut  into  small  dice,  mixed  with  mushrooms,  a 
little  chopped  truffle  and  chopped  tongue.  One  meat  alone, 
or  a  combination  of  two  or  more,  may  be  used.  The  mixture 
is  then  combined  with  enough  good  sauce  to  make  it  creamy. 
A  white  sauce  should  be  used  with  white  meats;  a  brown 
sauce  when  the  dark  meat  and  livers  of  chicken  are  used. 
(See  "Century  Cook  Book,"  pages  80-299.) 

A  plain  white  sauce  is  made  as  follows:  Put  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  When  the  butter  is  hot  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  them  together  for  a  few  min- 
utes, not  letting  them  brown ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  a 
cupful  of  stock.  Add  the  liquor  very  slowly  at  first,  stirring 
constantly  to  keep  it  smooth.  Return  the  sauce  to  the  fire, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  a  little  cream,  if  convenient.  Stir  constantly  until  the 
sauce  is  thickened.  Lastly,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  one  or 
two  eggs  to  the  sauce  after  it  has  been  taken  off  the  fire. 


NO.  49.     RISSOLES. 


NO.  50.      VOL-AU-VENT. 


NO.   51.      BAKED  SWEETBREADS  WITH  SALT  FORK   ON  TOP. 


ENTREES  73 

SWEETBREADS 

Sweetbreads  are  the  thymus  gland  and  the  pancreas  of 
calves  and  lambs.  They  are  commonly  called  by  butchers 
the  throat  and  the  stomach,  or  heart,  sweetbreads.  The 
former  is  the  larger,  the  latter  is  the  whiter,  rounder,  and 
more  delicate. 

TO  PREPARE   SWEETBREADS 

Soak  the  sweetbreads  in  cold  water  for  two  hours,  changing 
the  water  several  times.  Put  them  on  the  fire  in  cold  water. 
When  they  are  whitened  and  firm  to  the  touch,  or  parboiled, 
remove  and  immerse  them  again  in  cold  water  to  blanch  them. 
Remove  all  the  pipes,  fibers,  and  fatty  substance.  Roll  each 
one  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  draw  the  cloth  tight  and  tie 
it  at  the  ends,  pressing  the  sweetbread  into  an  oval  shape. 
Place  them  under  a  light  weight  for  several  hours. 

BAKED   SWEETBREADS 

Parboil  and  blanch  the  sweetbreads.  Marinate  them  by 
standing  them  for  two  hours  in  a  mixture  of  one  beaten  egg, 
a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  quarter  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley.  Turn  them  in  the  marinade  occa- 
sionally so  they  will  absorb  the  seasoning.  Roll  them  in 
cracker  dust  and  place  them  in  a  pan  on  very  thin  slices 
of  salt  pork,  and  place  a  thin  slice  of  pork  on  top  of  each 
one.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
they  are  tender  and  brown.  The  pork  will  crisp  and  the 
sweetbread  will  brown  around  it. 

Serve  with  a  sauce  made  as  follows :  Brown  a  little  flour 
in  the  drippings  left  in  the  pan,  then  add  a  little  flour  or 
stock,  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  what  is  left  of  the  marinade. 


74  LUNCHEONS 

Stir  it  until  it  has  the  consistency  of  thick  cream  and  strain 
it  on  to  the  platter.    Place  the  sweetbreads  upon  the  sauce. 

GLAZED   SWEETBREADS 

Place  sweetbreads,  prepared  as  directed  on  page  73,  in  a 
saute-pan  with  butter  and  a  few  slices  of  onion.  Saute 
them  for  a  few  minutes  on  both  sides,  then  place  them  in 
the  oven  to  finish  cooking.  Put  a  little  stock  in  the  baking- 
pan  and  baste  them  frequently  to  brown  and  glaze  them. 
Serve  them  as  in  illustration,  or  place  them  around  a  pile  of 
green  peas. 

COQUILLES  OF  SWEETBREADS 

Parboil  one  pair  of  sweetbreads.  Trim  and  put  them  under 
a  light  weight  to  cool.  When  they  are  cold  and  firm  cut 
them  into  dice.  Saute  them  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  add  a  cupful  of  button  mushrooms  cut 
in  quarters,  a  tablespoonful  of  white  wine  or  of  lemon  juice, 
a  clash  of  pepper,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  them 
until  tender,  then  add  a  white  sauce  as  given  below,  and  turn 
over  the  mixture  until  it  is  creamy.  Fill  shells  with  the 
mixture,  cover  the  tops  with  white  bread  crumbs  wet  with 
melted  butter,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Chicken,  turkey,  or  veal  can  be  used  instead  of  sweetbreads 
in  the  same  way. 

Sauce :  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  when 
it  bubbles,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Cook  the  flour  a 
few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  brown.  Remove  it  from  the  fire 
and  add,  while  stirring1  all  the  time,  a  half  cupful  of  stock, 
chicken  stock  preferred,  a  dash  of  nutmeg  and  of  pepper, 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Put  the  saucepan  on  the  fire 
again  and  stir  until  the  sauce  has  thickened,  then  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 


NO.   52.      GLAZED  SWEETBREADS. 


NO.   53.      COQCILLES  OF  SWEETBREADS. 


ENTREES  75 

Any  pretty  bivalve  shell  of  suitable  size  may  be  used  for 
holding  this  or  other  creamed  mixtures.  The  illustration 
shows  pecten  and  cardium  shells. 

TO  PREPARE   CALF'S  BRAINS 

Calf 's  brains,  in  whatever  way  they  are  to  be  served,  must 
be  prepared  in  the  following  manner:  Soak  the  brains  in 
cold  water  for  some  time  to  extract  all  the  blood.  Trim  them, 
removing  the  membranes  and  fibers,  without  breaking  the 
brains  apart.  Place  them  in  hot  water  with  a  bay-leaf,  soup 
vegetables,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  Cook  them  for  half  an  hour,  let- 
ting the  water  simmer  only.  When  done  immerse  them  in 
cold  water  to  blanch  them. 

CALF'S  BRAINS 

No.  1.  A  la  poulette.  Cut  the  brains  in  halves  or  quarters. 
Arrange  them  in  a  circle  around  mushrooms  and 
pour  over  the  whole  a  white  sauce  made  partly  of 
stock,  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  little 
cream  added  after  the  sauce  is  taken  from  the  fire. 
Garnish  with  croutons  or  cut  the  brains  into  large 
dice,  mix  them  with  the  same  sauce,  and  serve  them 
in  individual  cups. 

No.  2.  A  1'aurore.  Cut  the  brains  into  dice ;  add  the  chopped 
whites  of  three  or  four  hard-boiled  eggs  to  each  pair 
of  brains.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  chopped 
very  fine,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Moisten  with 
white  sauce  and  place  the  mixture  in  a  baking-dish. 
Cover  the  top  with  crumbed  yolks,  and  over  the  yolks 
spread  a  thin  layer  of  white  bread  crumbs  wet  with 
butter.  Set  the  dish  in  the  oven  to  brown  the  crumbs. 


76  LUNCHEONS 

No.  3.  With  Hollandaise  sauce.  Cut  the  brains  in  halves. 
Place  each  piece  on  a  round  of  bread  which  has  been 
browned  in  butter.  Pour  over  the  whole  a  Hollan- 
daise sauce,  or  a  white  sauce  to  which  has  been  added, 
after  taking  it  from  the  fire,  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very  fine. 

No.  4.  With  black  butter.  Cut  the  brains  into  thick  slices. 
Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan  until 
it  is  brown.  Lay  in  the  slices  of  brains  and  color  them 
on  both  sides.  Arrange  them  in  a  dish,  sprinkle  them 
with  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt.  Add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  to  the  butter,  and  strain  it  over 
the  brains. 

CROQUETTES 

Croquettes  can  be  made  of  chicken  or  turkey  or  veal,  alone, 
but  are  much  nicer  when  the  meat  is  mixed  with  sweet- 
breads or  calf's  brains  and  mushrooms.     The  meat  mixture 
must  be  chopped  very  fine. 
Make  a  sauce  as  follows : 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  into  a  saucepan.    When  it  bubbles  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  and  cook  it  a  few  minutes  without  brown- 
ing, then  add  slowly,  so  as  to  keep  it  smooth, 
A  cupful  of  jellied  stock, 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
1  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
A  dash  of  paprika, 
A  dash  of  celery  salt, 
A  dash  of  nutmeg. 

Cook  until  the  sauce  lias  thickened  a  little.  Remove  it 
from  the  fire,  stir  in  a  beaten  egg  and  two  cupfuls  of  minced 
meat.  Turn  it  on  to  a  tin  platter  and  place  it  on  the  ice  to  set. 


NO.   54.      CHICKEN   CKOQUETTES. 


NO.   55.      TIMBALES  OF  CHICKEN. 


ENTREES  77 

When  the  mixture  is  set  mold  the  croquettes  into  shapes 
pointed  at  one  end.  Cover  them  with  egg  diluted  with  a  very 
little  water,  to  break  the  stringiness  of  the  whites,  then  cover 
them  with  bread  crumbs.  Crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf  give 
a  better  color  than  dried  crumbs  composed  partly  of  crusts. 
Fry  the  croquettes  in  smoking-hot  fat  to  a  light-brown  color, 
and  until  a  thin  crust  is  formed.  Place  them  on  paper  in  the 
open  oven  to  dry  and  keep  hot  until  all  are  fried.  Arrange 
them  symmetrically  on  a  platter  and  stick  a  paper  frill  into 
the  pointed  end  of  each  one.  These  frills  are  fastened  to  a 
little  stick.  They  can  be  bought  at  confectioners'. 

It  is  important  to  use  for  the  sauce  stock  which  jellies,  as  it 
hardens  the  mixture  and  makes  it  easy  to  mold,  while  it 
softens  when  the  croquettes  are  fried,  making  them  very 
creamy.  Stock  will  jelly  if  a  knuckle  of  veal  is  used  in  mak- 
ing it.  If  jellied  stock  is  not  at  hand,  put  a  level  teaspoonful 
of  soaked  gelatine  into  a  cupful  of  any  stock  or  of  milk. 

CHICKEN  TIMBALES 

Lay  raw  chicken  breasts  on  a  board  and  scrape  off  the  meat, 
thus  separating  it  from  the  large  fibers.  Put  the  scraped 
meat  in  a  mortar  with  the  white  of  an  egg  and  pound  it  to 
separate  it  still  more  from  the  fibers,  then  rub  it  through 
a  puree  sieve. 

Soak  some  crumb  of  bread  with  milk,  stir  it  to  a  smooth 
paste,  and  cook  it  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  This 
makes  a  panada. 

Take  a  half  cupful  of  the  fine  chicken  meat,  a  quarter  of  a 
cupful  of  panada,  one  egg,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash 
of  pepper  and  of  nutmeg.  Beat  them  all  well  together,  then 
fold  in  lightly  a  half  cupful  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff 
froth. 

This  quantity  of  material  will  make  six  individual  tim- 
bales. 


78  LUNCHEONS 

Butter  the  timbale  molds  well,  ornament  them  with  slices 
of  truffle  cut  into  fancy  shapes,  or  with  chopped  truffle 
sprinkled  over  the  surface.  Put  the  mixture  into  the  molds 
carefully  with  a  small  spoon  so  as  not  to  disarrange  the 
decoration,  and  fill  them  to  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of 
the  top.  Set  them  in  a  pan  of  hot  water.  Cover  them  with 
a  greased  paper  and  poach  them  in  the  oven  for  five  to  eight 
minutes,  or  until  they  are  firm  to  the  touch. 

Turn  the  timbales  on  to  a  flat  dish  and  pour  around  them  a 
white  sauce  made  with  chicken  stock  and  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  diluted  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  added  the 
last  thing.  (See  Allemande  and  Poulette  sauces,  "Century 
Cook  Book,"  pages  279-280.) 

LIVER  TIMBALES 

Cut  two  pounds  of  liver  into  large  pieces  and  rub  them 
through  a  grater. 

Moisten  a  half  cupful  of  crumb  of  bread  and  a  half  cupful 
of  flour  with  a  cupful  of  milk. 

Fry  the  slices  of  half  an  onion  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  until  they  are  tender,  then  remove  them  and  turn  into 
the  pan  the  mixture  of  bread,  flour,  and  milk.  Stir  until  it 
is  cooked  to  a  smooth  paste. 

Put  into  a  bowl  two  cupfuls  of  liver  pulp,  the  bread  paste, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  dash 
of  paprika.  Mix  them  well  together  and  add,  one  at  a  time, 
four  eggs,  beating  in  each  one  well,  then  add  enough  cream 
to  make  rather  a  thin  batter.  Pass  the  whole  through  a 
puree  sieve.  Beat  it  well  again  and  turn  it  into  molds. 

This  amount  of  mixture  will  fill  twelve  individual  timbale 
molds  and  one  pint  mold,  the  latter  to  be  used  cold  (see 
page  127). 

Fill  the  individual  timbale  molds  to  within  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  of  the  top,  set  them  into  a  pan  of  hot  water,  cover  them 


NO.   56.     BAKED  MUSHROOMS  ON  TOAST.      THE  BREAD  STAMPED  IN  LEAF  SHAPES. 


NO.   .")T.      STl  FFKD  TOMATOES 


ENTE^ES  79 

with  a  greased  paper,  and  poach  them  in  the  oven  for  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  or  until  firm  to  the  touch. 

Turn  the  timbales  on  to  a  flat  dish  and  pour  around  them 
a  little  good  brown  sauce.  The  molds  may  be  ornamented, 
if  desired,  the  same  as  chicken  timbales,  using  the  white  of 
hard-boiled  eggs  instead  of  truffles. 

For  other  timbale  receipts,  see  "Century  Cook  Book," 
page  296. 

BAKED  MUSHROOMS 

Cut  the  mushroom  stems  off  even  with  the  caps.  Peel  the 
caps  and  stand  them  on  a  dish  with  the  gills  up.  Sprinkle 
them  with  pepper  and  salt  and  let  them  stand  until  moisture 
gathers  on  them.  Cut  sliced  bread  with  a  biscuit-cutter  into 
rounds,  or  if  convenient  use  a  fancy  cutter.  Illustration 
shows  bread  cut  with  a  leaf -shaped  stamp.  Dip  the  pieces 
of  bread  into  water  to  moisten  them,  but  do  not  let  them 
get  soggy.  Place  them  on  a  baking-tin  and  sprinkle  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  bits  of  butter.  Arrange  the  mushrooms 
on  them,  one  or  more  according  to  size,  with  the  gills  up. 
Bake  about  thirty  minutes,  or  until  tender. 

Watch  them  carefully  so  they  will  not  get  overdone  or  too 
dry.  Baste  with  melted  butter,  if  necessary,  while  they  are 
baking. 

STUFFED   MUSHROOMS 

Cut  the  stems  off  close  to  the  gills.  Peel  the  caps.  Cut  the 
stems  fine.  Saute  all  the  parts  together  in  butter.  Kemove 
the  caps  when  they  are  tender  and  before  they  lose  shape. 
After  the  caps  are  removed  add  six  drops  of  onion  juice 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Let  the  flour  cook  a  few  min- 
utes and  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  stock  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  minced  chicken  or  livers,  pepper,  and  salt,  and 
stir  until  the  mixture  is  thickened. 


80  LUNCHEONS 

Place  a  little  of  this  mixture  on  the  gills  of  each  mush- 
room. This  quantity  is  enough  for  six  or  eight  large  caps. 
Use  the  stuffed  mushrooms  for  garnishing  meat  dishes,  or 
serve  them  separately  as  an  entree  on  rounds  of  bread 
which  have  been  browned  in  butter. 

STUFFED  TOMATOES 

Select  smooth,  round  tomatoes  of  equal  size.  Cut  a  slice 
off  the  stem  end.  Remove  carefully  the  pulp  and  fill  the 
shells  with  any  of  the  mixtures  given  below.  Cover  the  top 
of  the  stuffing  with  bread  crumbs  moistened  with  melted 
butter.  Bake  them  about  one  half  hour,  or  until  they 'are 
tender,  but  not  fallen  out  of  shape.  Have  a  little  water  in 
the  bottom  of  the  baking-pan.  Use  them  for  garnishing  meat 
dishes,  or  serve  them  on  rounds  of  browned  bread  as  an 
entree. 

STUFFING  FOE  TOMATOES 

No.  1.  Chop  fine  a  half  cupful  of  canned  mushrooms,  add 
a  half  or  three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  crumb  of 
bread  and  the  pulp  taken  from  six  tomatoes,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  ham  or  of  chicken,  if  conve- 
nient, a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  six  drops 
of  onion  juice,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter.  If  the  mixture 
is  not  sufficiently  moistened  by  the  tomato  juice  add 
enough  stock  to  make  it  quite  wet. 

No.  2.  Use  equal  parts  of  minced  meat  (chicken  or  veal 
preferred)  and  crumb  of  bread,  add  the  yolks  of  two 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Season  with  chopped  parsley,  a  lit- 
tle onion  juice,  pepper,  and  salt.  Moisten  with  the 
pulp  taken  from  the  tomatoes,  or  with  stock,  or  with 
both  of  them. 


NO.   58.      BAKED  STUFFED  TOMATOES  AND  FONTAGE  CUPS. 


XO.  59.     JARDINIERE. 


No.   till.      VEGETARIAN    DISH.      KING   OF  KICK   FILLED    WITH   CORN.      FONTAGE 

CUPS  HOLDING  LIMA  BEANS. 


ENTRIES  81 

No.  3.  Use  boiled  rice  mixed  with  chopped  green  peppers, 
a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  pepper,  and  salt.  Moisten 
with  the  pulp  taken  from  the  tomato,  or  with  stock. 

No.  4.  Boil  macaroni,  broken  into  half-inch  lengths,  until 
tender.  Moisten  it  with  well-seasoned  white  sauce, 
and  add  some  grated  cheese,  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
and  a  dash  of  paprika. 

STUFFED   GREEN  PEPPEfiS 

Select  green  peppers  of  equal  size.  Cut  a  piece  off  the 
stem  end,  or  cut  them  lengthwise.  Remove  the  seeds  and 
ribs.  Parboil  them,  stuff  them  with  any  of  the  mixtures 
given  for  stuffed  tomatoes,  using  stock  instead  of  tomato- 
pulp  for  moistening.  Bake  with  a  little  water  in  a  pan  for 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  or  until  they  are  tender,  but  not 
so  long  as  to  allow  them  to  lose  their  shape.  Sprinkle  a  little 
parsley  chopped  fine  over  the  tops  just  before  serving  them. 

BAKED  TOMATOES  AND  FONTAGE  CUPS 

Place  in  the  center  of  the  dish  stuffed  tomatoes  (see  page 
80)  and  place  around  them  fontage  cups  filled  with  eggs 
a  1'aurore,  as  in  illustration,  or  with  any  well-seasoned 
vegetable,  or  minced  meat.  Put  a  handle  made  of  celery 
in  each  cup,  to  resemble  a  basket. 

Eggs  a  1'aurore  are  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  moistened 
with  white  sauce. 

JARDINIERE 

The  illustration  shows  a  variety  of  vegetables  served  to- 
gether, or  a  la  jardiniere. 

This  dish  can  be  used  as  a  course  or  vegetable  entree,  and 
is  particularly  appreciated  where  one  has  an  abundance  of 
fresh  vegetables  from  the  garden.  The  vegetables  should 


82  LUNCHEONS 

be  well  seasoned  and  arranged  with  regard  to  color  so  as 
to  give  a  pleasing  effect. 

The  combination  used  in  the  illustration  is  a  cauliflower, 
green  peas,  string  beans,  lima  beans,  corn,  macedoine,  and 
baked  tomatoes. 

VEGETARIAN  DISH 

After  boiling  enough  rice  to  fill  a  ring  mold,  steam  it  until 
it  is  quite  dry,  and  until  the  grains  are  separated.  Mix  the 
rice  with  enough  thick  white  sauce  to  moisten  it.  Butter  a 
ring-mold  well  and  sprinkle  it  thickly  with  white  bread 
crumbs  (crumbs  grated  from  the  loaf).  Put  in  the  prepared 
rice  and  place  the  ring  in  a  pan,  the  bottom  of  which  is  cov- 
ered with  a  very  little  water.  Cover  the  top  with  greased 
paper,  and  bake  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  crumbs  are 
brown.  Turn  the  browned  ring  on  a  platter.  Fill  the  center 
with  any  vegetable,  and  place  around  the  outside  fontage 
cups  holding  a  second  vegetable.  In  the  illustration  the 
ring  is  filled  with  corn,  and  the  cups  hold  small  lima  beans. 

A  good  combination  is  baked  tomatoes  alternating  with 
fontage  cups  holding  macedoine  of  vegetables,  the  ring  hold- 
ing green  peas. 

The  same  style  of  dish  may  b'e  made  with  meat.  The  ring 
may  be  made  with  mashed  potato  and  hold  minced  creamed 
meat. 


CHAPTER  VII 
SIXTH  COURSE 

MEATS 


MEATS 


Casserole  of  Beef 

Fillet  of  Beef 

Filets  Mignons 

Filets  Mignons  with  Tomatoes 
and  Mushrooms 

Mutton  Chops  a  la  Soubise 

Mutton  Chops  with  Horseradish 
Sauce 

Mutton  Chops  Boned,  with  Arti- 
chokes 

Mutton  Chops  Boned,  with  Mush- 
rooms 


Leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Jardiniere 
Leg  of  Mutton  Slices 
Cottage  Pie 
Meat  and  Potato  Pie 
Minced  Meat  with  Potato  Eings 
Minced  Ham  and  Eggs 
Veal  Chops 
Veal  a  1'Italienne 
Veal  Cutlets,  Small 
Grenadines  of  Veal 
Pork  Tenderloins  with  Fried 
Apples 


VEGETABLES  AND  CEREALS  USED  AS  VEGETABLES 


Potatoes,  Stuffed  Baked 
Potatoes,  Puree  of 
Eice  a  la  Milanese 
Baked  Hominy 
Quenelles  of  Cornmeal 


Boiled  Lettuce 

Tomato  Farci 

Broiled  Tomatoes 

Spinach 

Bean   Croquettes 


CHICKEN 

Casserole  of  Chicken,  No.  1  Chicken  Fried  in  Cream 

Casserole  of  Chicken,  No.  2  Chicken  Joints 

Chicken,  Panned         )  Can  be  used  in    Chicken  en  Surprise 

,,          ,    >  pi  are  of  game  in     _^ 
Chicken,  Smothered   j  ninth  course.       *  orcemeat 


SAUCES 


White  Sauce 
Brown  Sauce 
Supreme  Sauce 
Tomato  Puree 
Hollandaise  Sauce 


Maitre  d 'Hotel  Butter 

Glaze 

To  Make  Glaze 

Hard  Sauce 

Liquid  Sauces 


CASSEROLE  OF  BEEF 

Saute  three  or  four  sliced  onions  in  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter. Put  them  when  soft  into  the  casserole.  Cut  a  steak, 
taken  from  the  upper  side  of  the  round,  into  pieces  suitable 
for  one  portion.  Put  them  in  the  saute-pan  and  sear  them  on 
all  sides,  then  put  them  in  the  casserole.  Add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  to  the  saute-pan,  let  it  brown,  then  add 
slowly  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  water  and  stir  until  it  is  a  little 
thickened,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Add,  if  convenient,  a  little  Worcestershire  sauce  and  a  little 
mushroom  catsup.  The  sauce  should  be  highly  seasoned,  and 
such  condiments  as  are  at  hand  may  be  used.  The  sauce 
will  be  richer  if  stock  is  used  instead  of  water.  Turn  the 
sauce  over  the  meat,  cover  the  casserole,  set  it  in  the  oven 
and  cook  slowly  until  the  meat  is  tender,  then  cover  the  top 
with  parboiled  sliced  potato  and  return  it  to  the  oven  for 
a  few  minutes  to  finish  cooking  the  potatoes.  The  sauce 
should  be  of  the  consistency  of  cream,  and  there  should  not 
be  a  great  quantity  of  it.  Serve  in  the  casserole. 

FILLET  OF  BEEF 

The  fillet  or  tenderloin  of  beef  is  taken  from  the  under 
side  of  the  loin.  It  is  the  most  tender  and  the  most  expensive 
cut  of  the  beef,  costing  from  eighty  cents  to  a  dollar  a  pound. 
The  whole  fillet  is  used  as  a  roast.  When  sliced  it  is  given 
different  names.  Cuts  from  the  middle,  which  is  the  thick- 
est part,  are  Chateaubriands.  The  Chateaubriand  is  cut  one 
and  a  half  to  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  trimmed,  tied 
into  a  neatly  rounded  shape,  and  struck  lightly  with  the  flat 

85 


86  LUNCHEONS 

side  of  the  cleaver  to  smooth  the  top  and  reduce  the  thick- 
ness to  one  and  a  quarter  or  one  and  a  half  inches.  It  is 
cooked  and  served  as  a  steak. 

The  next  pieces  are  the  mignon  fillets.  These  are  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way  as  the  Chateaubriand  and  should  be 
about  one  inch  thick  and  from  two  and  a  half  to  three 
inches  across  when  finished.  They  may  be  broiled  or  cooked 
on  a  hot  pan. 

Cuts  from  the  small  ends  are  noisettes  and  turnedos;  the 
former  are  cut  one  half  of  an  inch  thick  and  cooked  in  a 
saute-pan;  the  latter  are  cut  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  are  cooked  in  a  saute-pan  for  five  minutes  only.  The 
noisettes  and  turnedos  should  be  brushed  with  glaze  before 
serving  (see  Glaze,  page  104). 

Grenadines  are  cut  lengthwise  from  the  thin  end  of  the 
fillet  and  trimmed  into  chop-shaped  pieces.  They  are  larded, 
sauted  in  a  little  butter,  and  cooked  five  to  eight  minutes. 

FILETS   MIGNONS 

Prepare  and  cook  the  fillets  as  directed  above.  Arrange 
them  in  a  circle  overlapping  one  another  and  fill  the  center 
of  the  circle  with  fried  potatoes.  Lay  on  each  fillet  a  half 
slice  of  lemon  sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley. 

The  center  of  the  circle  may  be  filled  with  potato,  mashed, 
balls,  puffed,  straws,  etc.,  or  with  a  vegetable  such  as  peas, 
beans,  macedoine,  etc. 

The  fillets  may  also  be  served  with  a  bearnaise  or  a  mush- 
room sauce. 

FILETS   MIGNON  WITH  TOMATOES  AND   MUSHROOMS 

Prepare  the  fillets  as  directed  on  this  page.  Have 
them  of  uniform  size.  Broil  them  over  coals  or  on  a  hot  pan. 
Turn  them  very  often  so  they  will  cook  slowly  and  when  done 


NO    61.      FILLETS  MIGNONS  ARRANGED  IN  CIRCLE.      HALF  A  SLICE  OF  LEMON 
ON  EACH  FILLET.     FRIED  POTATOES  IN  CENTER. 


NO    62       FILLETS    MIGNONS.       EACH    FILLET    COVERED   WITH   A  SLICE    OF  BROILED 
TOMATO  AND  A  STUFFED  MUSHROOM.     FANCY  SKEWER  ON  RIGHT  OF  DISH. 


MEATS  87 

have  an  even  red  color  all  through.  The  broiling  will  take 
eight  to  ten  minutes.  Cover  the  tops  with  maitre  d 'hotel 
butter  (page  103),  or  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  chopped 
parsley.  Arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  one  end  of  a  platter. 
Place  on  each  one  a  slice  of  broiled  tomato  (see  page  97),  and 
on  the  tomato  a  stuffed  mushroom  (page  79). 

On  one  side  of  the  platter  place  an  ornamental  skewer 
stuck  into  a  shaped  piece  of  uncooked  vegetable  of  sufficient 
size.  The  skewer  in  illustration  has  a  mushroom  on  top,  then 
a  slice  of  lemon,  then  a  row  of  small  carrots  strung  on  a 
thread,  a  slice  of  lemon  to  hold  the  carrots  in  place,  and 
then  the  foliage  of  the  carrots.  It  is  stuck  into  a  raw  pars- 
nip cut  so  it  stands  firm.  The  skewer  is  for  ornamenting  the 
dish  only. 

CHOPS  A  LA  SOUBISE 

Put  soubise  sauce  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  arrange 
broiled  French  chops  standing  in  a  ring  around  it.  Place  a 
ring  of  fried  onion  over  each  chop  bone. 

French  chops  are  cut  from  the  rack  and  trimmed  so  as 
to  leave  the  upper  half  of  the  bone  bare. 

SOUBISE   SAUCE 

Boil  six  white  onions  for  ten  minutes.  Cut  them  in  pieces, 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  and  cook  them  very  slowly  indeed  for  a  long  time  or 
until  they  are  soft.  The  onions  must  cook  so  slowly  that 
they  do  not  color.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  After 
the  flour  is  cooked  remove  the  onions  from  the  fire,  add 
one  cupful  of  cream,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve. 
Add  a  very  little  pepper  and  salt. 

This  sauce  should  be  white  and  have  the  consistency  of 
thick  cream. 


88  LUNCHEONS 

CHOPS  WITH  HORSERADISH   SAUCE 

Arrange  French  chops  down  the  middle  of  the  platter, 
with  the  chops  overlapping  and  the  bones  crossing.  Place 
a  piece  of  bread  under  the  first  two  to  support  and  lift  the 
bones  off  the  dish;  the  rest  are  then  easily  arranged  in  a 
symmetrical  manner. 

Garnish  the  dish  with  spoonfuls  of  horseradish  sauce,  or 
serve  the  sauce  in  a  separate  dish. 

HORSERADISH   SAUCE 

Grate  fresh  horseradish  root  and  mix  with  it  enough 
whipped  cream  to  make  it  light  and  to  reduce  sufficiently 
the  sharpness  of  the  horseradish.  The  horseradish  absorbs 
the  cream,  and  a  few  more  spoonfuls  of  the  cream  are  needed 
than  of  the  grated  horseradish.  The  sauce  should  not  be 
mixed  until  just  before  serving. 

CHOPS   GARNISHED  WITH  ARTICHOKES 

These  chops  are  cut  from  the  rack.  They  are  cut  an  inch 
thick,  the  bones  removed,  and  the  meat  turned  and  tied  into 
round  pieces.  They  are  then  struck  with  the  flat  side  of  the 
cleaver  to  smooth  and  flatten  them  a  little. 

Broil  the  chops,  spread  them  with  butter,  and  sprinkle 
them  with  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt.  Arrange  them 
symmetrically  on  a  platter  and  place  on  each  one  an  arti- 
choke bottom  holding  a  little  good  sauce,  such  as  bearnaise 
or  Hollandaise,  or  even  melted  butter,  and  a  few  green  peas. 

Artichoke  bottoms  come  in  cans  and  can  be  purchased  from 
a  grocer.  The  French  ones  are  the  best.  They  do  not  need 
any  more  cooking,  but  should  be  heated  by  placing  them 
in  hot  water. 


NO.  63.      CHOPS  A  LA  8OUBISE. 


NO.  64.      MUTTON"  CHOI'S   WITH  HORSERADISH  SAUCE. 


NO.  65.      BONED   MUTTON   CHOI'S  WITH   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS 
HOLDING  GREEN  PEAS. 


NO.   66.      BONED  LOIN  CHOPS  WITH  MUSHROOMS  AND  PEAS. 


NO.  67.      CAKVED   LEG  OF  MUTTON  A   LA   JARDINIERE. 


NO.    08.      SLK'ES  Ut    -Ml  TTON    A    l.A   JAliDIMEKE. 


MEATS  89 

BONED  CHOPS  WITH  MUSHROOMS 

These  chops  should  be  cut  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick  from 
the  loin,  the  bone  then  carefully  removed,  some  of  the  fat 
taken  out,  and  the  thin  end  piece  drawn  around  and  fastened 
with  a  wooden  skewer,  giving  a  perfectly  round  chop.  Have 
them  uniform  in  size.  Cook  them  on  a  hot  pan.  Turn  them 
frequently  after  the  surfaces  are  seared  so  they  will  cook 
evenly  and  slowly.  If  preferred,  they  can  be  broiled  over 
hot  coals,  but  are  then  more  likely  to  lose  their  shape  and 
the  skewers  will  be  burned. 

Arrange  the  chops  flat  on  the  dish  in  a  circle  with  the 
skewers  pointing  out.  Cover  the  top  of  each  chop  with  a 
sauce  made  of  the  chopped  mushroom  stems,  and  place  in  the 
center  of  each  chop  a  large  mushroom  cap.  Place  a  paper 
frill  on  each  skewer.  Fill  the  center  of  the  ring  of  chops 
with  green  peas  or  any  small  vegetable,  or  with  mashed  or 
fried  potatoes. 

TO  PREPARE  THE  MUSHROOMS 

Select  large  mushrooms,  those  not  fully  opened  preferred, 
as  they  stand  higher.  Cut  the  stems  off  even  with  the  caps. 
Peel  the  caps.  Chop  the  stems.  Put  all  in  a  pan  with  butter 
and  saute  them  until  tender.  Remove  the  caps  as  soon  as 
they  are  tender,  and  before  they  have  flattened  out.  Add 
a  little  stock,  or  water,  to  the  pan,  and  a  little  flour.  Stir 
until  the  sauce  is  thickened  to  the  consistency  of  cream,  sea- 
son with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Use  this  sauce  for  the 
tops  of  the  chops. 

LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  JARDINIERE 

Cut  a  roasted  leg  of  mutton  in  thick  slices  and  run  the 
knife  under  the  slices  to  free  them,  but  leave  them  in  place. 
Conceal  the  bone  with  a  paper  frill.  Arrange  around  the 


90  LUNCHEONS 

dish  a  variety  of  vegetables.  In  illustration  No.  67  the 
vegetables  are  boiled  potato  balls,  macedoine,  and  string 
beans  cut  in  two  ways,  lengthwise  and  across  diagonally  into 
one  half  inch  pieces. 

Arrange  slices  cut  from  a  roasted  leg  of  mutton  on  one 
end  of  a  large  platter.  Cover  the  rest  of  the  dish  with  a 
variety  of  seasoned  vegetables.  The  vegetables  used  in  illus- 
tration No.  68  are  cauliflower,  string  beans,  lima  beans,  and 
green  peas. 

COTTAGE   PIE 

Peel  a  good-sized  onion,  stick  into  it  half  a  dozen  whole 
cloves,  and  place  it  in  the  center  of  an  earthenware  baking- 
dish,  or  a  granite-ware  basin,  or,  best  of  all,  the  baking- 
pan  of  a  double  pudding-dish.  Cut  any  cold  meat  into  small 
and  rather  thin  slices.  Roll  each  piece  in  flour  mixed  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  meat  around  the 
onion,  filling  the  dish  three  quarters  full. 

Put  the  bone  of  the  meat  and  all  of  the  scraps  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  them  with  cold  water,  add  a  bay-leaf  and 
soup  vegetables,  and  simmer  the  whole  for  an  hour  or  longer. 
Strain  off  the  stock. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a  tea- 
spooiiful  of  onion  juice,  let  it  brown,  then  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  the  flour  used  for  rolling  the  meat,  let  the  flour  brown, 
then  add  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  the  stock  and  stir  until 
it  becomes  a  little  thickened.  Add  more  pepper  and  salt 
if  necessary,  and  a  dash  of  mustard  and  of  nutmeg,  also  a 
few  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  if  convenient.  Let  this 
sauce  become  a  little  cooled,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat,  and 
cover  the  whole  with  mashed  potato.  The  potato  should  be 
seasoned  by  adding  to  it  a  little  hot  milk,  with  melted  but- 
ter in  it.  and  a  little  salt,  and  then  be  whipped  with  a  fork 
until  it  is  smooth,  light,  and  white.  The  potato  insfy  be 


MEATS  91 

put  through  a  ricer  over  the  meat,  or  be  piled  on  it  roughly 
and  scratched  with  a  fork  into  cone  shape,  or  be  put 
through  a  pastry-bag  with  star  tube  as  in  illustration.  In 
the  latter  case  it  must  have  the  white  of  an  egg  mixed  with 
it  in  order  to  hold  its  form  when  baked.  Touch  the  potato 
lightly  over  the  top  with  yolk  of  egg  diluted  with  milk  to 
make  it  brown  well.  Put  the  dish  in  the  oven  for  ten  to  fif- 
teen minutes,  or  long  enough  to  brown  the  potato  a  little  and 
heat  the  meat.  When  the  sauce  begins  to  bubble  through 
the  potato  at  the  edges  it  is  done. 

The  meat,  having  been  cooked  already,  will  be  toughened  if 
cooked  a  second  time  and  needs  only  to  be  heated. 

Wrap  a  folded  napkin  around  the  dish  before  sending  it  to 
the  table  in  case  a  kitchen  basin  has  been  used.  This  is  a 
presentable  dish  and  will  be  well  liked. 

MEAT  AND   POTATO  PIE 

Butter  a  pie-plate,  spread  over  it  like  an  under-crust  well- 
seasoned  mashed  potato.  Spread  it  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick  on  the  bottom.  Make  a  border  two  inches  wide, 
and  thick  enough  to  rise  a  little  above  the  dish.  Score  the 
top  of  the  potato  border  with  a  fork  and  touch  it  lightly  with 
egg.  Fill  the  center  with  rare  cold  beef  or  mutton  cut  into 
dice.  Pour  over  the  meat  well-seasoned  browned  sauce  and 
sprinkle  the  top  with  a  few  buttered  bread  crumbs.  Do  not 
let  any  of  the  sauce  get  on  the  potato  border.  Place  it  in 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  brown. 

MINCED  MEAT  WITH  POTATO  RINGS 

Mince  any  kind  of  meat.  Make  it  creamy  with  brown 
sauce  for  dark  meat,  or  with  white  sauce  for  veal  or  chicken ; 
or  moisten  the  minced  meat  with  stock,  add  pepper  and  salt, 
a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  and,  if  convenient,  a  little 


92  .t  LUNCHEONS 

tomato.  Chopped  mushrooms  added  to  the  mince  improve 
it  very  much.  Spread  the  creamed  mince  flat  on  the  dish, 
or  form  a  mound  as  in  illustration.  Sprinkle  the  top  with 
crumbs  browned  in  butter. 

Mash  some  boiled  potatoes,  season  them  with  butter,  salt, 
and  enough  milk  to  moisten  them  well,  and  one  or  two 
beaten  eggs ;  one  egg  is  enough  for  a  pint  of  potato.  Beat  the 
potato  until  it  is  light  and  white.  Press  it  through  a  pastry- 
bag  with  star  tube  into  rings.  Paint  the  rings  with  yolk  of 
egg  diluted  with  a  little  milk  and  put  them  in  the  oven  to 
brown.  The  potato  will  not  hold  its  form  unless  the  egg  is 
added.  Arrange  the  rings  around  the  minced  meat  and  fill 
the  centers  with  corn  and  spinach  alternately,  as  in  illustra- 
tion, or  with  any  other  vegetables. 


MINCED   HAM  AND   EGGS 

Mince  boiled  ham  very  fine.  Moisten  it  with  white  sauce. 
Form  it  into  a  mound  and  cover  it  with  crumbed  yolks  of 
hard-boiled  eggs.  Cut  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  strips 
and  arrange  them  around  the  ham.  S^,  P-L~-/j  V  ' 


U 


VEAL   CHOPS 


Cut  thin  chops  from  the  rack  and  trim  them  like  French 
mutton  chops.  Leave  the  bone  two  and  a  half  inches  long. 
Strike  the  meat  with  a  cleaver  to  flatten  it  out  to  two  and  a 
half  inches  in  diameter.  Chop  the  trimmings  very  fine, 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a  few  drops  of  onion 
juice.  Spread  the  mince  over  the  chops  in  an  even  layer. 
Egg  and  bread-crumb  them  and  saute  them  until  thoroughly 
cooked.  Serve  on  a  dish  with  a  little  sauce  made  from  the 
drippings  in  the  saute-pan,  or  with  a  tomato  sauce. 

Serve  spinach  with  this  dish. 


NO.  70.      MINCED  .MEAT  GAKXISHED  WITH   POTATO   RINGS   HOLDING  VEGETABLES. 


NO.   71.      MINCED  MEAT  OK  flSU   UAKMSHED    WITH  MASHED  POTATOES. 


NO.  72.     MINCED  HAM  AND  EGGS. 


NO.   73.      VEAL  X  L'lTALIENXE. 


M).   74.      SMALL  VEAL  CUTLETS. 


MEATS  93 

VEAL  A  L'lTALIENNE 

Divide  a  veal  cutlet  into  uniform  small  pieces  and  tie 
them  to  make  the  pieces  round  and  keep  them  in  shape 
until  cooked,  when  the  strings  are  cut  and  removed. 

One  cutlet  from  the  top  of  the  leg  of  veal  will  cut  into 
eight  pieces. 

Dredge  the  small  cutlets  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  them 
into  egg,  and  then  cover  them  with  bread  crumbs.  Saute 
them  in  the  fat  tried  out  of  thin  slices  of  salt  pork.  It  will 
take  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  to  cook  them.  Veal  should 
be  thoroughly  cooked,  but  not  dried.  The  meat  will  be 
white  when  cooked.  Put  a  little  lemon  juice  on  each  cutlet. 

Boil  the  required  amount  of  spaghetti  in  salted  water 
until  it  is  tender,  then  steam  it  until  dry  so  the  sauce  will 
adhere  to  it.  Mix  it  with  tomato  puree  and  a  few  thin  strips 
of  boiled  ham  cut  into  straws  one  and  a  half  inches  long. 
Pile  the  spaghetti  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  arrange  the 
cutlets  around  it.  Place  the  crisp  slices  of  salt  pork  on  the 
dish. 


SMALL   VEAL   CUTLETS 

Cut  and  tie  the  cutlets  into  rounds  as  directed  in  above 
receipt.  Dredge  them  in  salt  and  pepper  and  roll  them  in 
flour. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  when  it  is 
hot  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  onion,  let  it  cook  for 
a  minute,  then  add  the  cutlets  and  cook  them  until  done 
and  well  browned,  turning  them  several  times. 

Remove  the  cutlets.  Sprinkle  in  the  pan  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  let  it  cook  a  minute,  then  add  slowly  half  a  cupful  of 
stock,  stirring  all  the  time  to'  keep  it  smooth.  Remove  it 
from  the  fire  and  stir  in  a  small  bit  of  butter  and  the  yolks 


94  LUNCHEONS 

of  one  or  two  eggs  mixed  with  a  tablespoonf ul  of  hot  water ; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  If  the  sauce  is  too  thick,  dilute 
it  with  a  little  hot  water  or  stock.  It  should  have  the  consis- 
tency of  cream.  Strain  it  on  to  the  serving  dish.  Place  the 
cutlets  upon  the  sauce,  arranging  them  in  a  line  in  the  center 
of  the  dish,  one  on  top  of  another,  and  place  around  them 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  two  lengthwise. 


GRENADINES  OF  VEAL 

Cut  a  thin  veal  cutlet  into  small  pieces  and  tie  the  pieces 
into  rounds  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  Lard  them.  Put 
then  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  few  trimmings  of  the  larding 
pork,  a  sliced  onion,  and  enough  stock  to  half  cover  them. 
Place  them  in  the  oven  and  cook  until  the  stock  has  fallen  to 
a  glaze.  Baste  them  frequently  so  they  will  be  well  glazed. 
Arrange  them  on  a  dish  and  pour  around  them  a  sauce  made 
from  the  drippings  in  the  pan,  as  follows :  Add  a  little  stock 
or  water  to  the  pan  and  a  little  browned  flour,  if  necessary, 
to  thicken  it.  Then  strain  it.  A  little  ham  cut  into  thin 
strips  an  inch  long  improves  the  sauce. 


PORK  TENDERLOINS 

Saute  tenderloins  of  pork  until  cooked  and  browned.  Ar- 
range the  tenderloins  evenly  on  a  dish  and  place  around 
them  sauted  slices  of  apples. 

Cut  apples  across  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
stamp  out  the  cores  with  a  small  biscuit-cutter,  but  do  not 
remove  the  skin.  Saute  the  rings  of  apple  in  the  drippings 
of  the  pork  until  they  are  tender,  but  not  until  they  have 
lost  shape. 


NO.  75.     GRENADINES  OF  VEAL. 


NO.   76.      PORK  TENDERLOINS  GARNISHED  WITH  SLICES  OF  APPLE  SAUTED. 


NO.   77.      STUFFED  BAKED  POTATOES. 


NO.   78.      POTATO   PUREE. 


NO.   7'J.      INDIVIDl'AL   MOLDS   OF  SPINACH   GARNISHED 
WTTII   CHOPPED   WHITE   OF  EGG. 


NO.   80.     SPINACH,   NO.  '2. 


MEATS  95 

VEGETABLES  AND   CEREALS  USED  AS 
VEGETABLES 

STUFFED   BAKED  POTATOES 

Select  potatoes  of  the  same  size  and  shape.  After  carefully 
washing  them,  bake  them  until  tender,  then  cut  them  in  two 
lengthwise  and  remove  the  pulp  of  the  potato,  leaving  the 
skins  uninjured.  Season  the  potato  with  butter,  salt,  and 
a  little  milk.  Beat  it  well  and  replace  it  in  the  potato 
skins.  Smooth  the  top  with  a  knife,  brush  them  with  yolk 
of  egg,  and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

POTATO   PUREE 

Mash  and  season  the  potatoes  and  add  enough  milk  or  hot 
water  to  make  them  quite  soft.  Take  up  a  spoonful  of  potato 
at  a  time  and  place  it  on  a  flat  dish  in  a  regular  order.  Place 
a  small  sprig  of  parsley  on  each  spoonful. 

RICE  A  LA  MILANESE 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
teaspoonf ul  of  onion  chopped  fine.  Cook  for  a  minute,  but  do 
not  brown.  Add  half  a  cupful  of  clean,  unwashed  rice,  and 
stir  until  it  is  a  light  yellow,  then  add  two  cupfuls  of  stock 
and  cook  without  stirring  for  twenty  minutes.  The  rice 
should  be  tender  and  the  stock  should  be  absorbed.  Add 
a  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese  and  a  little  salt.  Turn 
it  lightly  together,  using  a  fork,  so  as  not  to  break  the  rice. 
Cover  the  top  with  grated  cheese. 

Serve  as  a  vegetable-dish  or  as  a  course  for  luncheon.  In 
the  latter  case  brush  the  inside  of  a  ring-mold  with  glaze,  add 
to  the  rice  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  in  small  bits,  and  a  dash 


96  LUNCHEONS 

of  paprika.    Press  it  lightly  into  the  mold  and  set  it  in  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes. 

A  brown  or  a  tomato  sauce  may  be  served  with  it  if  desired. 

BAKED  HOMINY 

To  two  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  hominy  add  a  beaten  egg, 
three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Beat  it  until  perfectly  smooth.  Put  it  into  a  baking- 
dish,  smooth  the  top,  pour  over  it  a  teaspoonful  of  melted 
butter,  and  bake  it  until  it  forms  a  golden  surface. 

Serve  it  in  the  baking-dish  in  place  of  a  vegetable. 

QUENELLES  OF  CORNMEAL 

Put  a  cupful  of  milk  and  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  water  in  a 
saucepan  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  When  it  boils  stir 
in  slowly  half  a  cupful  of  yellow  meal  and  cook  for  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  and  until  the  mixture  is  well  thickened. 
Then  take  it  off  the  fire.  When  it  is  cold  and  stiffened  take 
it  up  in  spoonfuls  and  lay  the  egg-shaped  pieces  formed 
by  the  spoon  in  a  baking-dish.  Place  the  pieces  in  the  dish 
symmetrically.  Pour  over  them  a  little  melted  butter  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  to  brown  slightly.  Serve  as  a  vegetable. 

BOILED   LETTUCE 

Wash  thoroughly  whole  heads  of  lettuce.  Tie  the  tops  so 
the  leaves  will  lie  together.  Place  the  heads  in  a  large  pan 
so  they  do  not  touch  and  boil  them  in  salted  water  until 
tender.  Remove  them  carefully  and  let  them  drain  on  a 
sieve,  pressing  each  one  to  free  it  of  water.  Lay  them  in 
a  row  on  a  flat  dish  and  pour  over  them  a  sauce  made  of 
melted  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  vinegar;  or  use 
a  plain  white  sauce. 


MEATS  97 

TOMATO   FARCI 

Select  tomatoes  of  equal  size,  and  if  they  are  small  use 
them  whole,  if  large  cut  them  in  two.  Peel  them.  Arrange 
them  close  together  in  a  flat  earthen  baking-dish  which  can 
be  sent  to  the  table.  Sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Spread  over  the  top  a  mixture  of  chopped  mushrooms,  bread 
crumbs,  chopped  parsley,  and  sufficient  butter  to  moisten  the 
bread.  Bake  about  thirty  minutes,  or  until  the  tomatoes 
are  softened.  Set  the  hot  baking-dish  on  a  second  dish  when 
serving. 

BROILED  TOMATOES  . 

Without  removing  the  skin,  cut  fresh  tomatoes  into  slices 
three  eighths  of  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  the  slices  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  dip  them  first  in  melted  butter  or  in 
oil  and  then  in  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  then  broil  them  over 
hot  coals  until  they  are  softened.  Do  not  let  them  cook  so 
much  that  they  fall  apart. 

SPINACH 

Boil  carefully  washed  and  carefully  picked  over  spinach 
until  it  is  tender,  drain  it,  chop  it  very  fine,  and  press  it 
through  a  puree  sieve.  Season  it  with  white  sauce  made  of 
half  milk  and  half  stock  (page  102) .  Use  enough  of  the  sauce 
to  make  it  quite  creamy.  If  it  is  to  be  molded  it  cannot  be 
quite  as  soft  as  when  it  is  to  be  served  in  a  vegetable-dish. 

No.  1.  Fill  thoroughly  buttered  individual  timbale  molds 
with  spinach  and  press  it  down  quite  hard.  After  a 
few  minutes,  turn  the  spinach  out  of  the  molds  on  to 
rounds  of  browned  bread.  Cover  the  tops  with 
chopped  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  place  in  the 
center  a  spot  of  the  crumbed  yolks. 

7 


98  LUNCHEONS 

Serve  alone  or  use  as  a  garnish  on  a  meat-dish. 

This  is  a  good  way  to  utilize  a  small  amount  of  left- 
over spinach.  Spinach  is  improved  rather  than  in- 
jured by  recooking. 


No.  2.  Make  a  mound  of  spinach  by  pressing  it  into  a 
buttered  bowl.  Ornament  the  top  with  a  hard-boiled 
egg,  the  whole  yolk  standing  on  slices  of  the  white  cut 
lengthwise. 


No.  3.  Ornament  a  thoroughly  buttered  tin  basin  or  any 
mold  with  half  rings  of  hard-boiled  eggs  as  shown  in 
illustration  No.  5.  The  egg  will  stick  to  the  butter 
and  be  held  in  place.  Fill  the  mold  with  spinach, 
putting  it  in  carefully  with  a  spoon  so  as  not  to 
displace  the  ornamentation,  and  press  it  down  firmly. 
After  a  few  minutes  turn  it  out  of  the  mold  and  gar- 
nish it  with  croutons. 

Croutons  are  slices  of  bread  browned  (sauted)  in 
butter. 


BEAN   CROQUETTES 

Boil  until  tender  a  pint  of  dried  beans  which  have  been 
soaked  overnight.  Boil  an  onion  in  the  water  with  the 
beans.  Press  the  beans  through  a  puree  sieve.  Season  the 
puree  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two  beaten 
eggs,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley 
chopped  very  fine.  If  the  mixture  is  still  too  dry  add  a 
little  stock.  Mold  the  puree  into  small  croquettes.  Cover 
the  croquettes  with  egg  and  bread  crumbs  and  fry  them  in 
smokin<?-hot  fat.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 


MEATS  99 

CHICKEN 

CASSEROLE  OF  CHICKEN,  No.  1 

Cut  tender  chicken  into  joints.  Remove  the  skin,  put  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  casserole.  Lay  in  the  pieces 
of  chicken  loosely  with  bits  of  butter  between  them,  add  the 
sauted  slices  of  one  onion  and  a  bouquet  of  herbs  consisting 
of  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  and  a  little  thyme, 
wrap  the  parsley  around  the  others  and  tie  them  together. 
Add  also  a  few  raw  potato  balls  and,  if  convenient,  a  few 
fresh  mushrooms.  Sprinkle  with  salt.  Lay  two  or  three 
very  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  over  the  top.  Cover  the  casserole 
and  put  it  in  the  oven.  At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  turn  the 
chicken  carefully  and  return  it  to  the  oven  to  finish  the 
cooking. 

CASSEROLE  OF  CHICKEN,  No.  2 

Cut  a  chicken  into  joints,  remove  the  skin,  sprinkle  the 
pieces  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  roll  them  in  flour.  Saute 
the  slices  of  one  onion  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter;  when 
they  are  tender  remove  and  put  them  in  the  casserole,  then 
put  in  the  saute-pan  the  pieces  of  chicken  with  a  little  more 
butter  and  saute  them  to  a  golden  brown  on  all  sides.  Place 
the  chicken  in  the  casserole.  Add  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  to  the  saute-pan;  after  it  has  cooked  a  minute  stir  in 
slowly  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  water,  or,  preferably,  stock, 
and  stir  until  it  is  slightly  thickened.  Season  with  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Turn  the 
sauce  over  the  chicken,  add  a  bay-leaf,  a  few  potato  balls, 
and,  if  convenient,  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry  and  a  few  mush- 
rooms. Cover  the  casserole,  put  it  in  the  oven,  and  cook 
slowly  until  the  chicken  is  tender.  If  the  sauce  becomes  too 


100  LUNCHEONS 

dry  add  enough  water  or  stock  to  make  it  the  consistency 
of  cream.  If  it  is  too  thin  leave  off  the  lid  and  continue 
cooking  until  it  is  reduced.  There  should  not  be  a  great 
quantity  of  sauce. 

PANNED  CHICKEN 

Split  a  spring  chicken  down  the  back,  double  the  flippers 
under  the  back,  and  cross  the  legs  as  shown  in  illustration 
No.  82. 

Put  a  little  butter  all  over  the  chicken  and  dust  it  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  flour.  Place  it  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  cup- 
ful of  water  and  bake  it  for  thirty  minutes,  basting  it  fre- 
quently. 

SMOTHERED   CHICKEN 

Put  a  chicken  prepared  as  above  in  a  pan,  cover  it  with  a 
second  pan,  and  set  it  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  browned,  then  turn  it  over,  add  a  cupful  of  water, 
cover  it  again  with  the  pan,  and  cook  until  tender. 

CHICKEN   FRIED   IN   CREAM 

Fry  a  few  pieces  of  salt  pork  until  crisp.  Kemove  them 
from  the  pan  and  put  in  the  chicken,  which  has  been  cut  into 
pieces  and  the  skin  removed.  Saute  the  chicken  in  the  pork 
i'at  until  it  is  cooked  and  browned,  then  turn  over  it  a  cupful 
of  cream  in  which  has  been  mixed  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
mustard  and  the  chopped  white  and  crumbed  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg.  Stir  them  together  for  a  minute  and  serve. 

CHICKEN  JOINTS 

Take  the  drumsticks  and  second  joints  and  the  wings  of 
cooked  chicken  or  turkev.  Remove  the  skin  and  trim  them  so 


NO.  81.      BEAN  CROQUETTES. 


NO.   82.      CHICKEN   PREPARED  TO  BROIL. 


NO.   83.      CHICKEN  JOINTS  GARNISHED   WITH  POTATO. 


No.   84.      CHICKEX    KN   STRPIMSE. 


MEATS  101 

they  are  smooth  and  shapely.  Rub  them  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Dip  them  in  batter  and  fry  them  in  smoking-hot  fat 
to  a  light  golden  color.  Arrange  them  on  a  platter  with  the 
points  in,  and  ornament  the  tops  with  a  line  of  mashed 
potato  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag  and  star-tube. 

Use  a  plain  pancake  batter,  omitting  the  baking-powder; 
or  use  the  batter  given  for  fontage  cups  (page  30),  but  a 
little  thicker.  Have  it  of  a  consistency  to  coat  the  spoon 
evenly  and  let  it  be  very  smooth. 


CHICKEN  EN  SURPRISE 

Bone  a  chicken  without  removing  the  leg  or  wing  bones. 
Spread  the  boned  chicken  on  a  board,  lay  a  roll  of  force- 
meat on  it,  draw  it  together,  giving  it  the  shape  of  the 
chicken,  and  sew  the  skin  together.  Put  the  legs  and  wings 
into  the  positions  of  a  trussed  fowl,  roll  it  in  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth, and  secure  the  ends  well.  (See  Boning  and  Braising, 
pages  181-182,  ''Century  Cook  Book.") 

Put  it  in  a  pot  with  enough  water  to  cover  it,  add  soup 
vegetables,  herbs  and  spices,  and  let  it  simmer  for  four  hours. 

Let  the  chicken  cool  before  removing  the  cloth,  then  lard 
it,  rub  it  over  with  a  little  melted  butter,  and  dredge  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Place  it  in  the  oven  to  brown  and  to 
heat  it  if  it  is  to  be  used  hot.  Baste  with  a  little  butter  and 
water  so  it  will  not  get  too  brown  while  it  is  heating  through. 
Place  paper  frills  on  the  leg  bones,  and  garnish  with  fried 
potato  balls  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration. 

FORCEMEAT 

Chop  very  fine  the  meat  of  a  fowl,  or  use  veal  or  pork  or  a 
mixture  of  them  both.  Add  to  the  meat  a  cupful  of  the 


102  LUNCHEONS 

crumb  of  bread,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  salt,  thyme,  and  onion  juice,  and  a  quarter 
teaspoonful  of  pepper;  a  little  ham  or  tongue,  some  dice  of 
larding-pork  and  truffle  improve  the  forcemeat,  but  are  not 
essential  when  the  chicken  is  to  be  served  hot.  Moisten  the 
whole  with  stock  and  mix  it  well. 


SAUCES 

WHITE   SAUCE 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  when  it  bub- 
bles add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  them  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  them  brown.  Remove  from 
the  fire  and  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  very  slowly  so  as  to  keep 
it  smooth ;  stir  all  the  time.  Add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Return  it  to  the  fire  and  cook 
until  it  is  thickened  to  a  creamy  consistency.  The  sauce  is 
richer  if  half  stock  and  half  milk  are  used.  It  is  also  improved 
for  some  uses  by  adding  the  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs.  If 
yolks  are  used  they  are  stirred  in  after  the  sauce  is  taken 
from  the  fire,  as  it  is  still  hot  enough  to  cook  the  egg  suffi- 
ciently. (See  Sauces,  "Century  Cook  Book,"  pages  275- 
277.) 

BROWN   SAUCE 

This  is  made  in  the  same  way  and  with  the  same  propor- 
tions as  the  white  sauce,  but  the  butter  with  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice  in  it  is  browned  before  the  flour  is  added.  The 
flour  is  also  allowed  to  brown.  It  is  then  diluted  with  stock 
instead  of  milk. 


MEATS  103 

SUPREME   SAUCE 

FOE  CHICKEN  BREASTS,  SWEETBREADS,  CROQUETTES,  ETC. 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it  is 
hot  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  let  it  cook  a  few  min- 
utes without  coloring,  then  add  slowly  a  cupful  of  chicken  or 
veal  stock,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dash  of  paprika ; 
stir  until  it  thickens,  then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  after 
a  few  minutes  add  slowly  a  mixture  of  quarter  of  a  cupful 
of  cream  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Return  it  to  the  fire 
for  a  minute  to  cook  the  eggs.  Just  before  serving  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

TOMATO   PUREE 

Put  a  canful  of  tomatoes  in  a  saucepan  with  half  an  onion 
sliced,  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  three  cloves,  one  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  un- 
covered until  reduced  one  half,  then  strain  it  through  a 
puree  sieve.  Return  it  to  the  fire  and  add,  a  little  at  a  time, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter. 

HOLLANDAISE   SAUCE 

FOR  FISH,  VEGETABLES,  AND  MEATS 

Put  in  a  saucepan  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  half  cupful 
of  butter,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  paprika,  and 
one  half  cupful  of  cold  water  or  stock.  Mix  them  together. 
Place  the  saucepan  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  stir  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  until  it  has  thickened  to  the  consistency  of 
cream.  When  ready  to  serve  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and 
after  it  has  cooled  a  little  add  very  slowly  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon. 


104  LUNCHEONS 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  BUTTER 

Whip,  with  a  fork,  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  butter  until 
it  is  very  light,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley  chopped  very 
fine,  one  half  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  lastly 
add  slowly  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Smooth  it  over 
and  set  it  in  the  ice-box  to  harden.  Dip  a  teaspoon  in  hot 
water,  wipe  it  quickly,  and  then  draw  it  lightly  over  the 
hardened  butter,  taking  up  a  thin  layer  which  will  curl  over 
as  the  spoon  is  drawn  along.  Turn  it  off  the  spoon  in  egg- 
shaped  pieces.  Heat  the  spoon  again  and  repeat  the  opera- 
tion, laying  the  pieces  in  a  pile  as  they  are  made.  Place  them 
in  the  ice-box  to  harden. 

Serve  with  any  broiled  meats  or  fish. 


GLAZE 

Glaze  is  a  clear  soup  stock  boiled  down  to  the  consistency 
of  thick  cream.  It  is  applied  with  a  brush  to  the  surface  of 
meats  to  give  them  a  smooth  and  shining  surface.  It  is 
used  also  for  adding  richness  to  sauces.  A  very  little  glaze 
often  improves  a  sauce  and  does  not  thin  it  as  stock  would 
do.  The  prepared  extract  of  beef  which  comes  in  small  jars 
can  be  used  as  a  glaze. 


TO   MAKE   GLAZE 

Put  in  a  soup  pot  bits  of  fat  cut  from  meat  and  let  them 
try  out  enough  to  moisten  the  bottom  of  the  pot ;  or  use  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  for  this  purpose.  Add  four  pounds 
of  lean  beef  cut  into  pieces  and  let  them  brown,  turning  them 
a  few  times,  then  add  a  half  cupful  of  hot  water  and  let  the 
whole  cook  until  the  juices  are  reduced  to  a  glaze  in  the 


MEATS  105 

bottom  of  the  pot.  This  is  to  give  color  to  the  stock.  Add 
six  quarts  of  cold  water  and  the  knuckle  of  veal,  and  let  the 
mixture  simmer  for  six  hours.  If  the  water  is  allowed  to  boil 
the  lime  will  be  extracted  from  the  bone  and  the  stock  will 
be  clouded.  After  three  hours'  simmering  add  the  soup  vege- 
tables, consisting  of  two  stalks  of  celery,  one  onion,  a  few 
sprigs  of  parsley,  a  piece  of  carrot,  three  cloves,  a  bay-leaf, 
a  saltspoonful  each  of  thyme  and  marjoram,  fifteen  pepper- 
corns, and  a  tablespoonf ul  of  salt.  After  six  hours '  simmer- 
ing strain  the  stock  through  a  cloth  laid  on  a  colander,  and 
let  it  cool.  You  have  now  a  soup  stock.  The  next  day  re- 
move the  grease,  turn  the  stock  into  a  saucepan  carefully 
so  that  no  sediment  goes  in,  and  let  it  boil,  uncovered,  until 
reduced  to  a  thin  paste.  The  stock  is  now  glaze.  Be  care- 
ful toward  the  end  of  the  cooking  that  the  stock  does  not 
burn.  Turn  the  glaze  into  a  small  jar  and  put  a  little  melted 
butter  over  the  top  to  exclude  the  air.  "When  ready  to  use 
it  heat  a  little  of  the  glaze  to  soften  it  and  apply  it  with 
a  brush. 

SWEET  SAUCES  FOR  PUDDINGS 

HARD   SAUCE 

Hard  sauce  is  made  of  butter,  sugar,  and  flavoring. 

Use  twice  the  quantity  of  sugar  that  you  have  of  butter. 
Beat  them  together  for  a  long  time,  or  until  they  are  very 
light  and  white,  then  add  the  flavoring  and  put  it  in  the  ice- 
box to  harden.  The  yolk  of  an  egg  or  the  whipped  white  of 
an  egg  may  be  added  to  white  sauce. 

To  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  sugar  add  for 
flavoring  one  tablespoonful  of  wine,  or  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  or 
six  drops  of  vanilla. 


106  LUNCHEONS 

LIQUID  SAUCES 

No.  1.  Use  the  same  proportions  of  butter  and  sugar  as 
for  hard  sauce.  Add  a  little  wine,  or  milk,  or  hot 
water.  Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  until  the  sugar 
and  butter  are  melted. 

No.  2.  Use  yolks  of  eggs  with  wine  and  sugar. 
4  yolks, 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  wine, 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  a  little  thickened. 

No.  3.  1  cupful  of  sherry, 

£  cupful  of  sugar, 
1  egg. 

Beat  together  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  a  lit- 
tle thickened. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
SEVENTH  COURSE 

PUNCHES-FRUIT-CHEESE  DISHES 


PUNCHES-FRUIT-CHEESE  DISHES 

Frozen  Punches  Gnocchi  a  1  'Italienne 

Brandy  Peaches  Gnocchi  a  la  Eomaine 

Individual  Pineapple.  See  page  38      Gnocchi  a  la  Franchise 
Cheese  Croquettes  Entrees  given  in  Fifth  Course 

Cheese  Patties 


FROZEN  PUNCHES 

Any  of  the  water-ices  can  be  made  into  punches  by  adding 
to  them  when  half  frozen  the  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs 
which  have  had  a  tablespoonful  of  hot  sugar  syrup  stirred 
into  them  to  cook  the  eggs.  The  eggs  must  be  cold  when 
added  to  the  ice,  and  the  freezing  continued  until  the  ice  is 
sufficiently  stiff.  At  the  moment  of  serving  pour  over  each 
glassful  a  teasponful  or  a  tablespoonful  of  liquor. 

The  liquor  may  be  rum  or  kirsch,  or  a  liqueur. 

BRANDY  PEACHES 

Serve  brandied  peaches  in  individual  glasses  before  the 
game  course.  Keep  the  jar  of  peaches  on  ice  for  several 
hours  before  serving  them,  so  they  will  get  very  cold.  Serve 
one  peach  in  a  glass. 

CHEESE  CROQUETTES 

Grate  half  a  pound  of  American  cheese.  Mix  in  it  a  scant 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  an  egg 
beaten  enough  to  break  it,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
dash  of  paprika.  Mix  to  a  smooth  paste  and  mold  into  small 
croquettes,  using  a  tablespoonful  of  the  paste  for  each  cro- 
quette. The  above  proportions  will  make  eight  croquettes. 

Add  a  little  milk  to  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  roll  the  cro- 
quettes in  this  and  then  in  cracker  dust.  Then  fry  them  for 
a  minute  in  smoking-hot  fat.  They  should  have  a  delicate 
brown  color  and  be  soft  inside.  Serve  them  as  soon  as  they 
are  fried  or  the  cheese  will  harden. 

This  is  a  delicious  cheese  dish  and  very  easily  made. 

109 


110  LUNCHEONS 

CHEESE   FATTIES 

Cut  slices  of  bread  one  inch  thick.  Stamp  the  slices  into 
rounds  with  a  biscuit-cutter.  With  a  smaller  stamp  cut  a 
round  half  through  the  center  of  each  one  of  the  large 
rounds  and  take  out  the  bread,  leaving  a  box  of  bread. 
Spread  these  with  butter  and  put  them  in  the  oven  to  brown. 
Fill  the  centers  with  the  same  cheese  mixture  as  given  for 
cheese  croquettes  and  place  them  in  the  oven  just  long 
enough  to  soften  the  cheese.  Serve  at  once. 

GNOCCHI  A  L'lTALIENNE 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of 
water,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  When  this  boils  add  a  cupful  of 
hominy  and  stir  until  it  is  thickened  a  little,  then  set  the 
saucepan  into  a  second  one  containing  hot  water  and  con- 
tinue cooking  until  the  hominy  is  soft.  Add  a  little  more 
hot  water  if  the  mixture  gets  dry  before  the  hominy  is 
cooked.  Take  it  off  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  grated 
cheese,  and  spread  the  mixture  in  a  smooth  layer  one  half 
inch  thick  on  a  buttered  tin.  Set  it  aside  to  cool.  When  the 
layer  of  hominy  has  hardened  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  small 
biscuit-cutter.  Place  the  rounds,  overlapping,  in  a  baking- 
dish  which  can  be  sent  to  the  table.  Moisten  the  tops  with 
melted  butter,  sprinkle  them  with  grated  cheese,  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

GNOCCHI  A  LA   ROMAINE 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  when  it 
is  melted  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one  half  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a  cupful  of  milk  gradually.  When  it  is  well 
thickened  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  and  two  table- 


NO.   85.      CHEESE   CKOO,UETTES. 


NO.   86.     CHEESE  PATTIES. 


NO.   87.      GXOCCHI  A   I.'ITALIENNK. 


NO.  ws.    cxoci  HI  A  I.A 


PUNCHES  —  FRUIT  —  CHEESE  —  DISHES  111 

spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  baking- 
dish,  making  a  layer  half  or  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick. 
Let  it  get  cold.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  grated  cheese  and  put 
it  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Serve  it  hot. 


GNOCCHI  A  LA  FRANQAISE 

Add  to  a  quart  of  boiling  milk  four  tablespoonfuls  of  fa- 
rina and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  it  about  thirty 
minutes,  or  until  soft.  Turn  it  on  to  a  dish,  making  a  layer 
about  half  an  inch  thick.  When  it  is  cold  and  hardened  cut  it 
into  sharp,  triangular  pieces.  Arrange  the  pieces  on  a  flat, 
round  dish  in  a  double  circle  as  in  illustration.  Add  to  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  hot  boiled  farina,  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  and  a  dash  of 
paprika  or  red  pepper.  Pile  this  mixture  in  the  center  of 
the  dish,  filling  the  vacant  space  in  the  middle  of  the  pieces 
of  farina,  and  sprinkle  it  with  grated  cheese,  not  letting  any 
cheese  get  on  the  farina.  Place  the  dish  in  the  oven  to  brown 
and  serve  at  once. 

This  dish  is  made  to  resemble  a  sunflower. 


CHAPTEE  IX 
EIGHTH  COURSE 

GAME-SALADS-COLD   SERVICE -CHEESE 


Quail,  Broiled 
Quail,  Boasted 


GAME 

Squabs 


SALADS 


Lettuce,  Plain 

Lettuce  Hearts 

Bouquet  Salad,  Lettuce  and  Nas- 
turtium or  Watercress 

Bouquet  Salad,  Lettuce  and  Hard- 
boiled  Egg 

Bouquet  Salads,  Illustrations  Xos. 
94,  95,  96,  97 

Daisy  Salad 

Salad  of  Asparagus  Tips 

Salad  of  Artichoke  Bottoms 

Salad  of  Vegetables 


Aspic  of  Vegetables 
Cucumber  and  Tomato  Salad 
Tomato  and  Green  Pepper  Salad 
Turnip  Cups  with  Celery 
Celery  and  Apple  Salad 
Individual  Apple  Salad 
Cabbage  Salad 
Mashed  Potato  Salad 
Shad  Eoe  Salad 
Chicken  Salad 
Chestnut  Salad 
Fruit  Salad 


COLD   SERVICE 


Chicken  Aspic 

Aspic  of  Pate  de  Foie  Gras 

Chicken  Mousse 

Liver  Loaf  or  Cold  Timbale 

Cold  Cut  Meats 

Glazed  Tongue 


Boiled  Ham 
Boned  Ham 
Cold  Fish,  Garnished 
Jellied  Cutlets 
Fish  in  the  Garden 
Cold  Halibut 


For  Buffet 
Luncheons  or 
Fourth  Course 
in  Summer 
Service. 


CHEESE 

Cream  Cheese  with  Bar-le-Duc  Cur-      Gorgonzola 

rants  Roquefort 

Camembert  Etc. 


GAME 

QUAILS  BROILED 

Split  the  quails  down  the  back,  and  broil  them  for  four 
minutes  on  each  side.  Spread  them  with  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt.  Serve  them  on  toast. 


QUAILS  ROASTED 

Lay  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  over  well-trussed  birds.  Bake 
them  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Have  in 
the  baking-pan  a  little  water,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  baste 
the  quails  frequently. 

Serve  on  slices  of  toast  moistened  with  drippings  from 
the  pan. 

SQUABS 

Cook  the  same  as  directed  for  quails. 


SALADS 

FRENCH  DRESSING 

3  tablespoonfuls  of  oil, 
1  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
^  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
£  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Mix  the  salt  and  pepper  with  the  oil,  then  add  slowly  the 
vinegar,  stirring  all  the  time.  It  will  become  a  little  white 
and  thickened. 

115 


116  LUNCHEONS 

MAYONNAISE   DRESSING 

To  the  yolk  of  an  egg  add  oil  very  slowly  until  the  mix- 
ture becomes  very  thick,  then  add  alternately  vinegar  and 
oil.  Lastly  add  salt  and  pepper. 

The  proportions  are  one  cupful  of  oil  to  one  yolk,  one  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and  one  and  a  half 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  More  or  less  oil 
may  be  used,  but  it  must  be  added  very  slowly  at  first  or  the 
mixture  will  curdle.  Have  all  the  ingredients  cold  before 
beginning  to  mix  the  dressing.  ( See  ' '  Century  Cook  Book, ' ' 
page  288.) 

CREAM   DRESSING 

Add  whipped  cream  to  mayonnaise  or  plain  cream  to 
French  dressing  at  the  moment  of  mixing  them  with  the 
salad.  The  proportions  need  not  be  exact:  a  little  more  or 
less  cream  can  be  used  as  convenient. 

NOTE. — An  onion  rubbed  on  the  dish  in  which  lettuce  is 
to  be  served  improves  the  salad. 

PREPARING   SALADS 

It  is  essential  that  leaf  salads  and  celery  be  dry.  Oil  and 
water  do  not  mix,  and  if  the  salad  is  wet  the  dressing  will 
run  off  it  and  also  lose  its  flavor.  They  should  also  be  crisp 
and  clean.  Divest  them  of  imperfect  portions  and  wash  to 
free  them  of  dust  and  grit.  Examine  lettuce  for  a  small 
green  insect  and  celery  for  a  small  white  worm  which  infest 
them,  then  place  them  in  cold  water  to  refresh  and  crisp 
them. 

Dry  them  carefully,  shaking  lettuce  or  watercress  in  a  wire 
basket,  or  carefully  dry  each  piece  in  a  clean  napkin.  Celery 
may  be  drained  or  wiped.  The  salad  may  be  dried  some- 
time before  using  it,  and  if  kept  near  the  ice  will  retain  its 


NO.  89.      PLAIN  LETTUCE  SALAD. 


NO.   i>0.      HEART  OF  CABBAGE   LETTUCE. 


NO.   91.      BOUQUET   SALAD —  LETTUCE   AND   WATEKCKE88  OK  NASTUKT1UM8. 


NO.   92.      BOUQUET  SALAD.      SHRKDDED   LETTUCE    AND   HARD-BOILED  EGGS. 


NO.   93.      BOUQUET   SALAD.      LETTUCE.      TOMATOES.      EGGS. 


NO.   94.      BOUQUET  SALAD.    ARRANGED  IN  FIVE  LINES  OF  COLOR.    RADISHES,  CUT  TO 

RESEMBLE    ROSES,  IN  CENTER   ON    A  LAYER  OF  CELERY  CUT  INTO  SMALL  DICE. 

AROUND   THE   CELERY    A    RING   OF   WATERCRESS.      BOILED  BEETS  CUT  INTO 

STRIPS  ARoUNDTHE  WATERCRESS.    LETTUCE  CUT  INTO  RIBBONS  AROUND 

THE   BEETS.      THE   WHOLE   MOISTENED   WITH   FRENCH   DRESSING. 


GAME  — SALADS— COLD  SERVICE— CHEESE     117 

crispness,  but  the  dressing  must  not  be  put  on  until  the  mo- 
ment of  serving,  as  it  wilts  the  leaves.  The  same  rule  applies 
to  vegetables  used  as  salads :  they  should  be  dry  and  cold. 

There  need  be  no  waste  in  lettuce.  The  imperfect  and 
hard  leaves  may  be  boiled  and  used  as  directed  on  page  55 
for  green  eggs.  The  rejected  outside  leaves  of  one  head  will 
be  enough  for  one  or  two  eggs,  or  they  may  be  used  with 
other  odds  and  ends  of  vegetables  to  give  a  macedoine  gar- 
nishing to  a  meat  dish. 

SALADS 

Of  the  many  articles  used  for  salad,  lettuce  is  preeminently 
first  in  favor.  It  is  the  king  of  salads ;  and,  whatever  else  is 
used,  lettuce  usually  forms  part  of  the  dish  to  make  it  com- 
plete. A  plain  lettuce  is  always  acceptable  and  can  be  served 
in  several  forms.  Combined  with  one  or  more  articles  equally 
common,  a  number  of  bouquet  salads  can  easily  be  made,  giv- 
ing dishes  attractive  both  in  taste  and  color.  The  bouquet 
salads  should  be  placed  on  flat  dishes  in  order  to  show  the 
arrangement,  color,  and  variety  of  articles  used. 

A  variety  in  salads  is  desirable ;  and,  as  they  can  be  eaten 
every  day,  a  little  change  in  the  combinations  will  give 
variety. 

The  use  of  nasturtium  blossoms  is  recommended.  They  are 
not  only  beautiful  to  look  at  and  decorative,  but  have  a 
piquant  flavor.  Combinations  of  green  such  as  are  obtained 
by  lettuce  and  watercress  are  pleasing. 

In  the  illustrations  a  number  of  combinations  are  given 
which  will  suggest  others. 

No.  1.  Plain  lettuce  salad.  The  lettuce  here  is  arranged  to 
resemble  a  cabbage.  For  this  a  head  of  cabbage  let- 
tuce is  used.  The  leaves  are  taken  apart,  carefully 


118  LUNCHEONS 

washed  and  dried,  and  the  stalks  flattened  by  cutting 
a  little  slice  off  the  bottom  to  make  them  stand  up- 
right. They  are  then  put  together  again  in  the  natu- 
ral form,  but  more  spread  open,  and  placed  on  a 
round  platter.  Just  before  serving  a  French  dressing 
is  poured  over  them  with  a  spoon,  to  have  each  leaf 
moistened,  care  being  taken  not  to  disarrange  the 
leaves. 

No.  2.  Lettuce  hearts.  Divest  a  head  of  Boston  cabbage  let- 
tuce of  the  outer  leaves  down  to  the  hard  head.  With 
a  sharp  knife  cut  the  head  into  quarters  and  arrange 
them  on  a  dish  with  the  stalk  ends  toward  the  center. 
Sprinkle  over  them,  or  not,  a  little  celery  cut  into 
small  dice.  If  celery  is  used,  place  a  little  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  dish  and  between  the  quarters.  At  the  mo- 
ment of  serving  pour  French  dressing,  using  a  spoon, 
into  the  lettuce  hearts,  moistening  them  well. 

The  outside  leaves  taken  from  the  head  can  be 
broken  into  small  pieces  or  cut  into  ribbons  and  used 
as  shown  in  other  illustrations. 

No.  3.  Bouquet  salad.  Break  crisp  lettuce  leaves  into  pieces, 
arrange  them  on  a  flat  dish,  and  place  in  the  center 
a  bunch  of  watercress  or  of  nasturtium  blossoms. 
Just  before  serving  moisten  the  lettuce  with  French 
dressing,  and  the  watercress  also  if  it  is  used. 

No.  4.  Bouquet  salad.  Place  a  number  of  crisp  lettuce  leaves 
together,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  them  across  into 
strips  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide.  Pile  the 
ribbons  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  place  slices  of 
hard-boiled  eggs  around  them.  Moisten  with  French 
dressing  at  the  moment  of  serving. 


NO.  95.      BOCQUET  SALAD.     A  MOUND  OF  CELERY,  CCT  INTO  DICE,  IX  THE  CEXTER. 

KADISHES,  CUT  TO  BESEMBLE  ROSES,    PLACED   AROUND  THE  CELERY 

AXD  ONE  ON  TOP.      WATERCRESS  AROUND  THE  WHOLE. 

ALL  MOISTENED  WITH  FRENCH  DRESSING. 


NO.  96.     BOUQUET  SALAD.      PILE   OF  CUT  BEKTS   IN  THE  CENTER.  SURROUNDED 

BY  ALTERNATE  TILES  OF   CELERY   AND  WATERCRESS.      A  RADISH 

ON   EACH  PILE   OF  CELERY.      ALL  MOISTENED 

WITH   FRENCH  DRESSING. 


,      BOUQUET  SALAD.      HARD-BOILED   EGGS  ON   A  BED   OF   MAYONNAISE. 
CIRCLE   OF   CUT  BEETS   AROUND  THE   MAYONNAISE.      LETTUCE 
CUT  INTO   RIBBONS   AROUND  THE  BEETS. 


NO.   98.      SALAD  OF  ASPARAGUS  TIPS.      A   PILE    OF  BOILED    ASPARAGUS  TIPS  SUR- 
ROUNDED BY  A   WREATH   OF  WHITE    LETTUCE  LEAVES  AND  RADISHES 
CUT  TO  RESEMBLE   ROSES,  PLACED  ALTERNATELY.      ALL 
MOISTENED  WITH    FRENCH   DRESSING. 


NO.   <J9.      SALAD   OF   ARTICHOKE   BOTTOMS,   LETTUCE,   AND  PEAS, 
WITH   MAYONNAISE. 


GAME  — SALADS  — COLD  SERVICE— CHEESE  119 

No.  5.  Bouquet  salad.  Use  a  good  head  of  cabbage  lettuce. 
Arrange  the  white  leaves,  in  a  bunch  resembling  the 
natural  head,  in  the  center  of  a  flat  dish.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  tomato  and  hard-boiled  eggs.  Just  be- 
fore serving  cover  the  whole  with  plain  French 
dressing.  Use  a  spoon  and  pour  the  dressing  on 
carefully  so  that  all  the  parts  will  be  moistened 
without  being  disarranged. 

Mayonnaise  may  be  used  on  the  eggs  and  tomato 
if  preferred,  in  which  case  the  dressing  should  be 
put  on  the  eggs  in  the  cups  under  the  yolks. 

Salads  Nos.  6-7-8-9.  Bouquet  salads  arranged  as  ex- 
plained in  legends  under  the  illustrations. 

No.  10.  Daisy  salad.  Select  tender  green  leaves  of  lettuce. 
Cut  the  stalks  so  that  the  leaves  will  lie  straight  and 
keep  in  place.  Put  a  spoonful  of  mayonnaise  in 
each  leaf,  then  arrange  on  each  one  in  rosette  form 
the  white  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  cut  lengthwise  into 
strips,  and  place  a  whole  yolk  in  the  center. 

No.  11.  Salad  of  asparagus  tips.      See  illustration  No.  98. 

No.  12.  Salad  of  artichoke  bottoms.  Take  artichoke  bottoms 
as  they  come  from  the  can.  Rinse  them  off  with  cold 
water.  Spread  each  one  with  mayonnaise  and  pile 
on  it  as  many  vegetables  as  it  will  hold.  Use  green 
peas,  string  beans,  flowerets  of  cauliflower,  or  any 
mixture  of  vegetables  that  may  be  convenient.  Place 
a  little  mayonnaise  on  top  of  the  vegetables,  and 
place  the  artichoke  cups  on  leaves  of  lettuce  ar- 
ranged around  a  bed  of  mayonnaise.  Or  a  glass 
or  cup  filled  with  mayonnaise  can  be  placed  in  the 


120  LUNCHEONS 

center  of  the  dish  and  the  individual  portions  ar- 
ranged around  it. 

No.  13.  Vegetable  salad.  Mix  together  equal  portions  of  cold 
boiled  string  beans,  cut  in  half-inch  lengths,  and 
lima  beans.  Pile  them  on  a  flat  dish  with  a  sur- 
rounding border  of  lettuce  leaves.  Pour  over  them 
slowly  plenty  of  French  dressing. 

This  is  a  good  hot-weather  salad  to  serve  with 
cold  meats  on  hot  days  when  hot  dishes  are  not  ac- 
ceptable. 

No.  14.  Macedoine  of  vegetables.  Boil  small  portions  of  as 
many  different  kinds  of  vegetables  as  convenient, 
and  keep  them  in  separate  dishes.  When  they  are 
cold,  and  shortly  before  serving,  moisten  them  with 
French  dressing.  Just  before  serving  mix  them  to- 
gether, adding  some  mayonnaise. 

Peas,  string  beans,  lima  beans,  flageolets,  carrots, 
cut  into  dice,  and  beets  cut  into  dice,  make  a  good 
combination. 

No.  15.  Aspic  of  vegetables  en  bellevue.  Fill  individual  tim- 
bale  molds  with  any  or  with  different  kinds  of  vege- 
tables, then  turn  in  enough  aspic  (see  page  125)  to 
cover  them,  and  place  them  in  the  ice-box  to  set. 

Use  these  forms  on  cold  fish  or  meat  dishes  with 
mayonnaise  under  them.  They  require  a  dressing, 
but  if  it  were  mixed  with  the  vegetables  it  would 
cloud  the  jelly. 

No.  16.  Cucumber  and  tomato  salad.  Peel  the  tomatoes,  cut 
them  in  two,  and  cover  each  piece  with  mayonnaise. 
Place  them  on  one  side  of  a  vegetable-dish,  and  on 


NO.   100.      TURNIP  CUPS  HOLDING  CELERY   MIXED   WITH   MAYONNAISE. 


NO.   101.      CELERY  AND  APPLE   WITH  CREAM   MAYONNAISE. 


NO.   102.      INDIVIDUAL  APPLE  SALAD.      CELERY  AND  APPLE  MIXED  WITH 
CREAM  MAYONNAISE,   SERVED  IN  APPLES.      GARNISHED 
WITH   A  WHITE   LETTUCE  LEAF. 


GAME  — SALADS  — COLD   SERVICE  —  CHEESE  121 

the  other  side  place  sliced  cucumbers  moistened  with 
French  dressing.  Separate  the  two  with  crisp  leaves 
of  lettuce. 

No.  17.  Tomato  and  green  pepper  salad.  Cut  peeled  toma- 
toes into  slices  three  eighths  of  an  inch  thick.  Cover 
them  with  a  thick  layer  of  chopped  green  peppers. 
Place  them  in  the  center  of  the  dish  with  a  border 
of  crisp  lettuce  leaves.  Moisten  the  whole  with 
French  dressing. 

No.  18.  Turnip  cups  with  celery.  Select  turnips  of  uniform 
size  and  not  too  large.  Cut  off  the  tops  to  give  a 
flat  surface  for  the  bottom  of  the  cups.  Cut  a  slice 
about  two  inches  thick  from  each  turnip.  With  a 
fluted  knife  pare  the  outside  into  rounding  shape, 
then  with  a  potato-scoop  take  out  the  centers  and 
form  a  cup. 

Leave  the  cups  in  water  until  ready  to  use ;  they 
will  keep  twenty-four  hours  or  more  in  this  way. 
Chop  some  parsley  very  fine  and  spread  it  on  a 
board.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the  cups  and  press  them 
on  the  parsley.  This  will  give  a  green  edge  around 
the  tops.  Fill  the  cups  with  celery  mayonnaise,  or 
with  any  vegetable  salad. 

No.  19.  Celery  and  apple  salad.  Cut  a  bunch  of  crisp  white 
celery  into  small  bits,  add  a  chopped  green  pepper 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pimento.  Mix  it  with 
mayonnaise.  Cut  into  dice  one  quarter  as  much 
apple  as  you  have  of  celery.  Just  before  serving 
mix  it  with  the  celery,  and  the  whole  with  whipped 
cream. 
Pile  the  salad  in  a  mound  on  a  flat  dish  and  gar- 


122  LUNCHEONS 

nish  it  with  lettuce  or  other  leaves  and  radishes. 
For  one  bunch  of  celery  there  will  be  needed  two 
apples  and  a  half  pint  of  cream. 

The  celery  is  quickly  prepared  by  cutting  the 
stalks  into  strips  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then 
laying  them  together  in  a  pile  and  cutting  them 
all  together  into  lengths  of  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
or  less.  Tart  apples  of  good  flavor  should  be  used. 
Eemove  the  seeds  and  ribs  of  the  green  pepper  and 
cut  it  into  fine  bits.  Pimentos  are  Spanish  red  pep- 
pers and  are  very  mild.  They  come  in  cans  and 
can  be  bought  at  the  grocer's. 

No.  20.  Individual  apple  salad.  Select  apples  that  are  best 
both  in  color  and  flavor.  Take  out  the  core  care- 
fully, using  a  pointed  knife,  and  make  the  hollow 
on  the  stem  end.  An  apple-corer  can  be  used,  in 
which  case  the  end  piece  should  be  put  back  again 
to  plug  the  bottom.  The  wall  of  the  apple  should 
be  half  an  inch  thick.  Fill  the  hollowed  out  apple 
with  creamed  celery  and  apple  mixture,  as  given  on 
page  121,  omitting  the  green  pepper  and  pimento. 
Serve  on  individual  plates  with  one  white  lettuce 
leaf  at  the  side  of  each  apple. 

No.  21.  Cabbage  salad.  Add  to  a  cupful  of  cream  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one 
half  teaspoonful  each  of  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar,  and 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  celery  seeds.  Put  all  this  in 
a  double  boiler  and  stir  until  it  thickens.  Let  it  cool. 
AVhen  ready  to  serve  add  to  the  dressing  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  and  mix  it  with  cabbage 
chopped  fine.  Serve  in  cabbage  leaves  as  shown 


NO.   103.      CABBAGE  SALAD.      SERVED   IN  CABBAGE  LEAVES. 


NO.   104.      MASHED  POTATO  SALAD. 


XO.    105.      SHAD  ROE   SALAD. 


>.   106.      CHICKEN  SALAD. 


GAME  — SALADS  — COLD  SEE  VICE— CHEESE  123 

in  illustration.     Cold  slaw  may  be  served  in  the 
same  way. 

No.  22.  Mashed  potato  salad.  To  a  quart  or  a  little  more  of 
mashed  potatoes  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  onion  juice  and  salt,  a  dash  of 
nutmeg,  one  half  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  pickled  beets  chopped  fine,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  cucumber  pickle  chopped  fine,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  taken  from  the  pickled-beet  jar. 
Beat  all  together  until  the  potato  is  light.  The  beet 
vinegar  will  color  it  pink.  If  a  deeper  color  is  wanted 
add  a  little  more  of  the  red  vinegar.  The  potato 
should  be  a  moist  puree.  If  the  salad  is  too  dry 
after  the  ingredients  are  in  add  a  little  soup  stock 
or  water.  Shape  into  a  mound  without  pressing 
it,  and  garnish  it  with  slices  of  beets,  pickles,  and 
lettuce. 

No.  23.  Shad  roe  salad.  Wash  the  roe  carefully  and  place 
it  in  salted  water.  The  water  must  not  boil  or  it  will 
break  the  skin.  Simmer  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Af- 
ter cooling  cut  it  with  a  sharp  knife  into  slices  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  thick.  Place  the  slices,  overlapping, 
on  a  dish.  Garnish  with  lettuce  leaves.  Pour  over 
the  roe  a  plentiful  amount  of  French  dressing. 

No.  24.  Chicken  salad.  Cut  cold  chicken  into  half-inch  dice, 
using  both  white  and  dark  meat.  Moisten  it  with 
French  dressing.  Cut  tender  celery  into  small  dice 
and  mix  it  with  the  chicken,  using  two  thirds  as 
much  celery  as  there  is  of  chicken.  Mix  the  whole 
with  mayonnaise.  Form  it  into  a  mound.  Cover  it 
with  mayonnaise.  Decorate  the  mound  as  follows: 


124  LUNCHEONS 

Begin  at  the  top  and  form  four  lines  of  chopped 
pickled  beet,  dividing  the  form  into  four  sections. 
Follow  the  lines  of  beet  with  lines  of  chopped  white 
of  hard-boiled  eggs.  This  will  leave  triangular 
spaces.  Make  another  line  of  beets  and  fill  the 
spaces  left  with  the  crumbed  yolks  of  hard-boiled 
eggs.  Outline  the  small  triangular  spaces  with  ca- 
pers and  finish  the  top  with  an  olive  and  sprigs  of 
parsley.  Place  lettuce  leaves  and  slices  of  hard- 
boiled  egg  around  the  dish.  Veal  instead  of  chicken 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  Lobster  salad  should 
be  mixed  with  lettuce  instead  of  celery. 
No.  25.  Chestnut  salad.  Mix  together  two  cupfuls  each  of 
tart  apples  cut  into  half-inch  dice,  celery  cut  into 
small  pieces,  and  boiled  chestnuts  cut  into  half-inch 
pieces. 

Put  in  a  double  boiler : 

2    tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 

9    tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 

•J    teaspoonful  of  sugar, 

1|  teaspoonfuls  of  mustard, 

1    teaspoonful  of  salt, 

}    teaspoonful  of  pepper, 

yolks  of  four  eggs. 

Beat  all  this  well  together  and  stir  until  thick- 
ened. After  it  has  cooled  and  just  before  serving 
add  the  dressing  and  a  cupful  of  whipped  cream  to 
the  salad  mixture. 

Xo.  26.  Fruit  salads.    Fruits  are  sometimes  mixed  with  may- 
onnaise and  used  as  a  salad. 

The  following  mixtures  may  be  used:  Pineapple, 
oranges,  and  apples.  Grape-fruit,  oranges,  and 
canned  pears.  Pineapple  and  banana.  Apple  and 
grape-fruit,  Garnish  with  lettuce  leaves. 


GAME  — SALADS  — COLD  SERVICE— CHEESE  125 


COLD   SERVICE 

CHICKEN  ASPIC 

Make  a  chicken  stock  as  for  chicken  consomme,  page  46. 
Use  a  knuckle  of  veal  and  as  many  quarts  of  water  as  you 
have  pounds  of  meat.  Remove  the  breast  of  the  fowl  when  it 
is  tender.  Clarify  the  stock,  and  if  it  has  not  made  a  jelly 
firm  enough  to  stand  add  a  little  gelatine,— a  tablespoonful 
of  granulated  gelatine  to  a  quart  of  stock  will  perhaps  be 
more  than  enough,  for  the  jelly  must  not  be  too  hard,  and  the 
jellied  stock  may  need  but  very  little  extra  stiffness  to  make 
it  hold  its  shape  when  molded. 

Ornament  the  bottom  of  a  ring-mold  with  slices  of  the 
white  of  hard-boiled  egg  cut  into  diamond-shaped  pieces. 
Lay  the  pieces,  with  thin  strips  of  egg  between  them,  in  a 
manner  to  imitate  a  wreath  of  leaves.  A  long  pin  will  be 
useful  in  arranging  the  pieces  of  egg.  Put  the  mold  in  a 
bowl  of  cracked  ice,  and  with  a  spoon  add  a  very  little  liquid 
jelly,  taking  care  not  to  use  enough  to  float  the  pieces  of  egg. 
When  it  has  set  sufficiently  to  hold  the  decoration  in  place 
add  enough  more  jelly  to  make  a  layer  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  When  the  layer  has  stiffened,  put  in  a  layer  of 
chicken  breast  cut  into  inch  lengths,  so  the  jelly  will  not  be 
torn  apart  when  being  served,  but  place  the  pieces  close  to- 
gether so  they  appear  like  large  pieces.  Add  more  jelly,  let- 
ting it  rise  a  quarter  of  an  inch  above  the  chicken ;  when  that 
has  stiffened,  add  another  layer  of  chicken  and  fill  the  mold 
with  jelly.  Let  the  mold  be  level  and  have  a  smooth  layer 
of  gelatine  on  top,  so  when  unmolded  it  will  stand  firm  and 
even. 

Fill  the  center  of  the  ring  with  celery  mayonnaise,  or  a 
macedoine  vegetable  salad. 


126  LUNCHEONS 

ASPIC  OF  PATE   DE  FOIE   GRAS 

Make  a  chicken  aspic  as  directed  above.  When  a  mold  is 
used  which  has  projections  on  top,  as  in  illustration,  the  jelly 
must  be  made  a  little  firmer  than  for  a  plain  mold.  Pour 
into  the  mold  a  layer  of  jelly,  let  it  stiffen,  and  then  add  a 
layer  of  pate  de  foie  gras  and  a  little  jelly  to  set  it.  Then 
fill  the  mold  with  jelly.  Care  must  be  taken  in  unmolding 
this  form,  for  if  held  a  moment  too  long  in  hot  water  the 
points  will  fall  off  or  lose  shape. 


CHICKEN  MOUSSE 

Put  through  a  chopper  cooked  chicken,  using  the  white 
or  the  dark  meat,  or  both.  Grind  it  a  second  time,  if  neces- 
sary, to  make  it  very  fine.  If  a  meat-chopper  is  not  at  hand, 
chop  it  by  hand,  pound  it  to  free  the  meat  from  the  fiber, 
and  rub  it  through  a  puree  sieve. 

Heat  a  cupful  of  chicken  stock,  pour  it  over  the  beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  a  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and  celery 
salt,  a  dash  of  pepper  and  of  paprika.  Return  it  to  the  fire 
and  stir  until  it  has  thickened  like  a  boiled  custard;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  gelatine  which  has  soaked 
for  an  hour  in  a  quarter  cupful  of  cold  chicken  stock.  When 
the  gelatine  has  dissolved,  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  add 
one  and  one  half  cupfuls  of  the  fine  chicken  meat.  When 
the  mixture  begins  to  thicken  stir  it  perfectly  smooth  and 
fold  in  a  half  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Turn 
it  into  a  brick  mold.  The  cream  must  not  be  added  until 
the  mixture  begins  to  set,  or  the  ingredients  will  settle  into 
layers. 

Serve  with  lettuce  or  celery  salad. 


NO.   107.      CHICKEN  ASPIC. 


NO.   108.     ASPIC  OF  PATE  DE  FOIE  GRAS. 


NO.    109.      SLICED   COLD   MEATS. 


GAME  —  SALADS  —  COLD  SERVICE  —  CHEESE  127 

LIVER  LOAF  OR  COLD   TIMBALE 

Line  a  pint  brick  mold  with  thin  slices  of  larding  pork. 
Pour  in  liver  timbale  mixture  given  on  page  78.  Fill  the 
mold  to  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  top.  Cover  it  with 
slices  of  pork.  Set  it  in  a  pan  of  water  and  cook  in  a  slow 
oven  for  one  hour,  or  until  firm  to  the  touch. 

Serve  cold  in  slices  with  salad. 

COLD  SLICED  MEATS 

Illustration  No.  109  shows  an  attractive  way  of  serving 
cold  meats.  On  the  right  are  overlapping  slices  of  cold 
tongue;  on  the  left,  slices  of  beef.  A  slice  of  tongue  cut 
round  is  placed  in  the  center  to  cover  the  spot  where  they 
meet.  Slices  of  cold  chicken  are  placed  at  right  angles  to  the 
tongue  and  beef.  Aspic  jelly  is  placed  in  the  four  angles. 
The  garnishing  is  sliced  pickled  beets  cut  into  stars  and 
hearts,  and  small  pickles  or  gherkins  sliced  down  to  nearly 
the  end,  then  spread  into  leaf  shapes.  The  stars  are  placed 
on  the  sliced  meat,  the  hearts  on  the  dish  in  front  of  the 
jelly,  with  a  slice  of  pickle  on  each  side,  and  the  leaf-like 
gherkins  are  in  the  center. 

The  aspic  used  in  this  dish  was  jellied  stock  made  a 
little  stiffer  with  gelatine. 

Cold  meats  may  also  be  attractively  served  by  placing  a 
socle  made  of  hominy  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  the  top  of  the 
hominy  ornamented  with  aspic  or  any  garnishes,  and  the 
sliced  meats  laid  around  and  against  the  socle. 

GLAZED   TONGUE 

Boil  a  smoked  or  a  fresh  tongue  until  tender,  then  skin  and 
trim  it.  While  it  is  flexible  skewer  it  into  a  good  shape. 
Paint  it  with  glaze  (page  104). 

"Whip  some  butter  with  a  fork  until  it  is  soft  and  very 


128  LUNCHEONS 

light.  Place  the  whipped  butter  in  a  pastry-bag  with  star 
tube  and  press  it  through,  outlining  a  figure  on  the  sides  of 
the  tongue  and  down  the  middle. 

Garnish  the  dish  with  parsley  and  a  hard-boiled  egg.  Cut 
the  white  of  the  egg  in  strips  lengthwise,  leave  the  yolk 
whole,  and  arrange  the  pieces  so  they  resemble  a  daisy. 

Keep  the  garnished  tongue  in  a  cold  place  until  ready  to 
serve,  in  order  to  harden  the  butter. 

BOILED   HAM 

Soak  the  ham  overnight,  with  the  rind  side  up.  Thor- 
oughly wash  and  scrape  off  any  bad  parts.  Put  it  in  suffi- 
cient cold  water  to  cover  it  well.  Add  a  bunch  of  soup  vege- 
tables and  two  bay-leaves.  Boil  it  slowly,  allowing  twenty 
minutes  to  the  pound,  counting  from  the  time  the  water 
begins  to  boil.  It  is  done  when  the  meat  around  the  bone  is 
tender.  Place  it  on  a  board,  peel  off  the  skin,  and  by  trim- 
ming make  it  smooth  and  shapely.  Take  a  slice  off  the  bot- 
tom, if  necessary,  to  make  it  stand  firmly.  Serve  it  hot  or 
cold. 

In  illustration  No.  Ill  the  ham  after  being  trimmed  is 
covered  with  cracker  dust  and  sugar  and  placed  in  the 
oven  to  brown.  The  bone  is  covered  with  a  pleated  paper 
frill,  and  a  lemon  cut  to  imitate  a  pig  (see  page  16)  is  set 
on  top. 

In  illustration  No.  112  black  pepper  is  placed  in  spots 
on  the  fat,  and  then  with  the  finger  is  rubbed  into  regular 
circles.  A  whole  clove  is  stuck  in  the  center  of  each  spot 
of  pepper.  If  the  ham  is  to  be  served  cold  the  parts  not 
covered  by  fat  can  be  concealed  with  a  layer  of  butter; 
the  butter  should  be  whipped  until  smooth  and  soft  and 
then  spread  evenly  with  a  knife.  In  this  way  the  whole  ham 
can  be  made  smooth  and  the  spots  of  pepper  can  be  extended 
entirely  over  it. 


NO.   110.      GLAZED  TONGUE,  GARNISHED  WITH    BUTTER 


NO.   111.      BOILED   HAM,  NO.   1. 


NO.   112.      BOILED  HAM,  NO.  2. 


NO.   113.      GLAZED  BONED  HAM  GARNISHED   WITH  WATEBCRES8. 


NO.    111.      COLD  FISH  COVERED   WITH   JELLIED  .MAYONNAISE  AND  GARNISHED 
WITH   BEETS   AND   OLIVES. 


NO.   115.      CREAM  CHEESE    WITH  BAR-LE-DUC  Ct.'RRAN'TS. 


GAME  — SALADS— COLD  SERVICE  —  CHEESE  129 

The  bone  is  covered  with  a  paper  f.rill  (page  14).    The  dish 
is  garnished  with  slices  of  pickled  beets  stamped  into  rounds. 


BONED  HAM 

Boil  the  ham  as  directed  above.  While  it  is  still  hot  strip 
off  the  skin,  then  turn  it  over  and  remove  the  bone.  If  the 
ham  is  thoroughly  cooked,  the  bone  will  come  out  easily. 
Make  a  cut  down  to  and  along  the  bone  in  the  center  of  the 
under  side,  then  work  the  knife  around  and  close  to  the  bone 
until  the  latter  is  loosened  enough  to  be  pulled  out. 

Lay  the  boned  ham  on  a  cloth,  draw  it  together  and  sew 
the  cloth  around  it,  pressing  the  ham  firmly  together,  and 
giving  it  a  good  shape.  Place  a  board  and  heavy  weights 
on  the  ham,  and  let  it  cool  while  under  this  pressure. 

Remove  the  cloth.  Trim  it  again,  if  necessary.  Cover  it 
\vith  a  meat  glaze  (see  page  104).  Garnish  with  a  wreath 
of  watercress. 

COLD  FISH 

Garnished  cold  fish  makes  an  ornamental  and  useful  dish 
for  buffet  luncheons,  and  for  summer  service,  when  cold 
dishes  of  any  kind  are  acceptable.  Illustration  No.  114 
shows  a  bluefish  boiled  in  upright  position,  covered  with 
jellied  mayonnaise  and  garnished  with  pickled  beets,  cran- 
berries, and  gherkins.  It  is  placed  on  a  layer  of  bread  to 
raise  it  on  the  dish.  To  prepare  the  dish,  place  a  carrot 
inside  the  fish  to  give  it  stability,  then  tie  and  prop  it  with 
vegetables  on  the  kettle-strainer,  in  the  position  desired. 
Boil  it  slowly,  allowing  ten  minutes  to  the  pound.  Put  soup 
vegetables,  a  bay-leaf,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  in 
the  water.  When  cooked,  lift  the  fish  out  carefully  and  let 
it  get  cold  before  removing  it  from  the  strainer. 

Take  off  the  skin  and  cover  it  with  a  mayonnaise  made  as 


130  LUNCHEONS 

follows:  Heat  a  cupful  of  clear  beef  or  chicken  stock,  and 
dissolve  in  it  one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated 
gelatine  which  has  soaked  for  an  hour  in  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water.  "When  it  has  cooled  add  half  a  cupful  of  oil, 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  or  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  teaspoon- 
f  ul  of  salt,  a  dash  of  pepper,  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg. 
When  it  begins  to  set  spread  it  over  the  fish  with  a  knife. 
It  will  give  a  smooth,  polished  yellow  covering.  Garnish  with 
slices  of  pickled  beets  stamped  into  various  shapes. 

Bass,  salmon,  bluefish,  and  halibut  are  good  varieties  to 
serve  cold.  They  may  be  masked  with  the  aspic  mayonnaise 
given  above,  or  with  a  plain,  thick  mayonnaise,  or  with  tar- 
tare  sauce,  or  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter.  The  covering 
should  be  spread  with  a  knife  to  make  it  smooth,  and  the 
fish  kept  in  a  cool  place  until  the  time  of  serving.  Hard- 
boiled  eggs,  capers,  pickles,  lettuce,  watercress,  and  pars- 
ley are  suitable  garnishes. 

JELLIED   CUTLETS 

Cut  cold  boiled  sheepshead  or  other  fish  into  flat,  even 
pieces,  each  piece  a  size  suitable  for  one  portion.  Lay  them 
in  a  pan,  leaving  spaces  between  them.  Place  on  each  piece 
a  thin  slice  of  hard-boiled  egg,  then  pour  over  them  just 
enough  aspic  jelly  to  cover  them.  The  aspic  should  have 
a  little  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  mixed  with  it  to  make  it  tart. 
When  the  jelly  is  set,  cut  the  pieces  apart  with  a  sharp 
knife  and  arrange  them  on  a  dish  with  creamed  horseradish 
sauce. 

FISH  IN  THE   GARDEN 

Skin  a  cold  boiled  trout,  bass,  or  other  fish.  Cover  it  with 
mayonnaise,  or  with  maitre  d 'hotel  butter.  Garnish  it  with 
aspic  jelly  and  surround  it  with  vegetables  molded  in  jelly 
as  in  illustration  No.  6.  Use  peas,  beans,  celery,  etc. 


GAME— SALADS  — COLD  SERVICE  —  CHEESE  131 

COLD   HALIBUT 

Cover  a  thick  piece  of  boiled  halibut  with  mayonnaise. 
Sprinkle  the  top  with  chopped  capers.  Garnish  it  with  po- 
tato salad,  the  potatoes  being  cut  into  balls. 

CHEESE 

CREAM  CHEESE  WITH  BAE-LE-DUC  CURRANTS 

Beat  with  a  fork  a  square  of  Philadelphia  cream  cheese, 
or  of  domestic  Neufchatel,  until  it  is  light  and  smooth. 
Whip  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth.  Mix  the 
cheese  and  whipped  cream  together  lightly  and  pile  the 
mixture  on  a  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Put  it  in  a  cool 
place.  Just  before  serving  pour  over  it  a  glassful  of  Bar-le- 
Duc  red  currants. 


CHAPTEE  X 

NINTH  COURSE 
HOT  DESSERTS-COLD   DESSERTS-PIES-TARTS 


HOT   DESSERTS 


Farina  Croquettes 
Pudding,  Huckleberry 
Pudding,  Chocolate  Bread 
Pudding,  Cocoanut  Bread 
Pudding,  Fig 
Pudding,  Green-Gage 
Pudding,  Tapioca,  with  Prunes 
Bananas,  Sauted 

COLD 

Apples  Richelieu 
Apples,  Stewed,  No.  1 
Apples,  Stewed,  No.  2 
Apples,  Baked 
Figs,  Compote  of 
Apricots,  Compote  of 
Pears,  Compote  of 
Bananas  and  Cream 
Strawberries  and  Cream 
Peaches  and  Cream 
Bread  and  Jam  Tartlets 
Pine  Cones 

Pudding,  Cornstarch,  No.  1 
Pudding,  Cornstarch,  No.  2 
Pudding,  Cornstarch,  No.  3 
Pudding,  Cornstareh,  No.  4 
Pudding,  Peach 
Pudding,  Tapioca 
Pudding,  Rice  Prune 
Pudding,  Jellied  Apple 


Bananas,  Baked,  No.  1 
Bananas,  Baked,  No.  2 
Quinces,  Baked 
Strawberry  Souffle 
Fruit  and  other  Souffles 
Burning  Peaches 
Burning  Cherries 

DESSERTS 

Pudding,  Pineapple 

Savarins 

Babas 

Coffee  Mousse 

Peach  Mousse 

Chestnut  Puree 

Chestnut  Bavarian 

Charlotte  Russe 

Charlotte  Russe,  Strawberry,  No.  1 

Charlotte  Russe,  Strawberry,  No.  2 

Meringue  Ring 

Meringue  Crown 

Meringue  Cream  Tart,  No.  1 

Meringue  Cream  Tart,  No.  2 

Meringues    filled    with    Whipped 

Cream  or  Ice  Cream 
Chocolate  Cream 
Chocolate  Sponge 
Sliced  Bavarian  Cream  Garnished 

with  Cream  Cakes 


PIES-TARTS 


Jam  Tart  of  Puff  Paste 

Strawberry  Tartlets 

Frangipane  Tartlets 

Frangipane  Cream 

Fruit  Tartlets 

Jalousies 

Pie,  Cranberry 


Pie,  Cocoanut 
Pie,  Currant 
Pie,  Lemon,  No.  1 
Pie,  Lemon,  No.  2 
Strawberry  Cake,  No.  1 
Strawberry  Cake,  No.  2 
Currant  Shortcake 


HOT  DESSERTS 

FARINA  CROQUETTES 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  milk  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
into  a  double  boiler.  When  the  milk  is  hot  add  half  a  cupful 
of  farina,  and  moisten  with  a  little  milk  to  make  it  smooth. 
Cook  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  it  is  well  thickened, 
then  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  When  it  is  cold  mold  it  into 
small  croquettes.  Eoll  the  croquettes  in  egg  and  white 
bread  crumbs,  or  cracker  dust,  and  fry  in  smoking-hot  fat 
to  a  bright  yellow  color. 

Serve  with  maple  sugar  scraped  from  the  cake. 


HUCKLEBERRY  PUDDING 

2  cupfuls  of  flour, 
^  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
2  cupfuls  of  berries, 

1  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder, 
^  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
1  teaspoonful  of  butter, 
Milk. 

Mix  well  the  sugar,  salt,  and  baking  powder  with  the 
flour,  then  rub  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  and  stir  in  quickly 
enough  milk  to  make  a  batter  which  will  drop  from  the  spoon. 
Add  the  berries  well  floured,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a 
greased  quart  pudding-mold.  Steam  or  boil  it  for  half  an 
hour. 

135 


136  LUNCHEONS 

It  should  be  mixed  quickly  and  the  water  should  not  be 
allowed  to  fall  below  the  boiling-point  while  the  pudding 
is  cooking.  Serve  with  any  pudding  sauce. 

CHOCOLATE  BREAD  PUDDING 

1  cupful  of  stale  crumb  of  bread, 

2  cupfuls  of  milk, 
£  cupful  of  sugar, 

3  squares  of  unsweetened  chocolate, 
£  teaspoonful  of  vanilla, 

1  egg. 

Scald  the  milk  and  turn  it  over  the  bread,  broken  into 
small  pieces.  Let  it  soak  until  the  bread  is  soft,  then  beat  it 
with  a  fork  to  a  smooth  pulp  and  add  the  chocolate,  melted, 
the  sugar,  vanilla,  and  yolk  of  the  egg,  also  a  dash  of  salt. 
Lastly  fold  in  the  white  of  the  egg  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 

Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

COCOANUT  BREAD  PUDDING 

Pour  a  cupful  of  scalded  milk  over  a  cupful  of  b'roken 
bits  of  crumb  of  bread.  Let  the  bread  soak  until  softened, 
then  beat  it  to  smoothness.  Add  a  cupful  of  grated  cocoanut, 
half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Mix  well,  and  then  add  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

FIG  PUDDING 

Weigh  three  eggs;  take  the  same  weight  of  butter,  sugar, 
figs,  and  of  crumb  of  bread.  Chop  the  figs,  put  a  little  hot 
water  on  them,  and  cook  them  to  a  pulp.  Grate  the  bread 
to  very  fine  crumbs.  Mix  together  the  butter  and  sugar, 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS     137 

add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the  figs  and  the  crumbs, 
and  lastly  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  a  covered  quart  mold,  and  steam  for 
two  and  a  half  hours ;  or  put  it  into  individual  timbale  molds, 
set  them  into  a  pan  of  water,  cover  them  with  a  greased 
paper,  and  cook  in  an  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  or  until  firm 
to  the  touch.  At  the  moment  of  serving  pour  over  them  a 
little  rum  or  brandy  and  light  it  with  a  taper. 

Serve  with  wine  sauce,  or  with  any  other  pudding  sauce. 

GREEN-GAGE  PUDDING 

Butter  well  a  quart  granite-ware  b'asin.  Arrange  on  the 
bottom  a  layer  of  green-gage  plums  (California  canned 
plums) ,  then  fill  the  dish  heaping  full  of  the  crumb  of  stale 
bread  cut  into  dice.  Beat  two  eggs  enough  to  break  them,  and 
mix  them  with  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Pour  the  egg  and  milk 
mixture  slowly  over  the  bread  with  a  spoon,  so  the  bread  will 
soak  up  the  liquid.  Set  the  pudding-dish  in  a  pan  of  water 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Let  it  stand 
a  few  minutes,  then  invert  it  on  a  dish  and  do  not  lift  it 
off  the  tin  for  a  few  minutes  longer.  Serve  with  a  sauce 
made  of  a  cupful  of  juice  from  the  can,  with  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  sugar  added  to  it  and  then  boiled  until 
clear. 

TAPIOCA  PUDDING  WITH  PRUNES 

Soak  three  tablespoonfuls  of  tapioca  in  cold  water  for 
two  hours.  Use  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  water.  Stew 
dried  prunes  until  they  begin  to  swell.  Add  to  the  soaked 
tapioca  (there  should  be  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  it) 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  and 
two  cupfuls  of  milk  or  water.  Spread  a  layer  of  prunes  over 
the  bottom  of  a  quart  pudding-dish,  then  fill  the  dish  with 


138  LUNCHEONS 

the  tapioca  mixture  and  bake  it  twenty-five  to  thirty-five 
minutes  in  a  slow  oven. 

SAUTED  BANANAS 

Select  bananas  that  are  not  quite  ripe.  Peel  and  cut  them 
in  two  lengthwise.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saute- 
pan ;  when  it  bubbles  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  lay 
in  the  bananas.  When  the  bananas  are  tender  take  them 
out  carefully  and  lay  them  in  an  even  row  on  a  hot  dish. 
Add  half  a  cupful  of  cream  to  the  pan  and  mix  it  well 
with  the  butter  and  sugar.  The  sugar  should  be  cooked 
enough  to  give  a  caramel  flavor.  Add  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sherry,  or  just  enough  to  take  away  the  very 
sweet  taste.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  bananas. 

BAKED  BANANAS,  No.  1 

Select  bananas  that  are  not  quite  ripe,  detach  the  skins. 
Bake  the  bananas  in  the  skins  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes, 
or  until  tender  but  not  soft.  Turn  them  out  of  the  skins, 
lay  them  in  an  even  row  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  them 
some  melted  currant  jelly. 

BAKED  BANANAS,  No.  2 

Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  and  place 
it  on  the  fire  to  melt  the  butter.  Peel  bananas  and  lay 
them  uncut  in  a  baking-pan ;  pour  over  them  the  buttered 
mixture  and  bake  them  until  tender,  basting  them  fre- 
quently. Place  them  in  an  even  row  on  a  flat  dish  and 
pour  over  them  the  liquor  from  the  pan. 

BAKED  QUINCES 

Peel  and  core  the  quinces,  then  cut  them  in  halves  and 
bake  them  in  a  pan  with  a  very  little  water  until  tender. 


NO.   116.      GREEN-GAGE   PUDDINf 


NO.  117.     BAKED  QUINCES. 


NO.  118.      STEWED  APPLES,  NO.    1,   WITH  JAM  AND  ALMONDS. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS  139 

When  they  are  cooked,  spread  the  tops  with  butter  and  a 
plentiful  amount  of  sugar.  Serve  hot.  Pass  butter  and 
sugar. 

SOUFFLES 

Souffles  are  one  of  the  most  elegant  dessert  dishes.  They 
are  esteemed  for  their  delicacy  rather  than  their  richness, 
and  the  difficulty  in  making  them  gives  them  distinction, 
as  they  are  usually  presented  only  from  the  hand  of  an  ex- 
pert cook.  There  is  no  reason,  however,  that  any  one  should 
not  succeed  in  making  a  perfect  souffle,  though  it  is  one  of  the 
popular  delusions  that  they  are  very  difficult  to  make.  With 
intelligent  care  about  the  heat  of  the  oven,  a  souffle  can  be 
made  with  less  trouble  than  is  given  to  many  other  simple 
desserts.  The  whites  of  eggs  must  be  beaten  until  filled  with 
air.  They  are  then  placed  in  a  moderate  oven,  where  the 
heated  air  expands  and  puffs  up  the  whole  mass.  The  bak- 
ing is  continued  until  the  air-cells  are  enough  hardened  to 
support  the  weight,  and  the  dish  must  be  served  at  once  and 
before  the  imprisoned  air  cools  and  the  mass  collapses. 

STEAWBEEEY  SOUFFLE 

Beat  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth  the  whites  of  as  many  eggs  as 
needed,  allowing  one  white  for  each  person  and  one  for  the 
dish,  then  fold  in  lightly  enough  strawberry  jam  to  sweeten 
it;  or  use  strawberry  pulp  and  sugar.  Turn  it  into  a  pud- 
ding-dish and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 
Serve  at  once.  The  souffle  must  go  directly  from  the  oven  to 
the  table. 

FEUIT  AND  OTHEE  SOUFFLES 

To  the  whipped  whites  of  eggs  may  b'e  added  half  the 
number  of  yolks  and  powdered  sugar  enough  to  sweeten,  or 
chocolate,  or  any  jam,  or  softened  jelly,  or  fruit  juice,  or 


140  LUNCHEONS 

the  pulp  of  any  fruit  with  the  juice  drained  off.  Fruit  must 
be  pressed  through  a  puree  sieve  to  make  the  pulp  fine  and 
soft. 

BURNING  PEACHES 

Place  California  canned  whole  peaches  and  the  juice  in  a 
deep  dish.  Just  before  serving  pour  over  them  some  brandy 
or  rum  and  light  it  with  a  taper. 

BURNING  CHERRIES 

Serve  California  white  cherries  in  the  same  way  as  directed 
above  for  peaches. 


COLD  DESSERTS 

APPLES   RICHELIEU 

Take  out  the  cores  of  well-flavored  apples  and  cut  them 
crosswise  into  halves.  Simmer  them  in  sugar  and  water  until 
tender.  Let  them  cool.  Lay  several  pieces  of  sliced  blanched 
almonds  straight,  at  regular  intervals,  upon  the  flat  sides  of 
the  apples.  Sprinkle  them  with  powdered  sugar  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  a  minute  to  brown  the  sugar.  Place  candied 
cherries  cut  in  halves  upon  the  apples  between  the  almonds. 
Just  before  serving  put  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  at  in- 
tervals on  a  flat  dish  and  place  the  cold  apples  upon  the 
cream ;  or  press  the  cream  through  a  pastry-bag  in  circles 
around  the  apples. 

STEWED  APPLES,  No.  1 

Select  apples  of  uniform  size  and  shape.  Remove  the  cores 
and  peel  them  carefully.  Put  them  into  hot  water  with  sugar 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS    141 

and  lemon  juice.  Cook  them  slowly  until  tender,  but  not  so 
long  that  they  lose  shape.  When  they  are  cold  fill  the  centers 
with  sweetened  and  flavored  boiled  rice  and  cover  them  with 
apricot  or  any  jam.  Sprinkle  them  with  blanched  almonds 
cut  in  strips. 

STEWED  APPLES,  No.  2 

Prepare  the  apples  as  for  No.  1.  Fill  the  centers  with 
well-flavored  apple  puree,  or  with  apple  jelly  mixed  with 
chopped  raisins.  Sprinkle  them  with  granulated  sugar  and 
stick  into  them  blanched  almonds  cut  into  strips  and  slightly 
browned. 

Serve  with  cream,  if  convenient. 

Apple  puree  and  apple  jelly  can  be  made  from  the  parings 
and  cores  of  the  apples.  Put  these  trimmings  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  little  water  and  cook  them  to  a  pulp.  Press  the  pulp 
through  a  sieve  for  the  puree,  or  strain  it  through  a  cloth 
for  the  juice.  Keturn  the  juice  to  the  fire,  let  it  boil  a  min- 
ute, then  add  half  a  pound  of  hot  sugar  to  a  cupful  of 
juice.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  boil  until  a  few 
drops  put  on  a  cold  plate  jelly.  Turn  it  into  glasses  to  set. 

BAKED  APPLES 

Peel  and  core  good-flavored,  tart  apples.  Put  a  small  piece 
of  butter  in  each  one  and  sprinkle  them  with  sugar  so  they 
will  brown  well.  Put  them  in  a  pan  with  a  little  water  and 
bake  until  tender,  then  remove  and  put  on  each  one  two  drops 
of  almond  extract.  Add  a  little  sugar  to  the  water  in  the  pan 
and  cook  it  down  to  a  thick  syrup,  then  strain  it  slowly  over 
the  apples  to  glaze  them ;  or  stick  three  cloves  into  each  apple 
before  baking  them,  and  omit  the  almond  extract;  or  fill 
the  centers  with  the  sugar,  lemon  peel,  and  stick  cinnamon 
before  baking,  or  with  blanched  almonds  and  raisins  after 
baking. 


142  LUNCHEONS 

COMPOTE  OF  FIGS 

Put  a  pound  of  pulled  figs  in  a  bowl  and  cover  them  with 
water.  Let  them  soak  for  several  hours,  or  until  they  are 
softened  and  expanded,  then  press  each  one  into  natural 
shape  and  pile  them  on  a  dish.  Take  the  water  in  which 
they  were  soaked,  add  enough  sugar  to  sweeten  it,  and  a 
thick  slice  of  lemon.  Boil  it  until  it  is  a  good  syrup,  then 
pour  it  over  the  figs.  Let  the  figs  cool  before  serving.  Or  to 
each  cupful  of  fig  water  add  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  boil  it 
to  the  crack,  then  pour  it  slowly  over  the  figs.  This  will 
give  them  a  coating  of  sugar.  Serve  with  whipped  cream 
flavored  with  kirsch. 

The  figs,  being  very  sweet,  are  improved  by  using  a  flavor- 
ing which  is  sharp  like  lemon  or  kirsch.  If  lemon  is  used, 
pour  the  juice  over  the  figs,  as  it  will  curdle  the  cream  if 
mixed  with  it. 


COMPOTE  OF  APRICOTS 

Prepare  dried  apricots  the  same  as  directed  for  compote  of 
pears.  Place  half  a  blanched  almond  in  the  center  of  each 
piece  to  imitate  a  pit. 


COMPOTE  OF  PEARS 

Soak  dried  California  pears  in  water  overnight,  or  for 
several  hours  until  they  swell  to  natural  shape.  Arrange 
them  symmetrically  on  a  dish,  or  around  a  form  of  rice, 
as  in  illustration.  To  the  water  in  which  the  pears  were 
soaked  add  enough  sugar  to  make  it  sweet,  and  boil  it  down 
to  a  syrup,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Pour 
the  hot  syrup  over  the  fruit.  Serve  cold. 


NO.  119.     COMPOTE  OF  FIGS. 


NO.   120.      COMPOTE  OF  APRICOTS. 


NO.   121.      COMPOTE  OF  PEARS. 


NO.  122.  BANANAS  AND  CREAM. 


NO.  123.   BREAD  AND  JAM  TAHTLETS. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  —  PIES  —  TARTS    143 

BANANAS  AND  CREAM 

Cut  bananas  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Ar- 
range them  in  a  pile  in  the  center  of  the  dish  and  place 
around  them  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream.  The  cream  may 
be  flavored  with  sherry  or  vanilla,  but  use  no  sugar,  as  the 
fruit  is  sweet  enough  without  it. 

STRAWBERRIES  AND  CREAM 

Mix  enough  sugar  with  cream  to  sweeten  it  thoroughly, 
and  then  whip  it  until  it  is  stiff  and  dry.  A  half  pint  of 
cream  is  enough  for  a  quart  of  berries.  When  ready  to 
serve,  mix  the  berries  in  the  cream  and  serve  them  piled  on  a 
flat  dish. 

PEACHES  AND  CREAM 

Cut  peeled  peaches  into  slices  and  put  them  in  the  ice- 
box. Add  as  much  sugar  to  a  half  pint  of  cream  as  will  be 
needed  to  sweeten  the  peaches.  Whip  the  cream  to  a  stiff 
froth.  At  the  moment  of  serving,  mix  together  lightly  the 
peaches  and  cream ;  or  an  hour  or  more  before  serving,  mix 
the  cream  and  fruit,  put  it  in  a  covered  mold,  and  pack  in 
ice  and  salt.  Use  but  little  salt,  for  the  object  is  to  make 
the  peaches  very  cold,  but  not  to  freeze  them. 

BREAD  AND  JAM  TARTLETS 

Cut  very  light  bread  into  slices  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Stamp  these  pieces  into  rounds  with  a  biscuit-cutter. 
Put  them  in  a  saute-pan  with  a  little  butter,  and  brown  them 
on  both  sides.  When  they  are  cool,  spread  them  with  any 
kind  of  jam  or  preserved  fruit,  and  just  before  serving 
ornament 'them  with  thick  cream  pressed  through  a  pastry- 
bag  and  star  tube. 


144  LUNCHEONS 

PIKE  CONES 

Cut  quarter-inch  slices  of  bread  into  rounds  and  moisten 
them  with  sherry  or  maraschino.  Pile  chopped  pineapple 
in  cone  shape  on  each  round  of  bread.  Canned,  fresh,  or 
stewed  pineapple  may  be  used.  Dilute  the  juice  strained 
from  the  fruit  with  a  little  water,  and  sweeten  it  to  taste. 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot  moistened  with  cold  water 
to  a  cupful  of  pineapple  liquor.  Boil  it  until  thickened, 
then  with  a  spoon  pour  it  slowly  over  the  cones.  Serve 
hot  or  cold. 

CORNSTARCH  PUDDINGS 

Dissolve  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch  in  a 
little  cold  water  or  milk  and  turn  it  slowly,  stirring  all  the 
time,  into  a  pint  of  scalding  milk  in  a  double  boiler;  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  dash  of  salt.  Stir  until 
it  is  thickened,  then  let  it  cook  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  it 
has  lost  the  raw  taste  of  the  starch,  then  add  the  whipped 
whites  of  two  eggs  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and 
cook  it  a  few  minutes  longer  to  set  the  eggs. 

No.  1.  The  cornstarch  is  molded  in  cups;  when  unmolded 
a  piece  is  taken  out  of  the  top  of  each  one,  and  the 
holes  are  filled  with  currant  jelly,  and  jelly  is  placed 
on  the  dish  around  the  individual  puddings.  This 
gives  a  good  sauce  as  well  as  a  nice  effect  of  color. 
Any  jelly,  jam,  or  preserved  fruits  may  be  used  in 
place  of  the  currant  jelly. 

No.  2.  Lay  a  line  of  seeded  raisins  on  the  bottom  of  a  ring- 
mold  before  turning  in  the  cornstarch;  or  mix  with 
the  cornstarch  some  chopped  citron,  currants,  and 
raisins.  Fill  the  center  of  the  ring  with  whipped 
cream,  or  with  plain  boiled  custard. 


NO.   124.      PISE  CONES. 


NO.   125.      INDIVIDUAL  CORNSTARCH  PUDDINGS  WITH  CURRANT  JELLY. 


NO.   126.      CORNSTARCH   PUDDING   IN  RING  MOLD,    ORNAMENTED  WITH  RAISINS. 
GARNISHED  WITH   WHIPPED  CREAM. 


NO.   127.      CORNSTABCH   PUDDING  ORNAMENTED  WITH  CANDIED 
CHERRIES  AND  ANGKLICA. 


NO.   128.      CHOCOLATE  CORNSTARCH   PUDDING. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS     145 

No.  3.  Mold  the  cornstarch  in  a  fowl.  Decorate  it  with 
candied  cherries  and  angelica.  Serve  with  it  cream, 
sweetened  milk,  custard,  or  preserved  fruit. 

No.  4.  Add  to  the  cornstarch  two  squares  of  melted  choco- 
late and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Decorate  the 
mold  with  split  blanched  almonds.  Dip  the  almonds 
in  a  little  half-set  gelatine  to  make  them  adhere  to 
the  mold.  Put  the  mold  into  hot  water  for  a  second 
to  soften  the  gelatine  before  unmolding  the  pudding. 
Serve  with  whipped  cream  or  sweetened  milk. 

PEACH  PUDDING 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pudding-dish  with  canned  peaches. 
Take  half  the  juice  from  the  can,  add  to  it  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar,  and  boil  it  to  a  thick  syrup. 

Make  a  custard,  using  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch.  Cook  in 
a  double  boiler  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  it  is  quite  thick 
and  the  raw  taste  of  the  cornstarch  is  gone,  then  add  a  little 
of  the  peach  syrup  to  sweeten  it,  and  a  few  drops  of  almond 
extract.  Sprinkle  the  peaches  with  blanched  almonds  cut 
in  pieces,  pour  over  them  the  syrup,  then  the  custard.  Cover 
the  top  with  meringue  made  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Brown  the  me- 
ringue. Serve  the  pudding  hot  or  cold. 

TAPIOCA  PUDDING 

1  quart  of  milk, 

^  cupful  of  tapioca, 

4-5  eggs, 

|  pint  of  cream, 

4-5  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 

|  cupful  of  sherry. 
10 


146  LUNCHEONS 

Soak  the  tapioca  in  cold  water  for  several  hours  or  over- 
night. Boil  the  soaked  tapioca  in  the  milk  until  it  is  soft, 
then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  sugar,  cream,  and 
wine,  and  lastly  the  whipped  whites  of  the  eggs. 

Turn  the  mixture  into  a  pudding-dish.  Set  the  dish  in  a 
pan  of  water  and  bake  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve 
cold. 

RICE  PRUNE  PUDDING 

Spread  stewed  prunes  over  the  bottom  of  a  basin  or  mold, 
then  fill  the  mold  with  boiled  rice.  Press  the  rice  in  just 
hard  enough  to  make  it  hold  its  shape.  Turn  it  out  of  the 
mold  and  serve  it  hot  or  cold,  with  the  sweetened  juice  of  the 
prunes  as  sauce ;  or  press  the  rice  into  a  bowl  or  mold,  and 
arrange  the  prunes  around  the  form  after.it  is  unmolded, 
as  in  illustration  No.  129 ;  or  arrange  it  as  in  illustration 
No.  130. 

JEILIED  APPLE  PUDDING 

Add  to  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  strained  stewed  apples 
the  juice  of  an  orange,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  three  quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  gela- 
tine which  has  been  soaked  for  an  hour  in  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water  and  then  dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  of  hot  water. 
Stir  the  mixture  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  fold  in  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  or  a  half- 
pint  of  whipped  cream.  Turn  it  into  a  mold. 

Serve  it  with  whipped  cream. 

PINEAPPLE  PUDDING 

Grate  a  pineapple  fine.  Mix  well  together  a  cupful  of 
sugar  and  four  eggs,  then  mix  them  with  the  pineapple 
pulp.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  mold,  set  the  mold  into  a  pan 
of  water  and  bake  it  slowly  until  stiffened  like  a  baked  cus- 


NO.   129.      RICE  PRUNE   PUDDING. 


NO.   130.      RICE  PRUNE    PUDDING. 


NO.   131.      SAVAKm 


NO.    132.      BABAS. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS    147 

tard.    When  cold  unmold  it  and  decorate  it  with  whipped 
cream. 

SAVAEINS 

Take  some  brioche  dough  (page  209)  and  add  enough  milk 
to  make  it  almost  soft  enough  to  drop  from  the  spoon.  Add 
sugar,  raisins,  chopped  citron,  and  a  little  lemon  juice. 
Work  all  well  together. 

Butter  some  earthen  cups,  sprinkle  them  with  sliced 
blanched  almonds,  half  fill  the  cups  with  the  savarin  dough, 
and  let  it  rise  to  double  in  size.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Turn  them  out  of  the  molds,  and  while  they  are  warm 
dip  them  in  a  syrup  made  of  one  cupful  of  sugar  syrup, 
three  tablespoonfuls  each  of  kirsch,  maraschino,  and  curagao, 
or  flavor  with  any  other  liqueurs  preferred.  When  the  sa- 
varins  are  well  soaked  place  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain. 

BAB  AS 

Take  brioche  dough  prepared  as  for  savarins,  and  mix 
with  it  candied  fruits  cut  into  small  dice.  Butter  baba- 
molds,  fill  them  half  full  of  the  mixture,  let  them  rise  to 
double  in  size,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Soak  the  babas  in  sugar  syrup  flavored  with  rum  and 
drain.  Place  a  candied  cherry  on  each  one. 

Baba-molds  are  like  large  individual  timbale  cups. 

COFFEE  MOUSSE 

^  ounce  gelatine, 

£  cupful  of  cold  water, 

|  cupful  of  hot  water, 

1  cupful  of  coffee, 

J  cupful  of  sugar, 

1  cupful  of  cream,  whipped. 


148  LUNCHEONS 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  an  hour,  then  dis- 
solve it  in  the  hot  water  and  add  the  sugar.  When  the  sugar 
is  dissolved  add  a  cupful  of  cold,  strong,  clear  coffee.  Put 
the  mixture  on  ice  and  whip  it  until  it  becomes  light  and 
frothy  and  has  begun  to  stiffen,  then  add  the  whipped  cream 
and  turn  it  into  a  mold.  The  gelatine  must  be  thoroughly 
whipped,  as  for  snow  pudding,  and  the  liquid  drained  from 
the  whipped  cream  must  not  go  in.  This  will  make  about 
one  and  one  half  quarts  of  mousse. 

PEACH  MOUSSE 

Use  fresh  or  canned  peaches.  Mash  and  rub  them  through 
a  colander.  Add  to  a  cupful  of  peach  pulp  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  lemon  juice,  a  few  drops  of  almond  extract,  and 
enough  sugar  to  sweeten  it.  Dissolve  in  quarter  of  a  cupful 
of  hot  peach  juice  one  and  three  quarter  tablespoonfuls  of 
granulated  gelatine  which  has  been  soaked  for  an  hour  in 
half  a  cupful  of  cold  water.  Add  the  gelatine  to  the  peach 
mixture.  When  it  begins  to  set,  mix  it  until  smooth,  then 
fold  in  a  half  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
turn  it  into  a  mold.  Serve  with  whipped  cream.  The  cream 
can  be  used  to  decorate  the  dish  by  pressing  it  through  a 
pastry-bag. 

CHESTNUT  PUREE 

Boil  for  five  minutes  a  pound  of  French  chestnuts,  drain 
off  the  water  and  remove  the  shells  and  skins.  Return  the 
chestnuts  to  the  fire  and  boil  them  until  tender.  Put  the 
boiled  chestnuts  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  them  to  a  paste, 
then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  Make  a  thick  sugar  syrup,  and  beat  it  into  the  paste, 
using  enough  to  sweeten  to  taste.  Grease  a  ring-mold  with 
oil,  and  put  into  it  a  lining  half  an  inch  thick  of  the 


NO.   133.      PEACH  MOUSSE   GARNISHED  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM. 


NO.   134.      CHESTNUT  PUREE. 


NO.   135.      CHESTNUT   BAVARIAN. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  —  PIES  —  TARTS    149 

chestnut  paste  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag  with  a  tube 
of  small  opening  so  it  will  come  out  vermicelli-like  in  form. 
Fill  the  rest  of  the  mold  with  plain  paste.  Turn  it  on  to 
a  layer  of  sponge-cake.  Just  before  serving  fill  the  center 
of  the  ring  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  almond. 

CHESTNUT  BAVARIAN 

Prepare  chestnuts  as  directed  for  chestnut  puree.  To  two 
cupfuls  of  the  puree  add  one  ounce  of  gelatine  which  has 
been  soaked  for  an  hour  in  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water  and 
then  dissolved  in  half  a  cupful  of  hot  water.  Mix  well,  and 
when  it  begins  to  stiffen  add  a  pint  of  cream  whipped  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  ring-mold  to  harden. 
Fill  the  center  with  whipped  cream,  or  with  chestnuts  boiled 
in  sugar  and  water  until  they  look  clear. 

CHARLOTTE  RUSSE 

1  pint  of  milk, 
1  pint  of  cream, 

Yolks  of  four  eggs, 
•J  cupful  of  sugar, 
^  boxful  of  gelatine, 
1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  the  sugar  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Scald  the  milk 
and  pour  it  over  them.  Place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  the 
eggs  are  cooked,  but  not  thickened  like  a  custard,  then  add 
the  gelatine,  which  has  been  soaked  for  an  hour  in  half  a 
cupful  of  cold  water.  When  the  gelatine  is  dissolved  remove 
it  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  let  it  get  cold.  When 
the  mixture  begins  to  thicken  add  the  cream  whipped  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  turn  it  into  a  mold  lined  with  lady-fingers 
or  with  slices  of  sponge-cake. 


150  LUNCHEONS 

STRAWBERRY   CHARLOTTE  RUSSE,  No.  1 

£  box  of  gelatine, 

|  cupful  of  cold  water, 
1£  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
1£  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice, 
1    quart  of  berries,  crushed  and  pressed 
through  a  puree  sieve, 

£  pint  of  cream,  whipped. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  for  an  hour,  then  set  it  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water  to  dissolve.  Add  to  the  crushed  berries 
the  powdered  sugar,  lemon  juice,  and  gelatine.  Put  it  aside 
for  a  while.  When  it  begins  to  stiffen,  beat  it  until  it  is  light 
and  spongy,  then  mix  in  the  whipped  cream,  being  careful 
not  to  pour  in  any  of  the  liquid  cream  that  may  have  drained 
to  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  charlotte- 
mold  lined  with  lady-fingers.  When  it  is  unmolded  garnish 
it  with  whole  strawberries. 

STRAWBERRY   CHARLOTTE   RUSSE,  No.  2 

Line  a  china  or  earthen  bowl  or  mold  with  strawberries 
cut  in  halves,  and  with  the  flat  side  of  the  berries  placed  close 
together  against  the  mold.  Arrange  one  or  two  rows  at  a 
time,  and  then  turn  in  the  mixture  to  keep  them  in  place. 
Fill  the  mold  with  the  same  mixture  used  in  No.  1 ;  or  fill  the 
mold  with  plain  charlotte-russe  filling,  or  with  Bavarian 
cream. 

HOW  TO  MAKE   MERINGUES 

Put  a  dash  of  salt  into  the  whites  of  five  or  six  eggs  and 
whip  them  until  very  stiff  and  dry,  then  add  slowly  a  quar- 
ter of  a  cupful  of  sifted  powdered  sugar  for  each  egg.  The 
sugar  should  be  placed,  a  little  at  a  time,  at  the  end  of  the 
platter,  and  gradually  whipped  in.  Continue  to  whip  until 


NO.    136.      STRAWBERRY  CHARLOTTE  RUSSE  GARNISHED   WITH  STRAWBERRIES. 


NO.   137.      STRAWBERRY  CHARLOTTE  RUSSE. 


NO.  138.      MERINGUE  RING  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  —  PIES  —  TARTS    151 

the  mixture  is  firm  enough  to  stand  without  spreading,  and 
any  little  point  left  by  the  beater  remains  erect.  Success 
depends  on  the  eggs  being  sufficiently  beaten. 

The  mixture  can  be  made  into  various  shapes  with  a  spoon, 
but  is  better  molded  by  being  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag. 
The  tops  can  be  smoothed  and  any  irregularities  effaced  with 
a  clean  wet  knife.  The  shapes  should  be  arranged  on  paper 
placed  on  inverted  baking-tins,  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven 
to  form  a  thin  crust,  and  to  color  lightly  the  tops,  and  then 
placed  on  the  hot  shelf  of  the  range  to  dry.  If  the  meringues 
stick  to  the  paper,  they  can  be  easily  removed  by  wetting 
the  paper  slightly. 

MERINGUE   RING 

Place  meringue  mixture  (see  above)  in  a  pastry-bag  with 
star-tube.  Draw  on  heavy  paper  two  rings  four  to  six  inches 
in  diameter,  according  to  size  desired.  Any  round  utensil 
of  right  size  can  be  used  for  guide.  Press  the  meringue 
through  the  tube,  following  the  circles  marked  on  the  paper. 
One  of  the  rings — the  top  one — should  be  made  more  orna- 
mental than  the  other.  This  is  easily  done  by  moving  the 
tube  while  the  mixture  is  passing  through  it.  With  a  wet 
knife  make  a  narrow,  smooth,  flat  surface  on  the  top  of  the 
under  ring.  Lay  the  papers  holding  the  rings  on  inverted 
baking-tins,  and  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  a  few  min- 
utes to  color  them  and  form  a  crust.  Watch  carefully  that 
they  do  not  get  too  brown.  When  lightly  colored,  remove 
them  to  the  hot  shelf  to  dry.  When  they  are  sufficiently  firm 
take  them  carefully  off  the  paper,  turn  them  over,  break 
in  the  bottoms,  then  return  them  to  the  shelf  to  continue  the 
drying.  Place  one  ring  on  top  of  the  other,  and  just  before 
serving  fill  the  center  with  whipped  cream. 

Meringues  may  be  kept  for  some  time,  but  in  that  case 
should  be  freshened  by  heating  before  being  used. 


152  LUNCHEONS 

If  preferred,  the  upper  piece  can  be  made  into  a  cover  as  in 
illustration  No.  139. 


MERINGUE   CREAM  TART,  No.  1 

Make  meringues  (see  page  150)  of  oblong  shape,  three 
inches  long  and  two  inches  wide.  After  the  tops  are  firm, 
break  in  the  bottoms  in  order  to  dry  the  insides. 

Trim  the  edges  of  a  round  layer  of  sponge-cake,  spread 
it  with  jam  of  any  kind,  arrange  the  meringues  around  it, 
and  at  the  moment  of  serving  fill  the  center  of  the  tart  with 
whipped  cream.  Flavor  the  cream,  if  desired.  It  will  take 
a  dozen  meringues  to  make  the  crown. 

Arrange  the  crown  as  follows :  Put  half  a  cupful  of  sugar 
and  a  quarter  cupful  of  hot  water  into  a  saucepan  and  stir 
until  the  sugar  dissolves,  then  let  it  cook,  without  stirring, 
until  a  little  dropped  into  cold  water  is  brittle;  it  is  then 
boiled  to  the  crack.  Draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
range,  so  the  sugar  will  be  kept  hot  without  cooking  any  more. 

Dip  the  end  of  a  meringue  into  the  sugar  and  place  it  on 
the  cake;  hold  it  in  place  wThile  you  dip  a  second  meringue 
and  place  it  under  the  first  one.  Proceed  in  this  way  until 
all  are  placed,  then  put  a  drop  of  the  boiled  sugar  on  the  top 
of  each  one  where  it  touches  the  next  one.  The  whole  will 
then  be  held  firmly  in  place. 


MERINGUE   CREAM  TART,  No.  2 

Make  meringue  mixture  into  small  kisses,  leaving  the  point 
left  by  the  tube  erect. 

Spread  a  layer  of  cake  with  jam  as  in  No.  1.  Stick  a 
candied  cherry  on  the  point  of  each  kiss  and  arrange  them  as 
shown  in  illustration.  Fill  the  center  with  whipped  cream. 


NO.  139.      MERINGUE  CROWN. 


NO.   HO.      MERINGUE   CREAM  TART,   NO.   1. 


NO.   141.      MERINGUE   CREAM   TART,   NO.   2. 


NO.    142.     MERINGUES  FILLED   WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  OR  WITH   ICE   CREAM. 


No.    143.      BAVARIAN  CREAM   GARNISHED  WITH  CREAM  CAKES. 


NO.   144.      TART  OF  Fl  FF-I'Af-TE    WITH   STRAWBERRY  JAM. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSEETS  — PIES  — TARTS    153 

MERINGUES  FILLED  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  OR 
WITH  ICE  CREAM 

Make  oblong-shaped  meringues,  as  for  cream  tart  No.  1. 
Just  before  serving,  fill  them  with  whipped  cream,  or  with 
ice  cream,  and  press  two  together.  If  necessary,  use  a  little 
white  of  egg  on  the  edges  to  make  them  adhere. 

CHOCOLATE   CREAM 

Scald  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Melt  on  a  dry  pan  two  squares 
of  unsweetened  chocolate,  add  the  hot  milk  slowly  to  the 
chocolate,  stirring  all  the  time.  Let  it  come  to  the  boiling- 
point.  Beat  two  whole  eggs  and  two  yolks  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  stir  the  milk  and  chocolate  into  the  eggs, 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  a  dash  of  salt.  Turn 
the  mixture  into  a  mold,  set  it  into  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and 
cook  in  a  slow  oven  until  it  is  firm.  In  order  to  have  it 
smooth  and  solid  it  must  bake  slowly.  Test  it  by  running 
in  the  point  of  a  knife;  if  it  is  not  cooked,  it  will  coat  the 
knife  with  milk. 

Unmold  when  cold  and  serve  with  whipped  cream. 

CHOCOLATE  SPONGE 

Make  the  same  mixture  as  for  chocolate  cream.  Instead 
of  cooking  it  slowly,  put  it  into  a  hot  oven  and  cook  it  until 
the  whey  appears.  By  cooking  in  a  hot  oven  it  will  be  full 
of  holes  and  have  a  sponge-like  appearance.  When  cold, 
unmold  it  and  let  the  whey  escape.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream. 

BAVARIAN  CREAM   GARNISHED  WITH  CREAM-CAKES 

Make  a  Bavarian  cream  (see  "Century  Cook  Book,"  page 
400),  and  turn  it  into  a  flat  tin  to  harden.  Have  it  about 
half  an  inch  thick.  When  it  is  set,  cut  it  into  pieces  two  and 


154  LUNCHEONS 

a  half  to  three  inches  square,  and  arrange  them,  overlapping, 
in  the  center  of  a  dish.  Place  around  them  small  cream- 
cakes  of  one  inch  in  diameter. 

Cornstarch  pudding,  jelly,  or  any  mixture  firm  enough 
to  be  sliced  can  be  served  in  this  way.  Left-over  jelly  can 
be  melted  and  molded  again  in  a  layer,  or  it  may  be  com- 
bined with  custard,  cream,  crumbed  cake,  or  anything  suit- 
able that  may  be  at  hand,  and  turned  into  a  layer-tin  to 
stiffen ;  then  cut  and  serve  as  above.  Any  small  cakes  or 
sliced  cake  cut  into  rounds  may  be  substituted  for  the  cream- 
cakes. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  garnished  with  small  cakes  covered 
with  white  icing  makes  a  good  combination. 


PIES  AND  TARTS 

PUFF-PASTE 

Puff-paste  is  made  of  equal  weights  of  butter  and  flour. 
The  flour  is  made  into  a  paste,  the  butter  is  worked  until 
it  is  flexible,  and  they  are  then  rolled  together  and  folded 
several  times  so  that  many  distinct  layers  of  butter  and 
paste  are  obtained.  During  the  rolling  air  is  imprisoned, 
arid  in  baking  the  air-cells  expand,  separate  the  layers,  and 
so  inflate  the  pastry. 

In  order  to  effect  this  result,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the 
pastry  dry  and  cold,  and  the  butter  cold,  so  that  they  will 
not  mix  in  rolling,  but  be  pressed  into  thin  sheets.  Careful 
handling  is  necessary.  Many  failures  are  the  result  of  press- 
ing the  paste  in  spots  with  the  fingers,  which  prevents  its 
rising  evenly,  if  at  all.  A  marble  slab  is  desirable  for  rolling 
the  paste  on,  as  it  helps  to  keep  it  cold. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS  — PIES  — TARTS    155 

Either  of  the  following  mixtures  may  be  used : 
No.  1.  1  pound  of  butter, 

1  pound  of  flour  (pastry  flour  preferred) , 

About  1  cupful  of  cold  water. 
No.  2.  1  pound  of  butter, 
1  cupful  of  flour, 
1  cupful  of  water, 

White  of  one  egg, 

Cut  one  sixth  of  the  butter  into  the  flour  for  the  paste. 

No  salt  is  needed  if  salted  butter  is  used. 

Put  the  flour  on  the  slab,  chop  into  it,  using  a  knife,  one 
sixth  of  the  butter,  then  moisten  it  with  the  water  into  which 
has  been  stirred  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg.  The  exact 
amount  of  water  cannot  be  given,  as  that  depends  upon  the 
dryness  of  the  flour,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the 
paste  of  the  right  consistency.  It  should  be  neither  too  hard 
to  roll  easily,  nor  so  soft  that  it  will  stick,  but  have  a  flex- 
ible, dry  consistency.  Work  it  for  a  few  minutes  with  the 
hands  to  a  perfect  smoothness.  Roll  it  to  a  rectangular 
shape  (a  little  longer  than  broad),  and  about  a  half  inch 
in  thickness.  The  paste  can  be  handled  with  impunity  at 
this  stage,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  roll  it  to  an  even  thick- 
ness and  to  have  the  edges  straight  and  the  corners  square. 
When  just  right,  fold  it  over,  wrap  it  in  a  napkin,  put  it  in  a 
pan,  and  place  the  pan  upon  ice. 

Work  the  butter  with  a  spoon  or  a  pat  until  it  is  smooth 
and  flexible,  and  press  out  as  much  of  the  water  it  contains 
as  possible,  as  this  wets  the  paste  and  may  make  it  sticky. 
Mold  the  butter  into  a  smooth,  flattened  square  cake  and  set 
it  on  ice. 

When  the  paste  and  the  butter  are  perfectly  cold  lay  the 
paste  on  the  slab,  place  the  cake  of  butter  in  the  center,  and 
fold  the  paste  over  it,  first  on  the  sides,  and  then  the  ends. 


156  LUNCHEONS 

The  paste  should  be  long  enough  to  fold  the  end  pieces  en- 
tirely across  the  cake  of  butter.  Roll  it  out  into  a  strip  three 
times  longer  than  broad.  Rolling  is  made  easier  by  lightly 
pounding  as  well  as  rolling  the  paste.  Keep  the  edges  even, 
and  finish  by  having  the  corners  square  and  the  whole  of 
uniform  thickness.  Fold  the  strip  twice,  making  three  even 
layers,  and  place  it  on  the  ice  again,  wrapped  in  a  napkin, 
to  prevent  it  from  gathering  moisture.  When  it  is  entirely 
cold,  roll  it  out  again  and  fold  it  in  the  same  way.  Strike 
the  edges  to  keep  the  folds  from  separating,  and  turn  the 
paste  so  as  to  roll  it  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the  pre- 
vious time.  Endeavor  to  keep  the  edges  straight  and  cor- 
ners square,  so  the  layers  will  be  even.  After  each  folding 
and  rolling,  it  is  said  to  have  one  "turn,"  and  the  pastry 
is  not  finished  until  it  has  had  six  to  eight  turns.  The  rolling 
becomes  more  difficult  as  the  layers  get  thinner,  and  great 
care  must  be  used  not  to  let  the  butter  break  through.  This 
Avill  happen  if  it  is  not  kept  very  cold ;  so,  unless  the  rolling 
is  done  in  a  very  cold  room,  it  is  safer  to  put  it  on  the  ice 
after  each  turn.  If  the  butter  shows  signs  of  coming 
through,  cover  the  spot  with  flour,  and  set  it  away  at  once. 

The  paste  should  also  be  very  cold  when  cut  into  shapes,  so 
that  the  edges  will  not  stick  together ;  and  again,  it  should  be 
very  cold  before  being  put  into  the  oven. 

The  oven  should  be  hot.  A  simple  test  of  the  heat  is 
to  place  a  piece  of  writing-paper  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes. 
If  at  the  end  of  that  time  the  paper  is  a  light  yellow,  the  heat 
is  right  for  vol-au-vent  and  large  pieces.  If  it  is  a  light- 
brown  color,  it  is  about  the  heat  used  for  Baking  bread,  and  is 
right  for  patty-shells. 

After  a  little  practice  the  making  of  puff-paste  becomes 
an  easy  matter.  The  rolling  need  not  be  done  all  in  one  day, 
for  if  the  paste  is  kept  dry  and  cold,  and  not  allowed  to  form 
a  crust,  it  will  keep  for  several  days.  So  many  high-class 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSEETS  —  PIES  —  TARTS    157 

dishes  can  be  made  of  puff-paste,  it  is  desirable  to  accom- 
plish the  art  of  making  it. 


JAM  TAET 

Tart  cases  may  be  prepared  the  same  as  vol-au-vent  cases, 
page  71,  except  that  the  paste  should  be  rolled  not  more  than 
half  an  inch  thick  when  ready  to  be  cut ;  or,  instead  of  cutting 
the  border  in  the  paste,  as  for  vol-au-vents,  a  strip  of  paste 
one  inch  wide  may  be  laid  around  the  edge.  The  strips 
should  be  cut  diagonally  on  the  ends,  and  these  edges  mois- 
tened so  they  will  stick  together  where  joined.  Lay  the 
strip  carefully  around  the  slightly  moistened  border  of  the 
bottom  piece,  paint  the  top  with  egg,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
for  thirty  minutes.  Kemove  carefully  the  top  of  the  center, 
and  take  out  any  uncooked  paste,  return  it  to  the  oven  to 
dry  the  inside. 

Before  using,  heat  the  tart  again  to  make  it  crisp,  and 
when  cool  spread  the  inside  with  a  layer  of  any  kind  of  jam 
or  preserved  fruit,  put  on  the  center  piece,  which  was  taken 
off  to  get  out  the  uncooked  paste,  and  cover  the  entire  center 
with  jam.  Serve  it  on  a  lace  paper. 

TARTLET  SHELLS 

Use  puff-paste  trimmings.  Roll  the  paste  thin,  shape  it 
to  the  pans,  being  careful  to  press  the  paste  as  little  as  pos- 
sible. Trim  the  edges  with  a  sharp  knife.  Put  a  piece  of 
paper  in  the  bottom  of  each  one,  and  fill  the  tartlet  cases  with 
dried  peas,  beans,  or  rice,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  ten  to 
fifteen  minutes.  When  well  browned,  remove  the  filling, 
being  particularly  careful,  if  rice  is  used,  that  every  grain 
is  picked  off  the  crusts.  Return  the  shells  to  the  oven  for  a 
minute  to  dry  the  insides. 


158  LUNCHEONS 

These  shells  can  be  kept  for  some  time,  but  should  be 
freshened  before  using  by  being  heated  again.  Fill  them, 
just  before  serving,  with  any  kind  of  jam  or  preserve,  or  with 
any  freshly  stewed  fruits,  or  with  creamed  minced  meat. 

STRAWBERRY  TARTLETS 

Use  tartlet  shells  made  of  any  good  pastry,  puff-paste  trim- 
mings preferred.  Just  before  serving,  freshen  the  shells 
by  heating  them,  if  they  have  been  kept  some  time,  and  fill 
with  stewed  fresh  strawberries.  Serve  the  juice  separately 
in  a  sauce-dish. 

To  prepare  the  strawberries,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  and 
cover  them  with  enough  sugar  to  sweeten  them.  Let  them 
stand  in  a  warm  place  until  the  juice  moistens  the  sugar. 
Cook  them  slowly  until  the  berries  are  softened,  but  not  so 
long  that  they  lose  their  shape. 

FRANGIPANE   TARTLETS 

Line  patty-pans  with  puff-paste  rolled  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick.  Cut  the  paste  an  inch  larger  than  the  pans,  and 
fit  it  as  carefully  as  possible,  pressing  it  lightly  with  the 
broad  finger  into  the  flutings.  Prick  the  bottom  crust  and 
lay  011  it  a  slice  of  bread  cut  to  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  This  is  to  prevent  the  bottom  crust  from  rising  and  to 
leave  the  sides  to  puff,  as  the  light  pastry  is  an  important 
part  of  these  tartlets.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  about  fifteen  min- 
utes. When  done  remove  any  uncooked  paste  and  fill  with 
frangipane  cream.  Cover  the  whole  top  with  meringue, 
piling  it  high  in  the  center,  and  smooth  it  with  a  wet  knife. 
Make  a  border  one  half  an  inch  wide  of  chopped  almonds 
which  have  been  blanched  and  browned.  Place  in  the  center 
a  half  cherry  and  two  pieces  of  angelica  to  imitate  a  flower. 


NO.  145.      STRAWBERKY  TARTLETS. 


XO.   146.      FRAXGIPAXE  TARTLETS. 


XO.   147.     JALOUSIES. 


HOT  DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS— PIES— TARTS     159 

FRANGIPANE   CREAM 

£  cupful  of  cream, 

1  tablespoonful  of  flour, 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 

1  tablespoonful  of  sherry, 

1  tablespoonful  of  brandy, 

1  teaspoonful  of  orange-flower  water, 

1  grated  lemon  rind, 

1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  citron, 

4  egg  yolks. 

Put  the  cream  and  flour  in  a  small  saucepan  and  stir  until 
smooth,  place  on  the  fire  a  few  minutes  to  cook  the  flour,  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  a 
little  cooled  add  all  the  other  ingredients.  Set  the  saucepan 
in  a  second  saucepan  containing  hot  water  and  cook,  stirring 
all  the  time,  until  the  mixture  has  become  a  thick  cream. 

FRUIT   TARTLETS 

Prepare  tartlet  shells  as  for  frangipane  tartlets.  Half  fill 
the  shells  with  frangipane  cream,  cover  each  one  with  half 
a  California  canned  peach  or  apricot,  and  decorate  around 
the  outside  of  the  fruit  with  meringue  pressed  through  a 
pastry-bag. 

JALOUSIES 

Roll  puff-paste  trimmings  into  a  sheet  one  eighth  of  an 
inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  strips  three  inches  wide.  Lay  half 
of  the  strips  on  a  baking-sheet  and  spread  them  with  a  layer 
of  well-seasoned  and  quite  dry  apple  sauce.  Cover  them  with 
the  remaining  strips,  which  have  been  slashed  into  triangular 
openings  by  being  folded  over  and  cut  on  the  folded  side 
an  inch  deep  in  diagonal  lines.  Egg  the  tops  and  bake  in  a 


160  LUNCHEONS 

hot  oven.  When  done,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  return  them 
to  the  oven  for  a  minute  to  glaze.  Cut  the  strips  after  they 
are  baked  into  pieces  three  inches  long. 

CRANBERRY  FIE 

Add  to  half  a  cupful  of  hot  water  a  cupful  of  sugar  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch  diluted  with  a  little  water. 
Stir  until  the  water  boils,  then  add  half  a  cupful  of  mo- 
lasses, half  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  pint  of  chopped  cranberries.  Cook  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  turn  it  into  the  pastry  and  bake  with  or  with- 
out an  upper  crust. 

COCOANUT  PIE 

Grate  a  cocoanut.  Mix  it  with  an  equal  weight  of  sugar 
and  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs.  Mix  together  and  scald 
a  cupful  of  milk  and  the  milk  of  the  cocoanut.  Add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cornstarch  diluted  with  a  little  water,  and  stir 
it  until  it  is  a  little  thickened.  Remove  it  from  the  fire,  add 
the  cocoanut  mixture,  and  lastly  the  whipped  whites  of  four 
eggs.  Turn  it  into  a  deep  pie-paste  and  bake  very  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  or  until  firm  to  the  touch.  Serve  cold. 

The  cocoanut  filling  should  be  one  and  a  half  or  one  and 
three  quarter  inches  thick.  A  kitchen  basin  may  be  used 
for  the  baking-dish,  or  the  crust  can  be  built  up  around  a 
pie-dish  to  make  it  deeper. 

CURRANT  PIE 

Add  to  a  cupful  of  mashed  currants  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  if  there  is 
much  juice  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Bake  with  an  under- 
crust  only,  and  cover  the  top  with  meringue. 


NO.  148.     COCOANUT  PIE. 


NO.   149.      HUCKLKBERRY  PIE. 


NO.   150.      STRAWBERRY  CAKE. 


HOT  DESSERTS -COLD  DESSERTS— PIES  — TARTS    161 

LEMON  FIE,  No.  1 

3  eggs, 

2  cupfuls  of  milk, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  scant, 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter, 

5  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  or  to  taste, 

Juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  and  a  half  lemons. 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the  white  of  one 
egg,  then  add,  in  the  following  order,  the  sugar,  the  flour,  the 
butter,  and  the  milk.  Lastly,  add  very  slowly  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  lemon.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  pie-dish 
lined  with  a  bottom  crust  and  bake  it  slowly  until  it  is  set 
like  a  custard.  Do  not  let  it  cook  too  long,  or,  like  custard, 
it  will  become  watery. 

Make  a  meringue  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Beat  them  to 
a  stiff  froth,  then  add  slowly  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Spread  the  meringue  roughly  over  the  pie  when  it  is  taken 
from  the  oven,  and  return  it  to  the  oven  for  a  minute  to 
color  the  meringue.  The  top  may  be  made  more  ornamental 
by  pressing  the  meringue  through  a  pastry-bag  on  to  the  pie. 


LEMON  PIE,  No.  2 

Put  into  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  one 
cupful  of  water.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  add 
two  cupfuls  of  grated  crumb  of  bread  and  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  two  lemons.  Stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth, 
then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  remove  it  from 
the  fire.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  baked  under-crust,  and 
bake  the  pie  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Cover  the  top  with  meringue  made  of  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar. 


162  LUNCHEONS 

STRAWBERRY  CAKES 

Make  two  layers  of  sponge-cake,  trim  the  edges,  cover  them 
with  well-selected  strawberries  set  close  together,  sprinkle 
with  sugar,  and  place  one  layer  on  the  other.  Pass  cream 
in  a  pitcher. 

Prepare  the  cake  as  in  No.  1,  but  cover  the  top  with  whip- 
ped cream  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag. 

Use  a  single  layer  of  cake,  cover  it  with  meringue,  then 
with  strawberries  placed  close  together,  and  decorate  with 
meringue  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag  with  star-tube,  mak- 
ing a  border,  or  a  border  by  placing  stars  between  the  berries. 

For  the  meringue  use  the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Flavor  it  with  a  few  drops  of  va- 
nilla. Prepare  the  cake  just  before  serving  it. 

CURRANT   SHORTCAKE 

This  shortcake  will  be  liked  as  well  as,  if  not  better  than, 
one  made  of  strawberries.  The  latter  has  an  established 
reputation,  which  is  based  largely  upon  its  attractive  appear- 
ance, but,  as  a  rule,  it  is  disappointing  to  the  taste.  Short- 
cake can  be  made  quite  as  inviting  with  currants  as  with 
strawberries,  and  the  tartness  of  the  fruit  gives  it  a  flavor 
which  is  especially  grateful  in  hot  weather,  when  currants 
are  in  season. 

Receipt  for  one  currant  shortcake  which  is  enough  to  serve 
to  six  persons : 

Make  a  biscuit  dough  as  follows:  Sift  together  twice  two 
cupfuls  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-pow- 
der, and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  (they  must  be  thoroughly 
mixed) .  When  this  is  done,  rub  in  one  rounded  teaspoonful 
of  butter  or  lard  or  cottolene,  then  add  enough  milk  to  make 
a  soft  dough.  Use  a  fork  to  stir  in  the  milk.  Mix  it  lightly 
and  quickly  together,  making  the  paste  a  little  too  soft  to 


NO.  151.      STRAWBERRY-CAKE   WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM. 


NO.   152.      STRAWBKRRY-CAKE   WITH   MERINGUE. 


NO.   153.      STRAWBERRY-CAKE   WITH    MERINGUE. 


NO.   154.      CURRANT-SHORTCAKE. 


r      * 


NO.   15">.      CUKRAVr-SHORTCAKi;   CUT. 


HOT   DESSERTS  — COLD  DESSERTS— PIES— TAETS    163 

roll.  Turn  it  into  a  well-greased  pie-tin,  smooth  the  top  with 
a  wet  knife,  and  put  it  at  once  into  a  hot  oven  to  bake  for 
thirty  minutes.  When  it  is  taken  from  the  oven  trim  the 
edges  and  split  the  biscuit  in  two,  using  two  forks  so  as  to 
tear,  not  cut,  it  apart.  Spread  each  half  with  butter  while 
it  is  still  hot. 

Stem  a  box  of  currants.  Reserve  a  few  of  the  finest  ones 
to  decorate  the  top  of  the  shortcake.  Put  the  rest  of  the 
currants  into  a  bowl  and  mash  them,  add  enough  sugar  to 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  let  them  stand  an  hour  or  more  before 
using  them. 

Spread  the  mashed  currants  over  one  half  of  the  buttered 
biscuit,  lay  the  other  half  on  it.  Cover  the  top  with  me- 
ringue made  of  the  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs  sweetened 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Decorate  with 
whole  currants  as  shown  in  illustration. 

It  can  be  more  elaborately  decorated  by  pressing  the 
meringue  through  a  pastry-bag  and  tube  into  ornamental 
shapes,  and  placing  currants  on  it  as  the  fancy  dictates. 

Serve  very  fresh. 


CHAPTER  XI 

TENTH  COURSE 

ICES 


ICES 

Ice  Cream,  Plain  Water-ice,    Orange 

Ice  Cream  with  Hot  Chocolate  Water-ice,    Strawberry 

Sauce  Water-ice,  Apricot 

Ice  Cream  with  Hot  Maple  Sauce  Water-ice,  Pineapple 

Ice  Cream,  Strawberry  Water-ice,   Macedoine 

Ice  Cream,  Melon  Cafe  Frappe 

Ice  Cream,  Peach  Cake 
Water-ice,  Lemon 


PLAIN  ICE   CREAM 

To  serve  with  or  without  hot  sauces. 
2  cupfuls  of  milk, 

1  cupful  of  cream, 
£  cupful  of  sugar, 

2  whole  eggs, 

1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  the  eggs  with  the  sugar,  then  scald  the  milk  and  turn 
it  over  them.  Place  the  whole  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler 
and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  to  set  the  eggs,  but  not  so  long 
that  the  mixture  thickens  like  a  custard.  Remove  from  the 
fire  and  add  the  cream  and  vanilla.  When  it  is  cold,  freeze 
and  mold  it. 


HOT  CHOCOLATE   SAUCE   FOR  ICE   CREAM 

Put  four  squares  of  unsweetened  chocolate  into  a  sauce- 
pan. Set  the  saucepan  into  a  second  one  containing  hot 
water,  let  the  chocolate  melt  on  the  dry  pan,  then  remove 
it  and  stir  in  first  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  then  half  a  cupful 
of  hot  water.  Return  it  to  the  fire  and  stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved  and  the  mixture  is  smooth,  then  cook  without 
stirring  until  a  little  dropped  into  cold  water  can  be  taken 
up  and  rolled  into  a  ball  between  the  fingers.  Do  not  let 
it  cook  any  farther,  but  keep  the  pan  in  hot  water  until 
ready  to  serve,  then  turn  it  into  a  hot  sauce-dish.  It  will 
harden  and  form  a  crust  when  turned  over  the  cream. 

167 


168  LUNCHEONS 

It  is  essential  to  prepare  it  exactly  as  directed.  If  the 
chocolate  is  not  first  melted  on  a  dry  pan  it  will  be  grainy, 
and  if  the  water  is  added  first  it  will  harden. 

HOT  MAPLE  SAUCE  FOB  ICE  CREAM 

Mix  half  a  cupful  of  cream  with  two  cupfuls  of  maple 
syrup  and  let  it  cook  without  stirring  until  it  threads,  or  a 
little  dropped  into  water  can  be  taken  up  and  rolled  into 
a  soft  ball  between  the  fingers.  Do  not  let  it  cook  any 
farther,  but  set  the  pan  in  hot  water  and  keep  it  warm  until 
the  moment  of  serving. 

STRAWBERRY  ICE  CREAM 

1  pint  of  milk, 
1  pint  of  cream, 
1  pound  of  sugar, 

1  quart  of  strawberries,  or  of  strawberries 
and  raspberries  mixed. 

Mix  the  crushed  berries  with  half  of  the  sugar  and  let  them 
stand  for  several  hours,  then  squeeze  out  the  juice. 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  other  half  of  the  sugar,  let  it  cool, 
half  freeze  it,  then  add  the  cream  and  the  fruit  juice  and  fin- 
ish the  freezing. 

MELON  ICE   CREAM 

1     pint  of  milk, 

1     pint  of  cream, 

1^  pints  of  lemon  juice, 

2|  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Scrape  out  the  soft  center  of  a  muskmelon,  press  it  through 
a  colander,  add  half  the  sugar  to  it,  and  let  it  stand  several 
hours,  then  strain  out  the  juice. 

Scald  the  milk  with  the  other  half  of  the  sugar,  let  it  cool, 
mix  in  the  cream  and  half  freeze  it,  then  add  the  melon 


ICES  169 

juice  and  finish  the  freezing.  Serve  it  in  the  melon  rind  or 
mold  it.  To  mold,  line  a  melon-mold  with  a  layer  one 
inch  thick  of  the  frozen  cream,  colored  green,  and  fill  the 
center  with  the  plain  cream. 

PEACH  ICE  CREAM 

1    pint  of  milk, 
1    pint  of  cream, 
1£  pints  of  peach  pulp, 
2£  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Add  half  of  the  sugar  to  the  peach  pulp  and  let  it  stand 
for  two  or  three  hours,  then  press  it  again  through  a  sieve 
or  colander. 

Scald  the  milk  with  half  of  the  sugar,  let  it  cool,  half 
freeze  it,  and  then  add  the  cream  and  peach  pulp  and  finish 
freezing. 

WATER-ICES 

Express  the  juice  from  any  fruit,  dilute  it  with  a  little 
water,  or  leave  it  pure,  make  it  very  sweet  with  sugar,  or, 
preferably,  sugar  syrup,  and  add  a  very  little  lemon  juice. 
Freeze  the  mixture. 

Syrup  from  preserve-jars,  diluted  to  the  right  degree, 
makes  good  water-ice. 

Water-ices  are  difficult  to  mold,  so  it  is  better  to  serve  them 
in  glasses  or  in  individual  dishes. 

LEMON  ICE 

Juice  of  four  large  lemons, 
Juice  of  one  orange, 
2£  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes,  then  add  the 
fruit  juice,  strain  it,  and  when  it  is  cold  freeze  it. 


170  LUNCHEONS 

ORANGE   ICE 

1£  cupfuls  of  orange  juice, 

Juice  of  1  lemon, 
2£  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
1  cupful  of  water. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes,  add  the  fruit 
juice,  strain  it,  and  when  it  is  cold  freeze  it. 

STRAWBERRY  ICE 

1£  cupfuls  of  strawberry  juice, 
2    cupfuls  of  sugar, 
1     quart  of  water. 

Crush  the  berries  and  let  them  stand  in  part  of  the  sugar 
for  two  to  three  hours,  then  strain  out  the  juice.  Boil  the 
water  with  the  rest  of  the  sugar  for  ten  minutes,  add  the 
fruit  juice,  and  when  it  is  cold  freeze  it  by  turning  the  crank 
for  five  minutes,  then  stopping  for  five  minutes,  and  so  on 
until  it  is  frozen.  Serve  in  individual  glasses. 

APRICOT   ICE 

Chop,  mash,  and  press  through  a  sieve  a  canful  of  Califor- 
nia canned  apricots.  To  the  pulp  add  the  juice  from  the 
can,  two  cupfuls  of  water,  and  enough  sugar  to  make  it 
quite  sweet.  Freeze  and  serve  in  glasses. 

PINEAPPLE   ICE 

Cut  off  the  top  of  a  pineapple  and  take  out  the  center, 
being  careful  to  leave  the  rind  uninjured.  Grate  the  pine- 
apple, and  to  the  pulp  and  juice  add  a  cupful  of  water, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  enough  sugar  to  make  it  very  sweet, 
as  it  loses  sweetness  in  freezing.  Freeze  it  and  serve  it  in  the 
shell  of  the  pine. 


NO.   156.      PINEAPPLE  ICE. 


NO.    157.      MACEDOINE  ICE. 


ICES  171 

MACEDOINE   ICES 

Half  fill  glasses  with  mixed  fruits  cut  in  pieces,  using  any 
combination  of  summer  or  winter  fruits  that  may  be  con- 
venient, such  as  oranges,  bananas,  grapes,  canned  peaches, 
canned  cherries,  and  candied  cherries;  or  fresh  peaches  and 
pears,  grapes,  and  preserved  strawberries;  or  fresh  straw- 
berries and  cherries  and  sweet  apples.  Cover  the  fruit 
with  a  water-ice  made  of  any  fruit  juice. 

Serve  as  an  ice  for  dessert,  or  serve  in  small  glasses  as  a 
sherbet  before  the  game  course.  In  the  latter  case  a  mixture 
of  oranges,  grape-fruit,  and  grapes  with  lemon  or  orange 
ice  would  be  suitable,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  rum  or  sherry 
should  be  poured  over  the  ice  just  before  serving. 

CAFE   FRAPPE 

To  a  quart  of  strong  coffee  add  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk 
and  a  cupful  of  sugar;  freeze  it  and  serve  it  in  glasses,  or 
freeze  the  sweetened  coffee  and  serve  it  in  glasses  with 
whipped  cream  on  top.  In  the  latter  case  the  coffee  must  not 
be  quite  as  strong  as  when  mixed  with  the  cream. 

NOTE.— For  other  ices,  parfaits,  and  directions  for  freez- 
ing, see  "Century  Cook  Book,"  page  488. 


ELEVEN!  :  COUESE 


FRUITS 

Pineapple,  No.  1  Pineapple,  Pulled 

Pineapple,  No.  2  Currants 

Pineapple,  No.  3  Cherries 

Pineapple,  No.  4  Pears 


NO.   158.      PINEAPPLE   USED  AS   A  CENTERPIECE. 


NO.   159.     THE   SAME  PINEAPPLE   AS  SHOWN   IN   NO.   158  DIVESTED  OF  ITS 
COVERING  TO  SERVE  AT  DESSERT. 


NO.   160.      SLICED  PINEAPPLE,  NO.   2. 


NO.   161.      SLICED  PINEAPPLE   AKOKND  A  FOHM   OF  KICK,  NO.   3. 


NO.   16'2.     SLICED   PINEAPPLE,  NO.   4. 


PINEAPPLE 

This  is  a  well-selected  pine  called  the  sugar-loaf  on  account 
of  its  tapering  to  a  point  on  top.  The  top  and  bottom  are 
cut  off  square,  and  then  the  rind  on  the  sides.  The  inside 
is  cut  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  left  together 
in  natural  shape.  The  rind  is  then  fitted  around  it  and, 
if  necessary,  held  in  place  with  wooden  toothpicks  used  as 
skewers.  These  will  not  show,  and  can  be  easily  removed  at 
the  time  of  serving.  Use  the  pine  as  a  table  ornament  or 
centerpiece. 

No.  1.  The  rind  is  removed  from  the  pine  shown  in  illus- 
tration No.  158;  it  is  then  covered  with  sugar  and 
passed. 

No.  2.  The  pineapple  has  been  cut  into  slices  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  then  in  halves.  The  half  slices  are 
stood  on  edge  and  powdered  sugar  is  placed  in  the 
center  of  the  circle. 

Pineapple  is  much  better  in  thick  slices.  The  less 
taste  of  the  knife  the  better.  Cut  in  this  way,  there 
is  no  difficulty  about  the  pieces  standing  in  place  as 
shown  in  illustration. 

No.  3.  Cut  the  pineapple  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  then  into  quarters.    Arrange  the  quarters,  stand- 
ing on  edge,  diagonally  around  the  mound  of  boiled 
rice.     Place  the  sprout  of  the  pine  in  the  center  of 
175 


176  LUNCHEONS 

the  mound  of  rice.  Have  the  rice  sweetened  and  fla- 
vored. Sherry  or  maraschino  are  good  flavorings 
to  use. 

Cornstarch  pudding,  blancmange,  or  any  simple 
jelly,  can  be  used  instead  of  the  rice. 

No.  4.  Cut  a  pineapple  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
With  a  small  biscuit-cutter  stamp  out  the  hard  cen- 
ters, leaving  the  pineapple  in  rings.  Arrange  the 
rings,  overlapping,  in  a  circle.  Sprinkle  them  with 
granulated  sugar,  and  garnish  with  a  small  leaf  of 
the  pine  laid  in  each  hole. 

Pulled  pineapple.    This  is  a  delicious  way  of  serving  the 
pine  when  it  is  very  ripe. 

Cut  off  the  rind,  and  with  a  small,  pointed  knife  take  out 
the  eyes.  Put  a  fork  in  the  hard  core  to  hold  it,  and  with 
a  second  fork  tear  off  the  soft  pulp.  Pile  the  pieces  in  a  glass 
dish  and  sprinkle  them  plentifully  with  sugar.  Let  it  stand 
a  few  minutes  to  extract  the  juice  before  serving. 

CHERRIES 

No.  1.  Tie  the  cherries  together  by  the  stems  into  bunches 
resembling  bunches  of  grapes.  If  convenient,  have 
bunches  of  red  and  white  cherries  on  the  same  dish. 

No.  2.  Turn  lace  papers  into  cornucopias  and  fill  them  with 
cherries  tied  into  even  bunches ;  let  the  stems  turn  to 
the  points  of  the  cornucopias,  so  the  fruit  only  shows 
in  the  opening. 

Arrange  the  cornucopias  on  center  dishes,  in  cone 
shape,  the  points  in. 

NOTE.— For  other  arrangements  of  fruits,  see  "Century 
Cook  Book,"  page  529. 


NO.   163.      PULLED   PINEAPPLE. 


NO.   164.      STRAWBERRIES   SERVED  WITH  THE   HULLS  ON. 


NO.   165.      PEARS   ARRANGED  FOR  CENTERPIECE. 


NO.    ICG.      CENTERPIECE  OF  RKD  AND    OF   WHITE  CURRANTS  FOR  THE 
BREAKFAST-   OR   THE    LUNCHEON-TABLE. 


NO.    167.      CENTEIil'IECE    OF   RKD    AND   OF   WHITE   CURRANTS  ARRANGED 
IN    A   CIRCLE,    THE  COLORS  ALTERNATING. 


CHAPTEK  XIII 
LOAF   CAKES -SMALL   CAKES -FANCY   CAKES 


LOAF   CAKES 


Gingerbread  with  Chocolate  Glaze 
Gingerbread  with  Whipped  Cream 
Gingerbread  with  Preserved  Gin- 
ger 

Orange-cake,  No.  1 
Orange-cake,     No.     2,     or    Plain 

Cup-cake 
Chocolate-cake 
Cocoanut-cake 
Cocoanut  Cream-cake 
Cake  Decorated  with  Star 


Cake  Decorated  in  Two  Shades  of 

White  Icing 
Iced  Cake  Decorated  with  Pink 

Bow-knot 
Cake    Decorated    with    Candied 

Violets 
Cake    Decorated    with     Candied 

Eose-leaves 
Cake-basket    Holding    Meringue 

Mushrooms 


SMALL   CAKES 


Jelly-roll 
Daisy  Cakes 
Medallion  Fruit-cakes 


Cup-cakes     with 
Flower  Design 


Decoration    of 


FANCY   CAKES 


Cherry-cakes 
Domino  Cakes 
Marble  Cakes 
Hemispheres 
Cream-cakes 
Cream-cakes,  Iced 
Cream-cakes  with  Jam  and  Whip- 
ped (.'ream 


Little  Cream-cakes  with  Caramel 

Icing 

Meringue  Mushrooms 
Cocoanut  Meringues 
Galettes 
Pastry  Fingers 


LOAF   CAKES 

GINGERBREAD  WITH  CHOCOLATE  GLAZE 

No.  1.  £  of  a  cupful  of  butter, 
1  cupful  of  sugar, 
3  cupfuls  of  flour, 
1  cupful  of  dark  molasses, 
1  cupful  of  black  coffee, 
1  teaspoonful  of  ginger, 
£  teaspoonful  of  cloves, 
1  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon, 
1  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
3  eggs. 

Mix  the  spices  with  the  molasses.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a 
little  boiling  water  and  add  it  to  the  coffee.  Cream  together 
the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat 
each  one  well.  Add  the  molasses,  then  the  coffee  and  flour, 
a  little  at  a  time,  alternately.  Bake  in  two  bread-tins  in  a 
moderate  oven  forty  to  sixty  minutes,  or  until  the  cake  leaves 
the  sides  of  the  pans. 

Invert  the  loaves  and  cover  the  tops  with  a  chocolate  glaze 
made  as  follows : 

CHOCOLATE   GLAZE 

Put  into  a  double  saucepan  two  ounces  or  squares  of 
chocolate.  When  it  is  melted  remove  it  from  the  fire  and 
stir  into  it  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  then  add  a  quarter  cupful 
of  hot  water.  Return  it  to  the  fire,  stir  it  until  the  sugar 

179 


180  LUNCHEONS 

is  dissolved,  and  continue  to  cook  it  without  stirring  until 
a  little  dropped  in  water  can  be  taken  up  and  rolled  between 
the  fingers  into  a  soft  ball.  Pour  it  over  the  top  of  the  cake. 

No.  2.  With  whipped  cream.  Use  the  same  receipt  as  No.  1, 
substituting  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  for  the  coffee, 
and  using  half  butter  and  half  lard ;  or  two  cupfuls 
of  molasses  may  be  used,  and  the  sugar  omitted.  In 
the  latter  case  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  instead  of 
one  should  be  dissolved  in  a  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
Serve  the  cake  very  fresh,  and  cover  the  top  just  be- 
fore serving  with  whipped  cream. 

The  cake  may  be  broken  into  squares,  and  the 
pieces  fitted  together  and  covered  entirely  with 
whipped  cream.  It  can  then  be  passed  with  a  fork 
and  spoon,  as  a  dessert. 

No.  3.  With  preserved  ginger. 

1  cupful  of  black  molasses, 
|  cupful  of  butter, 

2  cupfuls  of  flour, 

^  cupful  of  boiling  water  with  a  teaspoonful 

of  soda  dissolved  in  it, 
•J  teaspoonful  of  ginger, 
2  eggs, 

A  dash  of  salt. 

Warm  the  molasses  and  mix  it  with  the  butter,  add  the 
ginger  and  salt,  then  the  beaten  eggs,  and  lastly  the  flour 
and  water,  a  little  at  a  time,  alternately.  Bake  in  a  square 
pan.  Break  the  cake  into  square  pieces.  Open  each  piece 
and  spread  between  the  halves  some  icing,  No.  1  or  No.  2, 
mixed  with  chopped  preserved  ginger;  or  use  a  chocolate 
icing. 

Serve  very  fresh. 


NO.    168.      GINGERBREAD. 
1.   WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM.     2.  WITH  CHOCOLATE  GLAZE. 


NO.   169.      ORANGE-CAKE  IN  CRESCENTS. 


m. 

NO.    170.     COCOANUT-CAKE. 


LOAF  CAKES  — SMALL  CAKES -FANCY  CAKES    181 

ORANGE-CAKE,  No.  1 

Yolks  of  five  eggs, 

Whites  of  three  eggs, 
2  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
2  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  three  times  with 
1  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
•|  cupful  of  water, 

Juice  of  one  orange, 

Grated  peel  of  one  half  orange. 

First  beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  thoroughly,  then 
add  the  orange  juice  and  grated  peel,  then  the  flour  and 
water,  a  little  at  a  time,  alternately,  and  lastly  the  whites 
of  three  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth. 

Make  the  layer  one  and  a  quarter  inches  thick  for  cres- 
cents. 

Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
the  cake  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Cut  the  layer  into 
pieces  with  a  crescent-shaped  cutter,  and  cover  the  tops  with 
icing  No.  1,  page  191,  made  of  confectioners'  sugar  and  with 
wrater  strained  from  grated  peel.  Arrange  the  crescents  as 
shown  in  illustration. 

The  amount  of  mixture  given  in  above  receipt  will  make 
a  long  layer  which  can  be  cut  into  eight  crescents,  and  two 
round  layers  one  inch  thick  and  six  inches  in  diameter. 
Spread  the  tops  of  the  round  layers  with  same  icing  and 
place  one  on  top  of  the  other;  or  use  cocoanut  cream  filling 
in  place  of  the  icing,  as  in  illustration  No.  171. 

ORANGE-CAKE,  No.  2,  or  PLAIN   CUP-CAKE 

^  cupful  of  butter,  -J  cupful  of  milk, 

1  cupful  of  sugar,  2  eggs, 

2  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,    i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
Grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  orange,  or  of  one  lemon, 


182  LUNCHEONS 

Beat  together  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  and  the  flavoring,  then  alternately,  a  little  at  a  time, 
the  milk  and  the  flour  which  has  been  mixed  with  the  baking- 
powder  by  sifting  them  together.  Lastly  fold  in  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
If  flavored  with  orange,  cover  the  loaf  with  orange  icing,  or 
bake  it  in  layers  and  spread  the  icing  between  the  layers  as 
well  as  on  top.  The  icing  should  be  mixed  with  the  juice 
of  an  orange  and  the  part  put  between  the  layers  should  have 
some  of  the  grated  peel  in  it. 

CHOCOLATE-CAKE 

Shave  four  squares  of  unsweetened  chocolate,  add  half 
a  cupful  of  milk  and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Boil  until 
thickened,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
stir  them  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs 
and  the  chocolate  mixture,  then  alternately,  a  little  at  a 
time,  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  mixed  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder,  and  half  a  cupful  of  milk.  Lastly,  fold 
in  the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Bake  in  loaves  or  in  layers  in 
a  moderate  oven.  This  amount  of  mixture  will  make  two 
loaves. 

Cover  with  chocolate  icing  No.  13.  If  in  layers,  use  the 
same  icing  between  the  layers. 

COCOANTJT-CAKE 

Make  two  layers  of  cake,  using  any  cake  mixture.  Spread 
cream  filling  between  the  layers.  Cut  the  edges  even,  using 
a  sharp  knife.  Cover  the  whole  with  icing  and  before  it 
hardens  sprinkle  it  with  a  plentiful  amount  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut. 


NO.   171.      COCOANUT-CREAM  CAKE. 


NO.   172.      LOAF  OF  CAKE   UKCORATKl)  WITH   I'OWDKRKD  SUGAR  AND 
STAR  OF  rOWDFKKD   C'OCOA. 


NO.   17D.      LOAF  OF  CAKi;  DIXOKATED    WITH   ICING    IX  TWO  SHADES  OF  WHITE, 


LOAF  CAKES— SMALL   CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES        183 

COCOANUT   CREAM-CAKE 

Use  any  cake  mixture  for  the  layers.     The  orange-cake 
mixtures  are  recommended. 
Make  a  filling  as  follows :  put  in  a  saucepan, 
1  cupful  of  milk, 
1  cupful  of  sugar, 
£  cupful  of  cocoanut, 

A  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  nutmeg. 

Mix  them  and  let  them  come  to  the  boiling-point,  then  add 
slowly  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch,  moistened  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  milk,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  thick- 
ened. Remove  it  from  the  fire  and  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg.  When  it  cools  and  is  beginning  to  set,  spread  it  over 
the  tops  of  both  layers  of  cake  and  place  one  on  the  other. 
Trim  the  edges.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  powdered  sugar  or 
with  grated  cocoanut. 

The  cake  in  the  illustration  has  in  the  center  a  confec- 
tioner's rose.  Various  kinds  of  sugar  flowers  can  be  bought 
at  bakers'  supply  stores. 

CAKE   DECORATED   WITH   STAR 

Paint  the  surface  of  an  inverted  loaf  of  any  kind  of  cake 
with  white  of  egg,  then  sift  over  it  wrhile  it  is  moist  enough 
powdered  sugar  to  whiten  it.  Place  a  star  stencil  on  top,  get 
it  exactly  in  the  center,  and  sift  powdered  cocoa  into  the 
opening. 

The  star  could  be  made  of  granulated  sugar,  colored  pink, 
if  preferred,  or  a  space  could  be  filled  with  small  candies 
called  "hundreds  and  thousands." 

TO   MAKE   STENCIL 

Place  a  piece  of  stiff  paper  over  the  bottom  of  the  inverted 
pan  in  which  the  cake  was  baked  and  crease  it  enough  to  in- 


184  LUNCHEONS 

dicate  the  circle.  Outline  the  circle  with  a  pencil  and  draw 
inside  of  it  two  other  circles,  the  first  half  an  inch  and  the 
second  one  and  a  half  inches  inside  the  outer  one.  Draw 
two  lines  across  the  circles  at  right  angles,  then  two  more 
lines  at  equal  distances  between  the  others,  then  draw  pointed 
lines  in  the  eight  spaces  between  the  second  and  third  circles. 


CAKE   DECORATED   IN  TWO  SHADES  OF  WHITE  ICING 

The  illustration  shows  a  simple  pattern  for  decorating  a 
loaf  of  cake.  The  cake  can  be  made  of  any  mixture.  It 
is  first  covered  with  icing  No.  3,  page  192,  which  gives 
a  clear  icing  and  makes  a  good  background  for  the  white 
lines.  If  it  does  not  run  evenly  dip  a  knife  in  water  and 
smooth  it.  Most  irregularities  can  be  smoothed  out  with  a 
clean,  wet  knife.  The  lines  are  made  of  decorating  icing, 
which  is  white  (No.  16,  page  195),  pressed  through  a  pastry- 
bag  with  tube  of  small  opening.  Each  one  of  the  center 
figures  of  the  pattern  holds  a  small  silvered  pellet  of  candy. 


ICED   CAKE   DECORATED   WITH  PINK  BOW-KNOT 

Cover  the  cake  with  a  smooth,  hard  icing  (No.  2  or  No.  4) . 
Put  decorating  icing  (No.  16),  colored  pink  with  cochineal, 
into  a  pastry-bag  with  tube  of  plain,  small  opening,  and 
trace  a  bow-knot  with  it.  Fill  the  space  between  the  outlines 
with  pink  icing,  and  flatten  it,  to  look  like  a  ribbon,  with 
a  wet  knife. 

If  the  icing  is  not  satisfactory,  take  it  off  with  a  knife, 
wipe  the  cake  with  a  dry  cloth,  and  make  another  trial.  A 
little  practice  with  a  pencil,  drawing  a  knot  of  the  right  size 
on  paper,  will  enable  one  to  trace  more  easily  the  outlines  on 
the  cake. 


NO.   174.      ICED  CAKE  DECORATED  WITH   PIXK  BOW-KNOT. 


NO.   175.      1.    ICEU  CAKE  DECORATED   WITH  CANDIED  ROSE-LEAVES. 
2.   ICED  CAKE  DECORATED   WITH  CANDIED  VIOLETS. 


NO.    176.      LOAF   OF   CAKE   COVERED   WITH   TUTTI   FKUTTI  ICING. 


NO.   177.      CAKE-BASKET  HOLDING   MEHINGUK   MUSHKOOMS 


NO.    178.      1.   JELLY-ltoLL.      'J.    DAISY   CAKKS.      3.   MKUALL1OX  FRUIT-CAKES. 


LOAF  CAKES— SMALL   CAKES— FANCY  CAKES        185 

CAKES  DECORATED   WITH   CANDIED   VIOLETS 
AND  WITH  CANDIED   ROSE-LEAVES 

No.  1.  Cover  a  loaf  of  cake  with  icing  flavored  with  rose- 
water  or  extract.  Scatter  over  it  candied  pink  rose- 
leaves. 

No.  2.  Make  a  loaf  of  orange-cake.  Cover  it  with  white 
icing,  and  arrange  around  it  candied  violets  form- 
ing two  wreaths. 

CAKE-BASKET  HOLDING  MERINGUE  MUSHROOMS 

Make  a  loaf  of  any  kind  of  cake,  cup-  or  sponge-cake  pre- 
ferred. Bake  it  in  a  fluted  pan. 

Soften  a  long  piece  of  macaroni  in  boiling-hot  water.  It 
must  be  pressed  carefully  and  gradually  into  the  water  as  the 
ends  soften.  When  the  macaroni  is  sufficiently  softened, 
pour  cold  water  over  it,  lay  it  on  a  board,  and  bend  it  into  the 
shape  of  a  handle  of  suitable  size  for  the  cake.  Let  it  dry, 
then  brush  it  with  the  white  of  egg  and  sprinkle  it  with 
granulated  sugar. 

Cut  little  holes  in  the  top  of  the  cake  and  insert  the  handle. 
Cover  the  top  of  the  cake  with  mushroom-shaped  meringues 
(see  page  189). 

SMALL   CAKES 

No.  1.  Jelly-roll.  Make  a  layer  of  sponge-cake,  and  while  it 
is  still  hot  cut  off  the  edges,  spread  it  with  jelly,  and 
roll  it  together.  Then  roll  it  in  a  stiff  paper  and  tie 
it.  If  the  cake  is  not  over-baked  and  is  rolled  while 
hot  it  will  not  crack.  The  paper  will  keep  it  in  shape. 
Cover  the  top  and  ends  with  icing.  Decorate  it  with 
tracings  of  icing,  candied  cherries,  and  angelica. 


186  LUNCHEONS 

No.  2.  Daisy  cakes.  Drop  separate  spoonfuls  of  sponge- 
cake mixture  at  intervals  on  a  baking-sheet.  Bake 
in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes  only,  and  watch  care- 
fully that  the  edges  do  not  burn.  The  cakes  will 
spread,  rising  in  the  center,  and  be  thin  on  the  edges. 
Spread  the  flat  sides  with  an  icing  colored  green. 
Blanch  some  almonds,  split  them,  and  cut  them  in 
strips.  Arrange  them  in  a  circle,  and  place  in  the 
center  a  little  icing  mixed  with  yolk  of  egg  to  color 
it  yellow ;  or  the  icing  can  be  white  and  the  almonds 
colored  in  the  oven  to  a  light  yellow. 


No.  3.  Medallion  fruit-cakes.  Use  a  sponge-  or  a  cup-cake 
mixture  and  bake  it  in  gem-pans.  If  they  rise  in  the 
center  cut  off  the  tops  to  even  them.  Invert  them, 
and  with  a  small  cutter  stamp  a  circle  in  the  center 
of  each  one  and  take  out  a  thin  layer  of  the  cake. 
Cover  the  rest  of  the  cakes  with  icing,  or  the  cakes 
may  be  moistened  with  water  and  then  rubbed  over 
with  powdered  sugar  to  whiten  them.  Place  in  the 
center  of  each,  where  the  piece  was  removed,  a  piece 
of  preserved  peach  or  other  fruit,  cut  with  the  same 
stamp  previously  used,  so  the  fruit  will  exactly  fit 
the  opening. 


CUP-CAKES  WITH  DECORATION  OF  FLOWER  DESIGN 

Make  a  cup-cake  mixture  and  bake  it  in  gem-pans.  In- 
vert the  cakes  and  cover  them  with  icing  Nos.  1,  2,  or  3. 
Place  on  top  of  each  one  half  a  candied  cherry,  the  flat  side 
down,  two  pieces  of  angelica  cut  into  diamond  shape  to  im- 
itate leaves,  and  a  thin  strip  of  angelica  to  imitate  a  stem. 


NO.   179.      CUP-CAKES,   DECORATION   OF  FLOWER  DESIGN. 


NO.   180.      FANCY  CAKES. 
1.   CHERRY  CAKES.      2.   DOMINO  CAKES.      3.   MARBLE   CAKES.      4.   HEMISPHERES. 


LOAF  CAKES  — SMALL  CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES   187 

FANCY  CAKES 

No.  1.  Cherry-cakes.  Cut  a  layer  of  any  kind  of  cake  into 
pieces  three  inches  long  and  two  and  a  quarter  wide. 
Ice  them,  lay  on  candied  cherries  cut  in  halves,  small 
strips  of  angelica  imitating  stems,  and  angelica  cut 
in  diamond-shaped  pieces  imitating  leaves. 

The  cakes  in  illustration  are  made  of  sponge-cake; 
the  two  on  the  outside  are  covered  with  icing  No.  4, 
the  other  two  with  maple  icing  No.  5. 

No.  2.  Domino  cakes.  Cut  a  layer  of  cake  into  two  pieces. 
Cover  one  with  chocolate  icing  and  the  other  with 
white  icing.  While  the  icing  is  still  soft  cut  the  cake, 
using  a  sharp  knife,  into  pieces  three  inches  long 
and  one  and  a  half  inches  wide. 

Put  a  little  decorating  icing  (No.  16)  into  a  pastry- 
bag  with  plain  tube  of  small  opening,  and  press  it 
through  on  to  the  cakes  in  dots  and  lines  to  imitate 
dominoes.  Use  white  icing  for  the  chocolate  pieces, 
and  the  same  icing  mixed  with  cocoa  powder  for  the 
white  pieces. 

No.  3.  Marble  cakes.  Drop  any  cake  mixture  from  a  spoon 
on  to  a  floured  baking-sheet,  using  about  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  mixture  for  each  cake,  and  leaving 
enough  space  for  the  cakes  to  spread.  Place  on  the  flat 
sides  icings  of  three  colors  and  let  them  run  together 
irregularly  to  give  a  marble-like  appearance. 

No.  4.  Hemispheres.    Make  a  cake  mixture,  using, 
£  cupful  of  butter, 
£  cupful  of  powdered  sugar, 
f  cupful  of  pastry  flour, 
£  teaspoonful  of  vanilla, 
Yolks  of  two  eggs. 


188  LUNCHEONS 

Cream  together  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  yolks  and 
flavoring,  and  then  the  flour.  Make  it  into  balls  one  inch  in 
diameter,  by  rolling  small  portions  of  the  mixture  between 
the  hands.  Roll  the  balls  in  powdered  sugar  and  place  them 
on  a  floured  tin.  They  will  flatten  in  baking  and  leave  the 
shape  of  hemispheres.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  ten  to 
fifteen  minutes.  Cover  the  flat  sides  with  icing  of  different 
colors  and  ornament  with  decorating  icing  pressed  through 
a  tube  of  small  opening. 

In  the  illustration  some  of  the  cakes  have  only  the  deco- 
rating icing  in  rings  with  a  spot  of  jelly  in  the  center,  others 
have  pistache  with  decoration,  and  others  have  plain  icing 
with  a  spot  of  jelly  in  the  center. 

CREAM-CAKES 

To  a  cupful  of  hot  water  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  dash  of  salt.  When  the 
sugar  is  dissolved  and  the  butter  melted  add  a  cupful  and  a 
quarter  of  flour.  Cook  it,  stirring  all  the  time,  until  it  is 
a  smooth  paste  that  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Let  it  cool 
a  few  minutes  and  then  add  three  or,  if  necessary,  four  eggs, 
beating  in  well  one  at  a  time.  The  paste  should  have  suf- 
ficient consistency  to  hold  its  shape  without  spreading  when 
dropped  from  a  spoon. 

Put  the  paste  into  a  pastry-bag  with  a  plain  tube  of  half- 
inch  opening  and  press  it  through  into  balls  from  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  to  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter, 
according  to  the  size  of  cakes  wanted.  Brush  the  tops  with 
egg  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  or 
until  the  cakes  are  puffed  and  feel  light. 

If  they  are  to  be  used  for  plain  cream-cakes,  open  them 
on  one  side  and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  cream  filling  made  as 
follows : 


XO.   181.      CREAM  CAKES,    ICED. 


NO.   182.    CREAM   CAKES   WITH  JAM   AND    WHIPPED  CREAM. 


NO.    183.      MERINGUE    MUSHROOMS. 


LOAF  CAKES -SMALL  CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES        189 

CREAM  FILLING 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch,  add  a  pint  of 
scalding  milk  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  is  well  thickened, 
then  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  other  flavoring. 

CREAM-CAKES,   ICED 

Make  cream-cakes  two  inches  in  diameter,  fill  them  with 
charlotte  rnsse  filling,  or  with  apricot  or  other  jam,  and 
whipped  cream.  Cover  them  with  icing  No.  1  or  2;  or  fill 
them  with  cream  filling  flavored  with  coffee  and  cover  them 
with  icing  No.  1  made  with  coffee. 

CREAM-CAKES  WITH   JAM  AND  WHIPPED   CREAM 

Make  cream-cakes  one  to  one  and  a  half  inches  across. 
Open  and  spread  the  inside  with  apricot  or  any  jam,  and 
then  fill  them  with  whipped  cream.  Boil  a  little  sugar  and 
water  to  the  crack ;  that  is,  until  a  little  of  the  boiling  sugar 
dropped  into  water  will  be  brittle  enough  to  break  with  a 
snap.  Pour  this  over  the  cakes,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
chopped  blanched  almonds. 

LITTLE   CREAM-CAKES  WITH  CARAMEL  ICING 

Make  cream-cakes  of  one  inch  diameter.  Fill  them  with 
cream  filling,  and  cover  them  with  sugar  boiled  to  the  crack, 
as  directed  above.  Place  each  one  in  a  little  paper  box  with 
other  fancy  cakes. 

MERINGUE    MUSHROOMS 

Place  meringue  mixture  (see  page  150)  in  a  pastry-bag 
with  a  plain  tube,  and  press  it  through  into  shapes  like  mush- 
room caps.  This  is  done  by  holding  the  tube  still  until 


190  LUNCHEONS 

enough  of  the  egg  is  pressed  through  to  form  a  cap  of  the  size 
desired  and  high  in  the  center.  With  a  wet  knife  lightly 
press  down  the  point  left  by  the  tube,  and,  if  necessary, 
smooth  the  whole  top.  On  another  paper  make  forms  resem- 
bling mushroom  stems,  and  with  a  wet  knife  flatten  the  tops. 
Place  all  in  a  cool  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  form  a  crust, 
but  do  not  let  them  color.  When  a  little  firm  place  them  on 
the  hot  shelf  to  dry.  Sprinkle  the  tops  of  the  caps  with 
powdered  cocoa,  and  with  the  finger  darken  an  edge  around 
the  flat  under  surface  to  represent  the  gills  of  a  mushroom. 
Moisten  the  tops  of  the  stems  with  white  of  egg  and  stick 
them  on  the  caps. 

COCOANUT  MERINGUES 

Place  meringue  mixture  (page  150)  in  a  pastry-bag  with 
plain  tube  of  one-half  inch  opening,  and  press  it  through  on 
to  paper  in  pieces  about  three  inches  long.  Cut  the  meringue 
from  the  tube  to  give  clean  ends.  Sprinkle  the  tops  with  as 
much  grated  cocoanut  as  will  adhere.  Desiccated  cocoanut 
can  be  used.  Place  in  a  moderate  oven  to  color  it  lightly, 
then  remove  to  the  hot  shelf  of  the  range  to  dry. 

These  meringues  are  also  pretty  if  pressed  through  a  star- 
tube  into  rings. 

GAIETIES 

Roll  puff -paste  trimmings  as  thin  as  possible.  Stamp  it  all 
over  with  some  rough  surface  which  will  pierce  the  paste 
(a  wooden  meat-pounder  was  used  for  those  in  illustration). 
Then  cut  with  a  plain  biscuit-cutter  into  round  or  oblong 
shapes.  Lay  these  on  a  baking-sheet,  paint  the  tops  all  over 
evenly  with  egg,  and  sprinkle  them  with  powdered  sugar. 
Bake  in  a  medium  oven  until  lightly  colored. 

Every  scrap  of  paste  can  be  utilized  for  these  cakes,  which 
are  very  nice  with  ice-cream  or  for  afternoon  tea-cakes. 


NO.   184.      COCOANUT  MERINGUES. 


NO.   185.      GALETTES. 


LOAF  CAKES  — SMALL  CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES    191 

There  is  a  utensil  for  making  these  cakes,  but  it  is  too  ex- 
pensive for  general  use.  It  is  a  metal  plate  with  raised 
pattern,  and  over  this  the  thin  paste  is  rolled. 

PASTRY  FINGERS 

Roll  puff-paste  to  one-eighth  inch  thickness.  Cut  it  into 
strips  one  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long.  Spread  one 
half  of  the  strips  with  a  thin  layer  of  any  kind  of  jam,  and 
cover  with  the  remaining  strips,  making  sandwich-like 
pieces.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes,  or  until  done, 
then  paint  the  tops  with  white  of  egg  and  sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar  and  chopped  blanched  almonds.  Return  to 
the  oven  to  glaze  and  slightly  color  the  nuts. 

If  not  used  at  once  place  the  fingers  in  the  oven  a  few  min- 
utes to  freshen  them  before  serving. 

ICINGS 

No.  1.  Using  confectioners'  sugar.  This  is  XXXX  sugar,  and 
is  exceedingly  fine. 

Mix  confectioners'  sugar  with  enough  water  to 
make  it  spread  evenly.  A  little  flavoring  of  any  kind 
may  be  put  in  the  water,  but  is  not  necessary.  This 
makes  a  soft,  clear  icing,  which  is  very  nice  and  is 
the  easiest  of  all  icings  to  prepare  and  handle. 

For  orange  icing.  Use  strained  orange  juice  instead 
of  water,  or  soak  the  grated  peel  in  hot  water  for  a 
little  while,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  cloth  and 
use  the  water. 

For  yellow  icing.  Dilute  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  a 
little  water,  and  flavor  with  mandarin  orange  extract. 


192  LUNCHEONS 

For  pistache  icing.  Color  the  water  with  green  color- 
ing paste,  and  flavor  it  with  one  teaspoonful  of  or- 
ange-flower water  and  one  quarter  teaspoonful  of 
bitter-almond  extract. 

For  pink  icing.  Use  strawberry  juice,  or  color  water 
with  a  little  cochineal. 

For  wine-cakes.     Use  sherry  instead  of  water. 

No.  2.  Hard,  white  icing.  Take  the  unbeaten  white  of  an 
egg,  dilute  it  with  a  very  little  water  and  flavor  it. 
Stir  in  powdered  sugar  until  it  is  of  the  consistency 
to  spread. 

This  makes  a  hard,  white  icing. 

No.  3.  Boiled  icing.  Put  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and 
a  half  cupful  of  hot  water  into  a  saucepan  and  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  let  it  boil  without 
stirring  until  it  threads  or,  if  dropped  into  water, 
it  can  be  taken  up  and  rolled  between  the  fingers  into 
a  soft  ball.  Remove  it  from  the  fire  and  stir  until 
it  slightly  clouds,  then  immediately  pour  it  over  the 
cake. 

This  makes  a  clear  icing,  and  is  a  good  coloring 
for  cakes  which  are  to  be  decorated,  as  it  gives,  with 
the  decorating  icing,  two  colors. 

No.  4.  Boiled  icing,  No.  2.  Cook,  without  stirring,  after  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar 
and  one  quarter  cupful  of  hot  water  until  it  threads, 
then  pour  it  slowly  over  the  whipped  white  of  one 
egg.  Beat  the  mixture  all  the  time,  and  until  it  is 
cool  enough  to  spread. 


LOAF  CAKES  — SMALL  CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES   193 

No.  5.  Maple  icing.  Boil  to  the  thread  or  soft-ball  stage 
a  cupful  of  maple  sugar  with  a  quarter  of  a  cupful 
of  hot  water  to  dissolve  it,  or  use  maple  syrup.  Pour 
it  slowly  over  the  whipped  white  of  one  egg  as  in 
No.  4. 

No.  6.  Caramel  icing.  Boil  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
a  half  cupful  of  milk,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  to 
the  thread  or  soft-ball  stage.  Flavor  with  a  few  drops 
of  vanilla  and  stir  until  it  begins  to  grain. 

No.  7.  Crystal  icing.  Spread  any  icing  over  a  cake,  and 
while  it  is  still  moist  sprinkle  over  it  the  coarse  grains 
of  granulated  sugar  obtained  by  sifting. 

No.  8.  Powdered  sugar.  Moisten  with  a  brush  the  surface 
of  a  cake  with  the  white  of  an  egg  diluted  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  water  and  stirred  just  enough  to 
break  the  stringiness ;  then  dust  it  thickly  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  using  a  sifter.  After  the  egg  has  dried, 
shake  off  the  sugar  that  does  not  adhere. 

No.  9.  "Whipped  cream.  Flavor  a  half  pint  of  cream  with  a 
few  drops  of  vanilla  and  whip  it  until  it  is  stiff  and 
dry.  Just  before  serving  the  cake  ornament  it  with 
the  whipped  cream  pressed  through  a  pastry-bag  and 
star-tube. 

This  cream  is  used  with  strawberry  cake  and  with 
molasses  gingerbread. 

No.  10.  Whipped  cream  with  maple  flavor.  Heat  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  maple  syrup  and  dissolve  in  it  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  granulated  gelatine  which  has  been 
soaked  in  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water.  Let  the 


194  LUNCHEONS 

syrup  cool  so  it  will  not  heat  the  cream,  but  before 
it  sets  stir  it  into  a  half  pint  of  cream.  Whip  the 
cream  to  a  stiff  froth  and  press  it  through  a  pastry- 
bag  and  tube  on  to  the  cake  in  an  ornamental  pat- 
tern. 

No.  11.  Butter.  "Whip  a  half  pound  of  butter  until  it  is 
smooth  and  light,  sweeten  it  with  thick  sugar  syrup 
flavored,  and  add  a  level  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch.  Press  it  through  a  pastry-bag  and  tube  on 
to  the  cake  in  ornamental  designs. 

No.  12.  Mocha  cream.  "Whip  half  a  pound  of  butter,  using 
a  fork,  until  it  is  smooth  and  light.  Flavor  it  with 
syrup  made  of  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  quar- 
ter cupful  of  strong  coffee.  Add  a  level  tablespoon- 
ful of  cornstarch  to  give  the  butter  more  stability. 
Press  it  through  a  pastry-bag  and  tube. 

No.  13.  Chocolate  icing,  No.  1.  Dissolve  one  and  a  half 
ounces  of  unsweetened  chocolate  in  one  third  cupful 
of  cream  or  milk,  and  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter.  When  this  mixture  is  a  little  cool  add  the 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  one  half  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  and  enough  confectioners'  sugar  to  make 
it  spread. 

No.  14.  Chocolate  icing,  No.  2.  Melt  two  ounces  of  unsweet- 
ened chocolate  on  a  hot  pan,  remove  it  from  the  fire, 
and  add  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  and  lastly  a  quarter  cupful  of  milk.  Re- 
place it  on  the  fire  and  cook  until  a  little  dropped 
into  water  will  form  a  soft  ball.  Pour  it  over  the 
cake. 


LOAF  CAKES— SMALL  CAKES  — FANCY  CAKES   195 

No.  15.  Tutti  frutti  icing.  Cook  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a 
quarter  cupful  of  water  to  the  thread  or  soft-ball 
stage.  Turn  it  slowly  on  to  the  whipped  white  of 
one  egg.  Beat  them  together  and  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  each  of  chopped  blanched  almonds,  citron  cut 
in  small  pieces,  seeded  raisins,  candied  cherries  cut 
into  pieces,  and  angelica  cut  into  bits.  Spread  it 
roughly  over  the  cake.  Any  combination  of  fruits 
may  be  used  instead  of  those  given  above.  As  this 
is  a  rich  icing,  it  should  be  used  on  a  plain  cake,  such 
as  cup-  or  sponge-cake. 

No.  16.  Decorating  icing.  Whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a 
very  stiff  froth,  then  add  slowly  powdered  sugar 
until  the  mixture  is  so  stiff  that  every  point  and 
thread  left  by  the  beater  will  hold  its  place.  It  re- 
quires beating  a  long  time.  It  is  the  same  as  me- 
ringue mixture,  except  that  it  is  made  hard  with 
sugar  instead  of  by  drying,  and  takes  about  a  half 
cupful  of  sugar  to  each  egg. 

NOTE. — Sprinkle  a  cake  that  is  going  to  be  frosted  with 
flour  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  pan.  Before 
icing,  wipe  off  the  flour.  This  prevents  the  icing 
from  running  so  much,  and  makes  it  easier  to  spread. 

NOTE.— Smooth  icings  with  the  broad  side  of  a  wet  knife. 
Wipe  the  blade  clean,  and  dip  it  in  water  each  time 
it  is  drawn  over  the  icing.  In  this  way  very  rough 
surfaces  can  be  smoothed. 

NOTE. — Icing  left  over  will  keep  any  length  of  time,  if  ex- 
cluded from  the  air  and  not  allowed  to  dry.  Put  it 
in  a  cup,  cover  the  cup  with  a  wet  cloth,  double  sev- 
eral times,  and  cover  the  cloth  with  a  saucer. 

NOTE.— For  other  icings  and  directions,  see  "Century  Cook 
Book,"  page  483. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

BREADS 


BREADS 


Stirred  Bread 

Water  Bread 

Whole  Wheat  Bread 

Unleavened  Bread-chips 

Scotch  Oat-cakes 

Pulled  Bread 

Lace  Toast  or  Zwieback 

Swiss  Eolls 

Luncheon  or  Dinner  Eolls,  Braids, 

Twists 

Striped  Bread  and  Butter 
Checkered  Bread  and  Butter 


Sandwiches,  Bread  and  Butter 

Sandwiches,  Eolled  or  Motto 

Sandwiches,  Lettuce 

Sandwiches :  Cucumber,  Egg, 
Cheese,  Watercress,  Pate"  de 
Foie  Gras,  Chicken,  Fish  or 
Meat,  Nasturtium  Flowers,  Ol- 
ives, Nuts,  Jam  or  Jellies 

Sandwiches,  Toasted  Cheese 

Brioche 

Corn-muffins 

Cheese-crackers 


STIRRED  BREAD 

1£  quarts  of  water, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter,  lard,  or  cottolene, 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt, 

1  cake  of  compressed  yeast, 

Flour  enough  to  make  a  thick  batter,  or  about 
two  and  three-quarter  quarts. 

This  quantity  of  material  will  make  three  loaves. 

Have  the  water  warm,  not  hot.  Stir  into  the  water  the 
sugar,  salt,  softened  butter,  and  the  yeast,  which  has  been 
dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water  (yeast  is  more  easily 
dissolved  in  a  small  quantity  of  water),  then  stir  in  enough 
flour  to  make  a  batter  as  thick  as  can  be  stirred  easily.  Stir 
and  beat  the  batter  well  for  about  ten  minutes.  Cover  the 
bread-pan  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  (eighty  degrees  is  the 
right  temperature).  When  the  dough  is  light,  or  about 
double  its  bulk,  stir  it  down,  and  beat  it  well  for  a  few  min- 
utes. Let  it  rise  a  second  time,  and  again  beat  it,  then  turn 
it  into  the  pans,  filling  them  half  full.  The  tops  of  the 
loaves  can  be  made  smooth  by  brushing  them  with  a  pastry- 
brush  dipped  in  water. 

The  stirring  gives  a  fine  texture.  The  dough  rises  quickly 
after  the  first  rising,  and  must  be  watched  that  it  does  not 
get  light  enough  to  sour.  Let  the  loaves  rise  in  the  baking- 
pans  to  double  in  size,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  one  hour. 

Bread  made  in  this  way  is  very  light  and  spongy,  and 
is  much  better  than  that  which  is  made  so  thick  with  flour 

199 


200  LUNCHEONS 

that  it  can  be  kneaded.  It  has  also  the  other  advantages  of 
being  easier  to  make,  the  results  are  more  reliable,  and  the 
objection  of  too  much  handling  is  removed.  It  requires  an 
experienced  hand  to  knead  bread  without  making  it  too 
heavy  with  flour. 

WATER  BREAD 

2£  quarts  of  flour, 

1  quart  of  water, 

1  tablespoonful  of  salt, 

1£  cakes  of  compressed  yeast. 

Place  the  flour  on  the  hot  shelf  to  get  thoroughly  warm. 
Let  it  be  warm  to  the  hand.  Dissolve  the  yeast  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water,  and  add  it,  with  the  salt,  to  a  quart  of 
warm  water.  Turn  the  liquid  into  the  flour,  reserving  enough 
flour  to  use  on  the  molding-board.  Mix  it  thoroughly.  Turn 
it  on  to  the  board  and  form  it  into  well-shaped  loaves. 
This  quantity  of  material  will  make  three  loaves.  Let  it  rise 
in  the  pans  to  double  in  size,  which  will  take  about  one  and 
a  half  hours.  Bake  for  one  hour. 

This  bread  is  made  in  about  three  hours.  It  is  the  most 
simple  receipt  possible,  and  gives  excellent  results.  Some 
judgment  must  be  used  about  the  quantity  of  flour,  as  it 
takes  a  little  more  or  less  according  to  its  dryness. 

WHOLE   WHEAT   BREAD 

1\  quarts  of  whole  wheat  flour, 
1    teaspoonful  of  salt, 
\    cupful  of  molasses  or  of  sugar, 
£    cake  of  compressed  yeast, 
About  1  quart  of  water. 

Add  the  salt  to  the  water.  Mix  the  molasses  with  part  of 
the  water  and  with  the  yeast,  which  has  been  dissolved  in  a 


NO.   186.      BREAD-PAS  WITH   CLOSE-FITTING   COVER. 

The  cover  excludes  the  air  from  the  dough,  so  no  crust  forms  while  it  is  rising. 


NO.   187.      STIRRED  BREAD. 


NO.    188.      WATKR  BREAD. 


NO.    189.      ROl'XD    I.OAF    AND    BAKING   TIN. 


NO.   100.      1.    L'NLKAVENKn   BHKAD  CHIPS.      2.    SCOTCH    OAT-CAKES. 


BKEADS  201 

little  water.  Stir  the  liquid  into  the  flour,  and  add  enough 
more  water  to  make  a  thick  batter.  Beat  it  for  some  time,  or 
until  it  is  well  mixed  and  the  batter  is  smooth.  Let  it  rise 
overnight.  Early  in  the  morning  stir  it  down,  and  turn 
it  into  the  pans.  Let  it  rise  in  the  pans  to  double  in  size, 
and  bake  for  one  hour.  The  above  quantities  will  make 
two  loaves. 

ROUND  LOAF  AND  BAKING  TIN 

Any  bread  mixture  may  be  baked  in  this  pan.  The  fancy 
form  is  its  only  recommendation.  Round  slices  are  attractive 
for  a  change,  and  made  into  toast  give  also  an  agreeable 
variety. 

The  pan  is  filled  barely  half  full  of  dough.  It  is  left  to 
rise  for  one  hour,  and  is  baked  for  one  hour. 


UNLEAVENED  BREAD-CHIPS 

Mix  into  a  quart  of  graham,  or  of  white,  or  of  whole  wheat 
flour  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  level  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt,  then  add  about  one  and  a  quarter  cupfuls  of  milk 
and  water,  half  and  half,  or  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough. 
Flour  the  molding-board  and  roll  the  mixture  thin,  fold  it 
together  twice  and  roll  it  again.  Again  fold  it,  and  again 
roll  it  very  thin.  Mark  it  off,  using  a  pastry-wheel,  into 
strips  one  quarter  of  an  inch  wide  and  four  to  five  inches 
long.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  or 
until  the  chips  are  cooked  through  and  are  brittle,  but  not 
very  brown. 

This  bread  is  recommended  for  dyspeptics  and  people  of 
delicate  digestion,  on  the  theory  that  the  yeast-plant  is  not 
thoroughly  destroyed  when  baking  bread,  and  that  it  con- 
tinues to  ferment  in  the  stomach. 


202  LUNCHEONS 

SCOTCH  OAT-CAKES 

These  cakes  should  be  made  of  meal  ground  finer  than 
any  we  are  able  to  get  in  our  markets;  therefore,  one  must 
resort  to  the  expedient  of  pounding  in  a  mortar  the  finest 
meal  obtainable,  and  sifting  it  through  a  coarse  mesh. 

Add  to  one  cupful  of  fine  meal  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
enough  hot  water  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Sift  some  of  the 
meal  on  to  the  molding-board,  and  roll  the  mixture  into 
a  thin  cake.  Bake  it  slowly  on  a  griddle  until  it  is  thoroughly 
dried. 

FULLED  BREAD 

Take  a  loaf  of  freshly  baked  bread.  Cut  through  the  crust 
around  the  loaf  at  intervals  of  two  inches,  then  pull  the 
thick  slices  apart.  Remove  the  crumb  from  the  crusts,  leav- 
ing it  in  ragged  pieces.  Place  it  in  a  slow  oven  to  color  and 
crisp,  turning  it  often  enough  to  have  it  dry  and"  color  on 
every  side. 

THE   BREAD-CUTTER 

The  bread-plane  can  be  adjusted  to  cut  slices  of  any  thick- 
ness. It  will  cut  fresh  bread  very  thin.  Bread  which  is  a 
day  old  it  will  cut  as  thin  as  lace.  For  cutting  bread  for 
sandwiches  it  is  especially  useful. 


LACE   TOAST   OR  ZWIEBACK 

Use  stale  bread,  and  with  the  bread-plane  shave  off  slices 
as  thin  as  lace.  Spread  the  slices  on  pans  and  place  them  in 
the  oven  for  a  minute  to  brown,  or  place  them  on  a  toaster  on 
top  of  the  range. 

It  will  take  but  a  minute  for  them  to  dry  and  take  an  even 
light-golden  color. 


NO.   191.      PULLED  BREAD. 


NO.   1942.      BREAD-PLANE. 


NO.    193.      LACE  TOAST  OR  ZWIEBACK. 


NO.   194.      SWISS  ROLLS  IX  THE  DOUGH. 


No.    1<»5.      SWISS   HOI.LS   BAKED. 


NO.   I'.it).      LUNCHEON   OK  UINNEU    HULLS   AND  13HAIDS  IN   THE  DOIGH. 


BREADS  203 

This  toast  can  be  served  with  soup,  or  at  any  time  in  place 
of  cracker  biscuits.  It  is  a  form  of  toast  much  liked  by  peo- 
ple who  do  not  eat  starchy  foods  and  so  abstain  from  bread. 

SWISS   ROILS 

Scald  one  cupful  of  milk  to  which  have  been  added  one 
tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter. 
AVhen  it  has  partly  cooled  add  one  half  a  cake  of  compressed 
yeast.  Stir  in  well  about  three  quarters  of  a  quart  of  flour. 
Put  it  in  a  moderately  warm  place  to  rise.  \Vhen  it  is  light, 
place  it  in  the  ice-box  for  at  least  three  hours,  or  over- 
night. "When  ready  to  use,  turn  the  raised  dough  on  a  well- 
floured  board,  and  roll  it  to  a  half-inch  thickness.  Spread 
the  top  with  butter,  and  roll  the  sheet  of  dough  like  a  jelly- 
cake  roll.  See  illustration  No.  194.  Cut  from  the  end  of  the 
roll  slices  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

Place  the  slices  in  pans,  leaving  plenty  of  room  between 
each  one,  so  they  will  not  touch  in  rising.  Let  them  rise 
slowly  until  they  are  very  light,  and  more  than  doubled  in 
size.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  about  twenty  minutes. 

LUNCHEON  OR  DINNER  ROLLS,  BRAIDS,  TWISTS 

For  these  rolls,  any  bread  dough  may  be  used.  In  order 
to  get  the  pieces  of  uniform  size,  mold  the  dough  into  a  roll 
about  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter.  Cut  the  roll  into 
pieces  one  and  a  half  inches  long,  giving  pieces  the  size  of  an 
egg,  or  make  the  pieces  larger,  if  desired.  Turn  each  piece 
into  a  ball,  and  then,  using  both  hands,  roll  it  into  shape, 
making  a  roll  which  is  thick  in  the  center  and  pointed  at 
each  end.  See  illustration  No.  196. 

Place  the  rolls  in  pans,  giving  them  sufficient  room  to  rise 
without  touching.  When  they  have  a  little  more  than 
doubled  in  size,  brush  the  tops  with  beaten  egg  diluted  with 


204  LUNCHEONS 

a  little  milk.  Bake  them  in  a  quick  oven  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes. 

For  making  braids,  roll  the  dough  into  pencil-shaped  pieces 
about  half  an  inch  in  diameter  and  five  inches  long.  Brush 
each  one  with  melted  butter.  Press  the  ends  of  three  pieces 
together  and  braid  them.  Let  them  rise  to  double  in  size, 
brush  the  tops  with  egg  and  milk,  and  bake  for  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes. 

Twists  are  made  the  same  as  braids,  using  two  instead  of 
three  pieces  of  dough. 

STRIPED  BREAD  AND  BUTTER 

FOR  FIRST  COURSE  WITH  OYSTERS  AND  CLAMS  ON  THE 

HALF  SHELL.    FOR  FISH  AND  SALAD  COURSES, 

ALSO  FOR  AFTERNOON  TEA 

Cut  white  and  any  kind  of  brown  bread  into  slices  from 
three  eighths  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  Spread  each  slice 
generously  with  butter  which  is  soft  enough  to  spread  easily. 
Lay  the  slices  together  in  alternating  colors,  two  buttered 
sides  coming  together  in  each  layer.  When  the  pile  of  but- 
tered slices  is  three  and  a  half  to  four  inches  high,  cut  it  into 
good  shape,  removing  the  crusts.  Place  the  bread  between 
two  plates  under  a  light  weight  and  set  it  into  the  ice-box  to 
harden  the  butter.  When  ready  to  serve,  cut  it  into  slices 
about  as  thick  as  the  original  slices,  and  then  into  strips. 

CHECKERED  BREAD  AND  BUTTER 

Cut,  one  inch  thick,  three  slices  each  of  white  and  of 
brown  bread.  Spread  a  slice  of  the  white  bread  with  a  thick 
layer  of  soft  butter.  Lay  on  it  a  buttered  slice  of  brown 
bread,  placing  the  buttered  sides  together.  Cover  the  top 
of  the  brown  slice  with  butter,  and  lay  on  it  a  buttered  slice 


BREADS  205 

of  white  bread,  the  buttered  sides  together.  You  have  now 
three  layers  of  bread,  with  the  brown  slice  in  the  middle. 
Repeat  the  operation,  reversing  the  order  of  the  white  and 
brown  slices.  Trim  the  two  piles  evenly,  and  place  them 
in  the  ice-box  under  a  light  pressure.  When  the  butter  is 
well  hardened,  cut  slices  an  inch  thick  from  the  ends  of 
both  piles.  Butter  these  slices  as  before,  placing  two  buttered 
sides  together,  and  arrange  them  so  that  the  colors  will  al- 
ternate in  squares. 

The  hardened  butter  holds  the  pieces  together,  and  if  the 
slices  are  evenly  cut,  a  checkered  square  of  bread  will  be  the 
result. 

Put  the  bread  and  butter  under  a  light  pressure  in  the  ice- 
box, and  when  ready  to  serve  cut  it  into  thin  slices. 

BREAD  AND  BUTTER  SANDWICHES 

It  is  difficult  to  butter  very  thin  slices  of  bread  unless  the 
butter  is  soft.  It  is  well,  when  making  plain  bread  and  butter 
sandwiches,  to  whip  the  butter  until  it  is  light,  soft,  and 
smooth,  and  then  to  spread  but  one  piece  of  the  sandwich. 
Where  filling  is  used  it  is  not  necessary  to  butter  the  bread, 
as  oil  or  butter  is  used  in  the  paste. 

No.  1.  In  circles  with  nuts.  Thin  slices  of  buttered  Boston 
brown  bread,  or  of  graham  bread,  cut  with  a  biscuit- 
cutter  into  circles  one  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter. 
The  meat  of  one  half  of  an  English  walnut  is  placed 
on  the  top  of  each  one  and  held  in  place  with  a  little 
butter. 

No.  2.  Brown  and  white  bread  combined.  Cut  into  circles  two 
and  a  half  inches  or  less  in  diameter  thin  slices  of 
brown  and  white  bread.  Use  a  buttered  round  of 
brown  and  of  white  bread  for  each  sandwich. 


206  LUNCHEONS 

ROLLED   OR  MOTTO  SANDWICHES 

For  rolled  sandwiches  the  bread  should  be  very  fresh 
and  moist,  and  entirely  free  from  crust.  As  it  is  difficult  to 
cut  fresh  bread  with  a  knife,  use  a  loaf  which  is  a  day  old 
if  a  bread-plane  is  not  at  hand.  Cut  it  into  slices  one  eighth 
of  an  inch  thick,  using  a  sharp  knife.  It  will  cut  easier  if  the 
crust  is  first  removed  from  the  loaf.  Arrange  the  slices 
in  a  pile  and  cut  them  all  together  into  good  shape.  "Wrap 
the  bread  in  a  wet  cloth  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for 
two  hours.  The  bread  will  then  be  moist  and  pliable  enough 
to  roll  without  breaking.  The  slices  may  be  simply  buttered, 
or  they  may  be  spread  with  any  mixture  desired.  If  meat 
or  fish  is  used,  it  should  be  reduced  to  paste  by  chopping 
and  pounding,  and  be  well  seasoned.  (See  "Century  Cook 
Book,"  page  364.)  Use  some  butter  or  oil  in  the  mixture, 
so  the  slices  will  not  need  to  be  buttered.  Spread  the  slices 
with  the  paste  and  roll  them  carefully,  then  roll  each  one  in 
a  piece  of  paraffin  paper,  cut  long  enough  to  wrap  the 
sandwich  one  and  a  half  times,  and  wide  enough  to  extend 
an  inch  over  each  end.  Twist  the  ends  of  the  paper. 

Keep  the  sandwiches  in  the  ice-box  until  ready  to  use,  and 
serve  them  with  the  papers  on.  Wrapped  sandwiches  will 
keep  fresh  for  forty-eight  hours.  They  are  especially  suita- 
ble for  travelers  and  for  picnics. 

LETTUCE   SANDWICHES 

Cut  fresh  bread  into  slices  a  little  more  than  one  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  using  the  bread-plane  if  convenient. 
Arrange  the  slices  in  a  pile,  and  cut  the  bread  into  a  shape 
about  four  by  four  and  a  half  inches.  This  removes  the 
crusts  and  leaves  all  the  slices  of  exactly  the  same  size.  Uni- 
formity in  size  and  shape  is  one  of  the  points  to  observe  in 
making  sandwiches.  Spread  the  slices  lightly  with  butter 


NO.   197.      LUNCHEON  OK  DINNER  ROLLS  AND   TWISTS  BAKED. 


NO.   198.      SODA   BISCUITS   CUT   WITH   FLUTED    STAMP. 


NO.   199.      STRIPED  BREAD  AND  BUTTER. 


NO.   200.     CHECKERED  BREAD  AND   BUTTER. 


NO.   201.      BREAD   AND   KUTTER  SANDWICHES*. 

1.    CIRCLES   OF  BUOWN  BREAD   WITH   NUTS.      2.    CIRCLES  OF  BROWN  AND 
WHITE   BREAD  COMBINED. 


NO.   -2(f2.      1.    LETTUCE   SANDWICHES.      ~i.    ROLLED   OK  MOTTO   SANDWICHES. 


BREADS  207 

which  is  soft  enough  to  spread  evenly  without  tearing  the 
bread.  Place  on  each  buttered  slice  a  leaf  of  crisp  lettuce 
which  is  large  enough  to  extend  a  little  over  the  ends  of  the 
slice,  and  from  which  the  midrib  has  been  removed.  Sprinkle 
the  lettuce  plentifully  with  salt.  Roll  the  slices  carefully, 
and  tie  around  each  one  a  piece  of  paper  the  width  of  the 
bread. 

At  the  time  of  serving,  this  paper  is  removed  and  the 
butter  will  then  be  sufficiently  hardened  to  keep  the  rolls 
in  shape. 

Place  the  sandwiches  on  a  plate,  cover  them  with  a  wet 
napkin,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve. 
In  this  way  sandwiches  may  be  kept  fresh  for  twenty-four 
hours. 

SANDWICH  FILLINGS 

Chicken  and  celery.  Chop  chicken  and  celery  in  equal 
quantities  until  they  are  very  fine.  Mix  them  to  a  paste  with 
mayonnaise. 

Egg  filling.  Chop  hard-boiled  eggs  until  very  fine  and  mix 
them  to  a  paste  with  plain  French  dressing,  or  with  mayon- 
naise. 

Ham  filling.  Put  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, one  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Beat  them  together,  and  add 
slowly,  stirring  all  the  time,  three  quarters  of  a  cupful  of  hot 
vinegar.  Place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  a 
little  thickened,  then  add  one  cupful  of  minced  ham  and  two 
thirds  of  a  cupful  of  tender  celery,  also  chopped  very  fine. 
Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

This  preparation  can  be  kept,  to  use  as  needed,  if  put  into 
preserve  glasses  and  covered  with  melted  butter  or  lard. 


208  LUNCHEONS 

SANDWICHES 

MADE  OF  CUCUMBER,  EGG,  CHEESE,  WATERCRESS,  PATE 

DE    FOIE    GRAS,    CHICKEN,    FISH    OR    MEATS, 

NASTURTIUM  FLOWERS,  OLIVES,  NUTS, 

JAMS  OR  JELLIES 

Cut  the  bread  into  slices  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
remove  the  crust  as  directed  above.  The  filling  of  a  sand- 
wich should  be  as  thick  as  one  of  the  slices  of  bread.  After 
the  sandwiches  are  prepared,  using  the  whole  slices,  cut  them 
into  the  shapes  desired.  This  may  be  small  squares,  fingers, 
triangles,  circles,  or  hearts,  as  the  fancy  or  occasion  dictates. 
Where  a  variety  of  sandwiches  are  being  served  at  the  same 
time,  each  variety  should  be  cut  alike,  but  of  a  different 
pattern  from  the  others,  and  the  dish  garnished  distinctively. 
For  instance,  a  hard-boiled  egg  cut  lengthwise,  a  square  of 
cheese,  a  few  olives,  nuts,  flowers,  or  whatever  the  filling 
used,  can  be  placed  in  the  center  of  the  plate,  and  the  sand- 
wiches arranged  in  a  circle  around  it.  A  wishbone  makes 
a  good  label  for  chicken,  and  parsley  or  gherkins  would 
indicate  meat  mixtures.  The  brown  breads  make  excellent 
sandwiches,  and  help  to  give  variety.  Cucumbers  sliced,  and 
watercress  freed  from  the  large  stems,  may  be  mixed  with 
French  dressing  before  being  placed  in  the  bread,  or  they 
may  be  only  salted. 

Nasturtium  flowers  require  no  seasoning. 

Olives  and  nuts  are  sliced  or  cut  into  small  pieces,  but 
should  not  be  cut  very  fine,  as  it  injures  their  flavor. 

Cheese  may  be  sliced  or  grated. 

See  "Century  Cook  Book,"  page  364,  for  further  direc- 
tions about  mixtures  for  fillings. 

When  the  sandwiches  are  finished  they  should  be  placed 
between  plates  under  a  light  weight,  covered  with  a  damp 
cloth,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place  until  the  time  of  serving. 


NO.   203.      SANDWICHES. 

1.  ROLLED  SANDWICHES  FILLED  WITH  STRIPS  OF  CELERY. 

2.  HEART-SHAPED    SANDWICHES    FILLED     WITH     CHOPPED     GREEN    PEPPERS     AND 

MAYONNAISE. 

3.  HAM  SANDWICHES  CUT  TO  THE  SHAPE  OF  PLATING-CARDS  AND  DECORATED  WITH 

PICKLED  BEETS  TO  IMITATE  THE  THREE    AND    FOUR    SPOTS    OF    HEARTS    AND 
CLUBS. 

4.  CHICKEN  SANDWICHES  STAMPED  WITH  CLUB-  AND  SPADE-SHAPED  CUTTERS. 

Nos.  3  and  4  are  novelties  to  serve  at  card-parties. 


NO.   204.      SANDWICHES  OF  VARIOUS  SHAPES. 


NO.   205.      TOASTED   CHEESE   SANDWICHES. 


NO.   206.      LOAF   OF   UKIOCHE. 


BREADS  209 

Sandwiches  prepared  for  a  traveler's  luncheon  should  tie 
made  a  little  thicker  and  larger  than  directed  above,  as  they 
must  be  hearty  enough  to  constitute  a  meal.  If  wrapped  in 
paraffin  paper,  they  will  keep  fresh  for  a  long  time. 

TOASTED   CHEESE   SANDWICHES 

Make  a  filling  of  grated  cheese,  toast  the  sandwiches  on 
both  sides,  and  serve  them  hot. 

Many  kinds  of  sandwiches  may  be  toasted.  Sandwiches 
left  over  may  be  utilized  in  this  way. 

BRIOCHE 

Brioche  is  a  light  bun.  The  mixture  is  also  used  for  sav- 
arins  and  babas.  See  page  147. 

Make  a  leaven  as  follows: 

Add  to  a  cupful  of  tepid  milk  a  yeast-cake  and  half  a 
pound  of  flour.  Mix  it  well  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
until  it  is  very  light.  It  will  take  about  an  hour. 

Sift  on  to  a  rolling-board  one  pound  of  flour,  and  make 
a  well  in  the  center.  Break  seven  eggs  into  a  bowl,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  beat  the  eggs  enough  to  break  them 
thoroughly.  Cut  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  into 
pieces. 

Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar  into  the  well  of  flour,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  some 
of  the  broken  eggs.  Work  all  these  together  with  the  hand, 
incorporating  the  flour  gradually.  Add  the  eggs  and  butter 
gradually  until  all  are  worked  in,  and  continue  the  working 
for  some  time,  then  add  the  leaven  and  work  the  whole  mix- 
ture for  a  long  time,  or  until  it  does  not  stick.  Set  it  aside 
to  rise  and  double  in  size,  work  it  again,  and  put  it  in  the 
ice-box  for  twrelve  hours. 

14 


210  LUNCHEONS 

TO   MAKE  A  LOAF   OF  BRIOCHE 

Mold  the  brioche  dough  into  a  round  ball.  Place  it  in  a 
pan,  make  a  depression  in  the  top  with  the  hand,  brush  it 
with  egg  diluted  with  a  little  milk,  and  put  into  it  a  small 
ball  of  dough.  Cut  slits  around  the  large  ball.  Let  it  rise, 
then  bake  it  in  a  hot  oven. 

CORN-MUFFINS 

1|  cupfuls  of  white  flour, 

1|  cupfuls  of  yellow  meal, 

£  cupful  of  sugar, 

2  cupfuls  of  milk, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 

\  tablespoonful  of  salt, 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 

2  eggs. 

Put  a  cupful  of  milk  in  a  saucepan  011  the  fire  and  let  it 
come  to  the  scalding-point,  then  stir  in  the  corn-meal,  and 
continue  to  stir  until  the  meal  is  thoroughly  expanded.  If 
a  coarse  meal  is  used,  it  should  cook  for  a  few  minutes  to 
destroy  the  grainy  texture.  Remove  the  meal  from  the  fire 
and  stir  into  it  the  butter  and  the  sugar.  Let  it  stand  until 
cool,  then  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  the  eggs,  which  have  been 
beaten  (yolks  and  whites  together),  the  salt,  and  lastly  the 
flour,  which  has  been  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  baking- 
powder  by  sifting.  Stir  the  mixture  to  smoothness  and  turn 
it  into  well-buttered  gem-pans.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  forty-five  minutes. 

Corn-meal  should  be  thoroughly  cooked,  and  the  baking 
can  be  continued  until  the  muffins  draw  away  from  the  sides 
of  the  pans.  The  baking  should  be  slow  at  first,  so  the 
muffins  will  rise  evenly,  giving  a  flat  top.  This  quantity  of 
mixture  will  make  one  dozen  large  muffins. 


NO.   207.      CORNMEAL  MUFFINS. 


NO.   208.      CHEESE-CRACKERS. 


BEE  ADS 

The  receipt  may  be  modified  by  using  less  sugar  or  less 
butter,  or  by  changing  the  proportions  of  meal  and  flour. 

CHEESE-CRACKERS 

Spread  any  biscuits  with  butter,  and  put  them  in  the  oven 
to  brown  slightly.  As  soon  as  they  are  removed  from  the 
oven  cover  them  with  grated  cheese,  let  them  stand  a  few 
minutes,  then  shake  off  all  the  cheese  that  does  not  stick. 

Saltine  biscuits  are  especially  good  to  use  with  cheese. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


Anchovy  canapes,  41 

Eggs,  40 

Apple  and  celery  salad,  121 
Apple  pudding,  jellied,  146 
Apple  salad,  individual,  122 
Apples,  baked,  141 

Eichelieu,  140 

Stewed,  No.  1,  140 

No.  2,  141 
Apricots,  compote  of,  142 

Water-ice,  170 
Aspic  of  chicken,  125 

Of  pate  de  foie  gras,  126 

Of  vegetables,  120 

B 

Babas,  147 
Baked  apples,  141 

Bananas,  138 

Fillets  of  fish  with  sauce,  66 

Hominy,  96 

Mushrooms,  79 

Quinces,   138 

Sweetbreads,  73 

Tomatoes  and  fontage  cups, 
Bananas,  baked,  No.  1,  138 
No.  2,  138 

And  cream,  143 

Sauted,  138 


Bavarian    cream    sliced    and    gar- 
nished with  cream-cakes,  153 
Bean  croquettes,  98 
Beaten  omelet,  52 
Beef  consomme,  45 

Casserole,  85 
Boiled  ham,  No.  1,  128 
No.  2,  128 

Icing,  192 

Lettuce,  96 
Boned  ham,  129 
Braids,  203 
Brandy  peaches,  109 
Bread  braids,  203 
Bread  and  butter,  checkered,  204 

Sandwiches,     brown    and    white 
combined,  205 

Sandwiches  in  circles  with 
nuts,  205 

Sandwiches,  remarks  about,  205 

Striped,  204 
Bread-cutter,   202 
Bread  and  jam  tartlets,  143 

Pulled,  202 

Round  loaf  of,  201 

Stirred,  199 
81          Twists,  203 

Unleavened,   201 

Water,  200 

Whole  wheat,  200 
Brioche,  209 
215 


216 


INDEX 


Brioche,  loaf  of,  210 

Eemarks  about,  209 

To  make,  209 
Broiled  lobster,  63 

Quails,  115 

Shad  roe,  64 

Smelts,  64 

Tomatoes,  97 
Browned  sauce,  102 
Burning  cherries,   140 

Peaches,  140 
Butter,  maitre  d 'hotel,  104 

Ways  of  preparing,  31 

Icing,  94 

C 

Cabbage  salad,  122 
Cafe  frappe,  171 
Cake,  cocoanut,   182 
Cake-basket  holding  meringue 

mushrooms,  185 
Cake,  chocolate,  182 
Decorated  in  two  shades  of 
white,  184 

With  candied  rose-leaves,  185 
With  pink  bow-knot,   184 
With  tutti  fr'-'      icing,  195 
With   candied   violets,    185 
Gingerbread,   179 

With  chocolate  glaze,  179 
With     icing     and     preserved 

ginger,  180 

With   whipped   cream,    180 
Jelly-roll,   185 
Orange,  in  crescents,  181 
In  layers,  181 
No.  2,  or  plain  cup,  181 
Strawberry,  No.  1,  162 

No.  2,  162 

Cakes,  cream,  how  to  make,  188 
Iced,  189 


Cakes,  cherry,  187 

Cup,  181 

Decorated  with  flower  design, 
186 

Daisy,  186 

Domino,  187 

Hemispheres,    187 

Marble,  187 

Meringue  mushrooms,  189 

Meringues,  cocoanut,  190 

Pastry  fingers,  191 

With  medallion  of  fruit,  186 
Calf's  brains  a  1'aurore,  75 

A  la  poulette,  75 

To  prepare,   75 

With  black  butter,  76 

With  hollandaise,   76 
Canapes,  anchovy,  41 

Of  caviare,  41 

Of  salmon,  40 
Caramel  icing,  193 
Casserole  of  beef,  85 

Of  chicken,  No.  1,  99 

No.  2,  99 
Celery,  cream  of,  48 

Sandwiches,  207 
Charlotte  russe,  strawberry,  No.  1, 

150 

No.  2,  150 

Checkered  bread  and  butter,  204 
Cheese-crackers,  211 
Cheese,  cream,  with  Bar-le-duc 
currants,  131 

Croquettes,  109 

Patties,  110 

Sandwiches,  toasted,  209 
Cherries,  176 

Burning,  140 
Cherry-cakes,  187 
Chestnut  bavarian,  149 

Puree,  148 


INDEX 


217 


Chestnut  salad,  124 
Chicken  aspic,  125 

Casserole,  99 

Consomme,  46 

En  surprise,  101 

Fried  in  cream,  100 

Joints,  100 

Mousse,  126 

Salad,  123 

Smothered,  100 

Timbales,  77 
Chocolate  bread  pudding,  136 

Cake,  182 

Cream,  153 

Icing,  194 

Sauce  for  ice  cream,  167 

Sponge,  153 
Clam  broth,  46 

Bisque,  46 

Cocktails,  39 
Clams,  cream  of,  47 

On  the  half  shell,  41 
Cocoanut-cake,  182 
Cocoanut  cream-cake,  183 

Meringues,  190' 

Pie,  160 

Pudding,  136 
Coffee  mousse,  147 
Cold  cut  meats,  127 
Cold  fish,  garnished,  129 

Halibut,  191 
Cornmeal  muffins,  210 
Cold  dishes,  20 

Service,  125 

Slaw,  61 
Compote  of  apricots,  142 

Of  figs,  142 

Of  pears,  142 
Consomme  of  beef,  45 

Of  chicken,  46 
Coquilles  of  sweetbreads,  74 


Corn  starch  puddings,  144 
Cottage  pie,  90 
Cranberry  pie,  160 
Cream-cakes,  188 

How  to  make,  188 

Iced,  189 

Little,  with  caramel  icing,  189 

With  jam  and  whipped  cream, 

189 

Cream  cheese  with  Bar-le-duc  cur- 
rants, 131 

Dressing,  116 
Cream  of  celery,  48 

Of  clams,  47 

Of  oysters,  47 

Of  spinach,  48 
Creamed  egg  baskets,  54 

Fish  garnished  with  potatoes,  67 

Lobster,  63 

Poached  eggs,  54 
Croquettes,  76 

Of  beans,  98 

Of  cheese,  109 

Of  farina,  135 

Of  shad  roe,  64 
Crystal  icing,  193 
Cup-cake,  181 

Cup-cakes  with  flower  design,  186 
Currant  pie,  160 

Shortcake,  162 
Currants,  38 

Frosted,  38 

On  individual  plates,  38 

D 

Daisy  cakes,  186 
Dinner  rolls,  203 
Dishing  and  garnishing,  7 
Domino  cakes,  187 
Dressing,  cream,  116 


218 


INDEX 


Dressing,  French,  115 
Mayonnaise,  116 

E 

Eggs,  anchovy,  40 
A  1'aurore,  57 
A  la  Komaine,  53 
Baked  in  green  peppers,  53 

In  tomatoes,  53 
Farci,  No.  1,  56 

No.  2,  56 
In  nests,  55 

Poached  and  creamed,  54 
Remarks  about,  51 
Scrambled  with  tomatoes,  54 
Spanish,  56 
To  poach,  51 

In  French  style,  51 
To  scramble,  51 
With  giblet  sauce,  57 
Entrees,  69 


Farina  croquettes,  135 

Fig  pudding,  136 

Figs,  compote  of,  142 

Fillets  of  beef,  remarks  about,  85 

With  tomatoes,  86 

And  mushrooms,  87 
Fillets  of  fish,  baked,  66 

Fried,  65 

Eemarks  about,  65 

With  mushrooms,  67 
Fillets  of  flounder,  65 
Fillings  for  sandwiches,  207 
Fish  a  la  Japonnaise,  67 

Cold,  li>9 

Creamed  and  garnished  with  po- 
tatoes, 67 

Cutlets,  cold,  130 


Fish,  halibut,  cold,  131 

In  the  garden,  130 
Fontage  cups,  30 
Forcemeat,  101 
Frangipane  tartlets,  158 
French  dressing,  115 

Omelet,  52 
Fried  fillets  of  fish,  65 

Oysters  with  cold  slaw,  61 

Scallops,  62 
Frosted  currants,  38 
Frozen  punches,  109 
Fruit  souffles,  139 

Tartlets,  159 
Fruits,  cherries,  176 

Currants,  38 

Pears,  176 

Pineapples,  175 

Salpicon  of,  37 

G 

Galettes,  190 
Garnishing,  7 
Garnished  cold  fish,  129 
Gingerbread  with  chocolate  glaze, 
179 

With  icing  and  preserved  ginger, 
180 

With  whipped  cream,  180 
Glaze,  104 
Glazed  tongue,  127 
Gnocchi  a  la  Franchise,  111 

A    I'ltalienne,    110 

X  la  Eomaine,  110 
Grape-fruit  in  glasses,  37 
Green-gage  pudding,  137 
Green  pepper  sandwiches,  208 

H 

Ham,  boiled,  128 
Boned,  129 
And  eggs,  minced,  92 


INDEX 


219 


Hard  sauce,  105 
Hemisphere  cakes,  187 
Hollandaise  sauce,  103 
Horseradish  sauce,  88 
Huckleberry  pudding,  135 


Ice  cream,  peach,  169 
Melon,  168 
Plain,  167 
Strawberry,  168 
Icing,  boiled,  192 
Butter,  194 
Caramel,  193 
Chocolate,  194 
Confectioners'  sugar,  191 

Orange,  191 

Pink,  192 

Pistache,  192 

Wine,  192 

Yellow,  191 
Crystal,  193 
Mocha  cream,  194 
Powdered  sugar,  193 
Tutti  frutti,  195 
Whipped  cream,  193 

With  maple  sugar,  193 
Individual  currants,  38 
Pineapple,  38 


Jalousies,  159 
Jam  tart,  157 
Jardiniere,  81 
Jellied  cutlets,  130 
Jelly-roll,  185 


Lace  toast,  202 

Leg  of  mutton  a  la  jardiniere,  89 
Slices  a  la  jardiniere,  90 


Lemon  water-ice,  169 
Lettuce,  boiled,  96 

And  nasturtium  salad,   118 

Sandwiches,  206 
Liquid  sauces,  105 
Liver  loaf  or  timbale,  127 

Timbales,  78 
Lobster,  broiled,  63 

Creamed,  63 

M 

Macedoine  water-ice,  171 
Maitre  d 'hotel  butter,  103 
Maple  icing,  193 

Sauce  for  ice  cream,  168 
Marble  cakes,  187 
Mayonnaise  dressing,  116 
Measures  and  terms,  32 
Meat  and  potato  pie,  91 

Sauces,  102 
Meats,  cold,  127 
Medallion  cakes,  186 
Melon  ice  cream,  168 
Meringue   cream  tart,   152 

Crown,  152 

Mushrooms,  189 

King,  151 

Meringues     filled     with     whipped 
cream  or  ice  cream,  153 

How  to  make,  150 
Minced  ham  and  eggs,  92 

Meat  with  potato  rings,  91 
Mocha  cream  icing,  194 
Motto  sandwiches,  206 
Mousse,  chicken,  126 

Coffee,  147 

Peach,  148 

Muffins,  cornmeal,  210 
Mushrooms,  baked,  79 

Of  meringue,  189 

Stuffed,  79 


220 


INDEX 


Muskmelon,  39 

Mutton  chops  a  la  soubise,  87 

Boned,  with  artichokes,  88 
With  mushrooms,  89 

With  horseradish  sauce,  88 


Omelet,  beaten,  52 

Chasseur,  53 

Plain  French,  52 
Orange-cake  in  crescents,  181 

In  layers,  181 
Orange  icing,  191 

Water-ice,  170 
Oranges,  37 
Oyster  cocktails,  39 
Oysters  a  la  Newburg,  62 

Cream  of,  47 

Fried,  with  cold  slaw,  61 

On  the  half  shell,  41 

Sauted,  61 


Panned  chicken,  100 
Pastry-bag,  30 
Pastry  fingers,  191 

Burning,   140 
Peaches,  brandy,  109 

And  cream,  143 
Peach  ice  cream,  169 

Mousse,  148 

Pudding,  145 
Pears,  176 

Compote  of,  142 
Pie,  cottage,  90 

Cranberry,  160 

Currant,  160 

Meat  and  potato,  91 
Pineapple,  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  175 

Individual,  38 


Pineapple  pudding,  146 

Water-ice,  170 
Pine  cones,  144 
Pink  icing,  192 
Pistache  icing,  192 
Plain  French  omelet,  52 
Playing-card  sandwiches,  208 
Poached  eggs,  51 

In  French  style,  51 

With  greens,  55 

Pork    tenderloins    with    fried    ap- 
ples, 94 
Potato  puree,  95 

Straws,  28 

Salad,  123 
Potatoes,  baked,  95 

Mashed,  27 

Puffed,  28 
Pudding,  chocolate  bread,  136 

Cocoanut,  136 

Cornstarch,  144 

Fig,  136 

Green-gage,  137 

Huckleberry,  135 

Jellied  apple,  146 

Peach,  145 

Pineapple,  146 

Sauces,  105 

Tapioca,  145 

With  prunes,  137 
Puff-paste,  how  to  make,  154 
Pulled  bread,  202 
Punches,  109 
Puree  of  chestnuts,  148 

Q 

Quails,  broiled,  115 

Eoasted,  115 

Quenelles  of  cornmeal,  96 
Quinces,  baked,  138 


INDEX 


221 


R 


Remarks  about  bread   and  butter 
sandwiches,  205 

Brioche,  209 

Fillets  of  fish,  65 

Sandwiches,  208 

Scallops,  62 

Soups,  45 

Rice  a  la  Milanese,  95 
Rice  prune  pudding,  146 
Rissoles,  71 
Roasted  quails,  115 
Rolled  fillets  of  flounder,  65 

Sandwiches,  206 
Rolls,  luncheon,  203 

Swiss,  203 


S 


Salad,  artichoke  bottoms,  119 
Asparagus  tips,  119 
Bouquet,  118 

Lettuce  and  tomato  and  eggs, 

119 

Cabbage,  122 
Celery  and  apple,  121 
Chestnut,  124 
Chicken,  123 

Cucumber  and  tomato,  120 
Daisy,  119 
Dressing,  cream,  116 

French,  115 

Mayonnaise,  116 
Fruits,  124 
Lettuce    and    hard    boiled    egg, 

118 

Lettuce  hearts,  118 
Mashed  potato,  123 
Plain  lettuce,  117 
Preparing,  116 


Salad,  remarks  about,  117 

Shad  roe,  123 

Tomato  and  green  pepper,  121 

Turnip  cups  with  celery,  121 

Vegetable,  120 
Salpicon,  72 

Of  fruits  in  glasses,  37 

On  glass  plate,  37 
Sandwiches,  bread  and  butter,  205 

Brown  and  white  bread,  205 

Celery,  207 

Fillings  for,  207 

Green  pepper,  208 

In  circles  with  nuts,  205 

Lettuce,  206 

Playing-card,  208 

Remarks  about,  205 

Rolled  or  motto,  206 

Toasted  cheese,  209 
Sauce,  brown,  102 

Hollandaise,  103 

Horseradish,  88 

Hot  chocolate,  167 

Hot  maple,  168 

Maitre  d' hotel,  103 

Soubise,  87 

Supreme,  102 

Tomato  puree,  103 

White,  102 
Sauted  bananas,  138 

Oysters,  61 
Savarins,  147 
Scallops,  fried,  62 

Remarks  about,  62 

On  the  shell,  63 
Scotch  oat-cakes,  202 
Scrambled  eggs  with  brains,  58 

With  tomato,  54 
Shad  roe,  broiled,  64 

Croquettes,  64 

Salad,  123 


222 


INDEX 


Shortcake,  currant,  162 
Smelts,  broiled,  64 
Smothered  chicken,  100 
Soubise  sauce,  87 
Souffles,  fruit  and  others,  139 

Eemarks  about,  139 

Strawberry,  139 
Soups,  remarks  about,  45 
Spanish  eggs,  56 
Spinach,  97 

Cream  of,  48 
Squabs,  115 
Stewed  apples,  140 
Strawberry  bavarian,  150 

Ice  cream,  168 

Souffle,  139 

Tartlets,  158 

Water-ice,  170 
Strawberry-cake,   162 
Strawberries  and  cream,  143 

On  individual  plates,  38 
Striped  bread  and  butter,  204 
Stuffed  green  peppers,  81 

Mushrooms,  79 

Tomatoes,  80 
Stuffing  for  tomatoes,  80 
Supreme  sauce,  102 
Sweetbreads,  baked,  73 

Coquilles  of,  74 

Glazed,  74 

Eemarks  about,  73 

To  prepare,  73 
Swiss  rolls,  203 


T 


Tapioca  pudding,  145 

With  prunes,  137 
Tart,  jam,  157 
Tartlet  shells,  how  to  make,  157 


Tartlets,  bread  and  jam,  143 

Frangipane,  158 

Fruit,  159 

Pine  cones,  144 

Strawberry,  158 
Terms,  32 

Timbale  of  liver,  cold,  127 
Timbales  of  chicken,  77 

Of  liver,  78 
Tomato  farci,  97 

And  green  pepper  salad,  121 

Puree,  103 

Tomatoes,  baked,  and  fontage 
cups,  81 

Broiled,  97 

Stuffed,  80 

Stuffing  for,  80 
Tongue,  glazed,  127 
Tutti  frutti  icing,  195 
Twists,  203 

U 


Veal  a  1'Italienne,  93 
Chops,  92 
Cutlets,  small,  93 
Grenadines  of,  94 
Vegetable  salad,  120 
Vegetables,  aspic  of,   120 
Vegetarian  dish,  82 
Vol-au-vent,  71 

W 

Water  bread,  209 
Water-ice,  apricot,  170 


INDEX  223 

Water-ice,  lemon,  169  Whole  wheat  bread,  200 

Macedoine,  171  Wine  icing,  192 

Orange,  170 

Pineapple,  170 

Strawberry,  170  Y 

Water-ices  in  general,  169 

Whipped  creani  icing,  193  Yellow  icing,  191 

White  sauce,  102 


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THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


Series  9482 


A     000  580  81 


